Aligning the walls in the apartment yourself: methods and step-by-step technologies

It may seem difficult to get the walls in your apartment perfectly straight, but with the right approach, you can do it yourself. There are techniques that can assist you in achieving a smooth, polished finish, regardless of the size or severity of your imperfections.

Various methods work well for varying degrees of wall imperfections, ranging from straightforward patching to extensive plastering. Choosing the right approach and applying it correctly are essential for achieving the best outcomes. You can confidently take on this project on your own by following this guide, which will take you step-by-step through the most efficient methods of wall alignment.

Uneven walls can be made flat and ready for painting or wallpapering with the correct supplies, equipment, and a little perseverance. To assist you in selecting the ideal option for your house, let’s examine the available options and the intricate procedures that underlie them.

Method	Description
Using Plaster	Apply plaster in layers to even out surface irregularities, ensuring a smooth finish.
Using Drywall	Attach drywall sheets to create a flat surface, ideal for severely uneven walls.
Using Putty	Apply putty to fill small cracks and smooth out minor imperfections.
Sanding	Sand the wall surface after applying plaster or putty to achieve a perfectly smooth finish.

When aligning walls in your apartment on your own, it’s critical to select the appropriate technique and adhere to a precise, methodical procedure. You don’t need to hire a contractor to get professional-looking results if you know the fundamentals, like the distinctions between wet and dry methods, and use the appropriate tools. With confidence, take on this DIY project with the help of this guide, which will walk you through the essential techniques and useful steps.

How to level the walls in the apartment with your own hands

The degree of wall irregularity determines which alignment technique is used. There are two primary methods for leveling walls that collapse (deviate from verticality), spiral, have bulges or depressions, differ in surface, or have uneven corners:

• plastering;
• installation of gypsum plasterboard sheets (GKL).

These techniques come in two varieties each. Therefore, either beacon strips or beacons are used during plastering (assuming the irregularities are not too large). You can quickly and easily create a smooth surface by using beacons. You can align small flaws or corners in the absence of beacons.

Another method for dry plastering (with GKL) is one of two approaches:

• gypsum plasterboard sheets are glued directly to the wall surface;
• a frame is made for fastening the GKL.

Puttying is required for painting or decorative plaster, regardless of how the gypsum plasterboard is fastened.

Applying putty to level the walls is the third primary technique. If you just need to carefully smooth the surface in order to glue wallpaper or apply a layer of paint, puttying is used. Additionally, pores can be sealed off or small flaws can be concealed with putty.

Prior to applying thin-layer decorative plaster, such as Venetian plaster, which demands an absolutely flat base surface, putty is frequently used.

Wall leveling methods

Dry plaster is not suitable for leveling external surfaces, such as house facades, because plasterboard sheets and gypsum cannot withstand moisture. Plastering is the only external leveling technique available out of all those on the list.

Whichever wall leveling technology you select, all operations must be carried out precisely to prevent the emergence of technological flaws.

Plastering walls

Plastering is generally a sequence of steps used to use hardening compounds to create a monolithic surface. The compounds are layered at a specific thickness over the prepared base. There is a maximum and minimum layer thickness for each composition; the mixture’s manufacturer will list these values on the package.

Material used for leveling walls

Plastering is typically done with compositions based on cement, gypsum, or lime to level a curved surface. In suburban wooden or adobe buildings, clay plaster is particularly frequently used for leveling. Mineral compositions are characterized by their accessibility and low cost. By paying attention to the component proportions, they can be made by hand.

Mineral solutions are not the only materials available for leveling walls, though. Mineral compositions are not used in newly constructed buildings because they cannot withstand the loads associated with shrinkage processes, vibrations from railroad tracks, or seismically active areas. Elastic mixtures, such as polymer, acrylic, or other elastic plasters, successfully replace them. Throughout operation, their high cost is justified.

Mixtures containing a cement binder are advised for leveling plastering on facades and in damp areas (like bathrooms). For interior applications, use simple compositions of lime or gypsum or more complex ones (lime-cement, gypsum-lime, etc.).

Manufacturers provide ready-made or dry mixtures in their lines that are specifically intended for wall or ceiling leveling. Selecting mixes from reputable companies is preferable when choosing from a wide range of options.

Plastering walls without installing beacons

If there is only a small amount of correction needed or the walls are nearly even, visual alignment of the walls is used. For instance, puttying or grinding utilizing a composition containing fine-grain filler is sufficient to simply smooth the walls in preparation for painting.

Plastering is leveled without beacons in situations where the layers being applied are relatively thin. Plastering requires experience, as it is much harder to achieve a smooth surface without beacons than with them. If you’ve never done plastering before, it’s best to hire an expert or use beacons to level the walls yourself. Using a level and a rule, the verticality and evenness of the surface are checked while plastering using this method.

Leveling plastering is done in multiple passes (layers are applied gradually) with varying compositions, whether beacons are used or not.

1. First, a layer of spray is applied – a solution similar in consistency to semi-liquid sour cream. It ensures adhesion to the base of subsequent compositions.
2. The next layer is the primer (or base). A solution of normal consistency. Depending on the total thickness of the leveling coating, it can be performed in several passes.
3. The top layer is called a cover. It is performed with a semi-liquid solution, the filler of which has only a fine fraction. This layer is not necessary if the subsequent (finishing) finishing does not require a perfectly smooth base.

The way the substance is applied gives rise to the term "splash." Skilled plasterers use a ladle to apply splash. A trowel can also be used to apply it. By moving the tool away from you, you can toss small portions of the mixture onto the base, causing the plaster "sour cream" to spread out and hit hard before sticking to the wall. There are no spaces left when applying splash.

Instead of being level, the splash’s surface is dotted with horizontal stripes created by the sharp edge of the spatula. This establishes more circumstances that promote adhesion. There may be variations in the splash’s thickness. A suitable layer of mortar is 10–12 mm for stonework or brick walls, and 15–18 mm for plastering a wooden base covered in shingles.

To prevent the spatter from flying to the sides, some artisans apply the spatter with a brush rather than a broad hand swing. If the base is relatively flat and does not have many differences, then a brush is used. Using a spatula, the "spatter" can also be "smeared." A part of the solution is gathered on the instrument and moved with light pressure in strokes onto the wall. Not a very smooth surface is produced.

Use a trowel (if the layer is thick) or a spatula to apply the primer after the spatter has completely dried. Using a rule or float, the layer’s surface is leveled. Sections of the project are plastered; each section is about one square meter in size. Areas where there is insufficient solution are quickly identified when applying a rule. They contain surplus solution that was taken out of the rule.

Using a corner spatula or other tools, the corners are leveled (the procedure is shown in the video).

A covering is not necessary if there is a decorative plaster or tiling finish. In this instance, a float or half-float is used to rub the surface of the final layer of soil in circular motions. Once the solution has solidified and is no longer sticking to the fingers, grouting is completed.

A covering (layer up to 2 mm) is applied to create a smooth surface. The surface is first wet, then a small amount of solution is applied and smoothed using a rounded-edge trowel or float. The float is pressed more firmly against the wall when the tool is run along the top of the layer, where there are convex areas; no pressure is applied over the depressions. The extra solution that builds up on the float is taken off.

In case the cover composition is made separately, the larger parts are sieved using a mesh that has particles as small as 1 mm.

Following a circular rubbing of the entire area, move on to longitudinal grouting, or rectilinear movements. In the first pass, it was vertical, and in the second, it was horizontal. Small pores are filled with milk mortar during the grouting process, and any protruding irregularities are removed using a tool.

Leveling walls with plaster according to beacons

Because beacon strips keep the finishing plane in place, even beginners can easily learn how to use this method.

Usually, the excess mortar that protrudes above the plane designated by the beacons is cut off with the tool’s edge while resting on the edges of two beacons.

Beacon strips can be formed from plaster, metal, wood, or plastic mortar. Standard metal strips measure at least 6 mm in height. Place beacons vertically on the wall. The outer beacons are positioned 20–30 cm away from the wall’s corners. Intermediate beacons are positioned in between the outer beacons, keeping a distance that does not exceed the rule’s length minus 20 cm (beginners typically find it easier to manage when the beacons are up to 1.5 m apart).

Since the tops of the beacons must be in a single vertical plane, their excess over the wall surface is maintained in addition to the distance between them. The wall’s geometry is first analyzed to identify its most prominent point, and then this plane is created. It is topped off with the minimum thickness of the plaster coating, which is the combined amount of soil and spray. When putting in the external beacons, this point serves as a reference.

There are several ways to go about this. Using a laser level to set up beacons is the easiest method. Use of mortar or support pads constructed from multiple plasterboard pieces is required to support the beacon strips on the wall. Plasterboard pieces are adhered to the base using a fast-drying adhesive solution (beacons are also fastened to the pads on it). To learn how to install beacons, watch the video.

Plaster layers are applied similarly to plastering without beacons (primer, cover, and spray). The layers are put in between the two neighboring beacons’ planks. The entire wall is sprayed with the spray in sequential order. Applying soil involves moving it in between two beacons. Using a trowel or spatula, the soil layer is slightly leveled if it is not thick enough to cover the beacons. Typically, the spray’s top doesn’t extend past the beacons.

They start to level the mixture with a rule when the upper soil layer’s applied solution rises 1.5–2 cm above the beacons. In order to accomplish this, the rule bar is positioned horizontally and moved vertically in zigzag patterns while resting on the beacons’ edges. In this instance, the excess plaster mixture that is visible above the planks is removed.

Using a spatula, the cut solution is scraped off the rule and placed in a container or applied to the areas that require more solution. To secure the composition and stop it from sliding, use the rule to make two to three movements from the bottom up and one cutting movement from the top down.

Plastering is applied in sections up to one meter high rather than immediately from bottom to top in the spaces between two lighthouses. Once one area has been leveled, apply the solution to the one next to it. In this manner, they plaster the space between two beacons section by section before moving on to plaster the space between the following pair of beacons. Plastering is applied last to corners.

The beacon strips are taken off once the soil has solidified, and the resulting grooves are filled with mortar and leveled using a spatula. Only mortar-made beacons don’t need to be taken down. The wall’s surface is rubbed once the composition has solidified in the grooves, either with or without coating.

Leveling walls with plasterboard – dry plaster

It would be a good idea to learn how to level walls without the use of plaster. Installing gypsum plasterboard sheets, or gypsum board, can sometimes level the surface much more quickly because it instantly sets the desired geometry. The original plasterboard geometry and proper installation ensure the evenness.

Installation of plasterboard without a frame

The owner of the apartment can save important floor space by aligning the walls by gluing plasterboard sheets without using a frame sheathing. Consequently, the task at hand becomes increasingly intricate. Beacons, typically made of plasterboard pieces, are especially important because the wall can go in a screw, be "falling" in one direction or another, and right angles between the walls cannot be maintained. The plasterboard sheathing sheet will rest upon them.

It can take a long time to create beacons. In order to secure a single beacon, they construct a sort of frame by gluing a stack of rectangles made of plasterboard, inserting wide-headed self-tapping screws, or driving slate nails in. All wall screw caps should rest in the same plane at their tops (verify using any method available). A mound of gypsum-adhesive composition forms a flat top around each such frame.

Next, one sheet at a time is installed, following a sequential procedure. The beacons are coated with adhesive composition, then covered with gypsum board and gently pressed.

If the wall is more level, an easier technique is employed. Following priming and drying, the base (or the attached sheet of plasterboard) is covered with an adhesive composition that is applied pointwise (in mounds). The sheet is placed over the beacons and pressed up against the wall while being watched for verticality. You can tap the sheet lightly to change the position. Using a level and a rule to press the sheet is preferable.

Finishing the installation of glue involves caulking the joints and getting the plasterboard ready for finishing. Once the adhesive composition has dried, the joints are sealed. You can find information on how to plaster plasterboard correctly in the article on plastering.

Video: Frameless installation technique

Frame method of installing drywall

Frame is the most widely used technique for leveling walls without plaster. This way, the room can be leveled, insulated, and the amount of incoming noise can be decreased—that is, if you are not ashamed of the method’s drawback of taking up at least 5 centimeters of space on each side. Plastering the base is not necessary; instead, the gap between the wall and the drywall can be readily filled with soundproofing or insulating material.

The process of preparing the base involves priming, drying, and removing the previous coating (if the building structures have significant flaws, like cracks, they will naturally "heal"). Select a priming solution that inhibits the growth of mold and other microbes. Should the walls be vulnerable to moisture due to groundwater rising through them, waterproofing and restoration work should be done.

Since they establish the plane of the future wall surface, profiles—typically made of metal—are used to create a frame. These profiles must be installed vertically and with extreme caution. Since GKL have a 1.2 m standard width, the profiles are mounted with a 60 cm axis-to-axis spacing. This configuration makes it easy to install insulating matting, and every drywall sheet is fastened in three places.

Standard frame profiles can have their verticality changed by directly suspending them from brackets. The latter’s design lets you change how far the profile is from the wall. The perfect plane formed by the drywall sheets screwed to the frame is established by the precise alignment of the frame. Following installation, putty and primer are applied to the tops of the sheets, and the gypsum board joints are sealed.

Alignment of the walls with putty

The application of putty can complete the wall surface alignment process. Because the leveling putty mixture has the least amount of filler, a layer of putty can create the smoothest surface. It is simple to apply and lay on any base and is flexible. It can even be applied in place of ornamental plaster.

Apply the putty with a wide spatula or trowel in a thin layer. The mass yields too easily to any touch from the tool because it is so sensitive to even the smallest pressure. Therefore, your hand needs to be "trained" in order to apply smoothly.

Typically, two passes are made when applying putty: one for the first layer and one for the second, using a starting and finishing mixture, respectively. Defects (furrows, irregularities) that arise during layer application are immediately leveled because putty hardens rapidly after setting.

Smoothness perfection is attained by grinding the final layer. Use a grinding machine or give it a manual rubdown for any grinding tasks. Use side lighting to draw attention to any irregularities.

Methods for determining surface unevenness

Measuring the unevenness allows one to assess its degree visually or quantitatively. You can determine the approximate volume of materials required and make a logical decision when selecting a correction method by knowing the size and type of deviations from the ideal geometric shape. How can the amount and unevenness of the wall surface be measured?

Use a long (2–2.5 m) even rail with a cross-section of 20 x 50 mm or a rule of the same length, along with a level or plumb line, to identify irregularities and their size. Observe the wall surface’s deviation from the plane by applying the rail to the wall in three different orientations: vertically, horizontally, and diagonally. Make use of a square or measuring tools (cord, tape measure) to ensure that the structures are perpendicular to the ceiling and to each other respectively.

Draw lines horizontally on the walls that make up the corner. Measure from one wall’s corner to the other: 2 m. The distance between the marked points, or the hypotenuse, forms the legs of a right triangle, with a length of 2.5 meters. An acute angle between the walls will be seen at a distance less or greater, respectively.

A plumb line or level is used to check verticality or fall. Using a laser level, you can quickly and simply complete this and earlier geometric checks.

Preparing surfaces for leveling

The primary techniques for leveling and calculating the surface’s curvature have already been discussed above, but preparatory work must be done before beginning any work.

It is impossible to overstate the significance of preparatory work since it has such a profound impact on the overall finishing complex’s quality. The first step in leveling the walls is to remove any decorative finishing, such as cladding, wallpaper, paint layers, or whitewash. The released surface is inspected both with a hand tool and visually. locating flaws in the layer of plaster.

After determining the type of deviations, they start the first correction. Overly large protrusions or bulges are removed if the plaster coating is sound and free of flaws. The coating is removed to the base if there are numerous flaws and it is deemed inappropriate.

Brick, precast or monolithic reinforced concrete, wood, stone, or cellular concrete blocks can all be used to construct walls. A portion of the preparatory work that strengthens the bond is determined by the type of wall material (adhesion). For instance, to ensure strong mortar adhesion to smooth concrete, expansion of joints (deepening by 0.5–1.0 cm) and notches in concrete surfaces are necessary for stone or brick masonry.

On wooden surfaces, laths are nailed or wire mesh is fastened. Because plastering produces a coating with a significant dead weight, adhesion-boosting measures cannot be disregarded.

Another step in the preparation process is to clean the base of any stains. Oil-related stains need to be degreased. Mold, rot, and fungus are removed with a scraper, cleaned, and treated with an antibiotic.

There are distinct methods for removing soot, rust, and efflorescence. All superfluous metal components are taken out of the wall and the remaining ones are insulated, like with oil paint, to stop new rust from developing. High-quality wall waterproofing is done to stop efflorescence.

Hidden wiring is de-energized while interior work is being done. Simultaneously, sockets and switches are frequently changed; that is, outdated covers are taken off, wire ends are insulated, and masking tape is used to seal the boxes while plastering is being done. New electrical appliances are installed once all finishing touches have been applied.

The base’s chips, cracks, and other flaws are fixed. Dust is removed from the base’s surface. A primer that complements the plaster mortar and wall material is applied. Beacon installation and reinforcement are additional preparatory tasks. The base needs to be dried in addition to being cleaned.

Staged preparatory work:

• removing old coating;
• cleaning base;
• repairing defects;
• applying primer;
• drying;
• reinforcement;
• installation of beacons.

What is needed to level walls

Setting up the required supplies, equipment, and tools is necessary for wall alignment.

To plaster, you will require:

• trowel or float;
• spatulas of different sizes;
• grater or half-grater;
• rule;
• paint brush (for wetting and priming);
• mixer;
• roller;
• level;
• tape measure;
• masking tape;
• string;
• containers;
• beacon strips;
• jointing or a tool to replace it;
• hammer and hacksaw (for stuffing shingles);
• clean rags.

Moreover, a tool might be necessary to scrape off outdated plaster.

You will need scaffolding or platforms, as well as a canopy to shield the solution from the sun and precipitation, for exterior plastering projects. For interior finishing – scaffolding and a stepladder.

Among consumables, you should have plenty of:

• plaster mixtures (or their components when preparing the composition yourself);
• primer;
• lath (for plastering wooden structures);
• reinforcing mesh;
• fastening elements (nails for stuffing lath, self-tapping screws, dowels for fixing the mesh).

Although aligning the walls of your apartment may seem difficult, it is completely possible if you take the proper approach. The techniques and detailed technologies described here will help you create smooth, even walls that are prepared for any type of finish.

Recall that preparation is essential. Choosing the appropriate materials and doing an accurate assessment of your walls’ condition will make the process go more smoothly and efficiently. Investing the time to do it correctly will pay off in the end, regardless of whether you choose to use drywall, plastering, or another method.

Your living space can be transformed with a little perseverance and attention to detail. From surface preparation to the finishing touches, every step adds to a polished, finished look that improves the atmosphere of your house.

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