Decorative plaster on the balcony

Adding decorative plaster to your balcony is a great way to give it a more fashionable and contemporary look. This adaptable material offers countless options for updating an outdated space or creating a new aesthetic.

Decorative plaster application adds a layer of weather resistance in addition to improving aesthetic appeal. You can achieve a long-lasting finish that resists alterations in temperature, moisture, and sunlight by using the appropriate methods and supplies.

This post will discuss how to select the best plaster type for your balcony, what equipment you’ll need, and the step-by-step instructions for achieving a polished finish. These pointers will help you maximize the space on your balcony, regardless of whether you’re a do-it-yourselfer or intend to hire a professional.

Type of Decorative Plaster	Key Features
Textured Plaster	Creates a unique surface with patterns; suitable for both modern and classic designs.
Venetian Plaster	Mimics the look of marble; adds a luxurious feel to the balcony walls.
Mineral Plaster	Durable and breathable; ideal for exterior balcony walls.
Acrylic Plaster	Water-resistant and flexible; great for balconies exposed to moisture.

Types of decorative plaster

Which type of plaster is better for the balcony? It’s enough to respond to this straightforward query to get your bearings: what are the differences between indoor and balcony conditions? First and foremost, these include extremes in temperature (down to several degrees below zero), high levels of humidity or dryness, air pollution from cities, exposure to direct sunlight, and precipitation (hail, rain) on balconies without glass.

Facade plasters are a wise choice for plastering loggias and balconies because of the outdoor conditions. We will only discuss plaster compositions for facades (including universal ones) later in the article.

Plaster is a kind of construction material that is made by combining the ingredients into a single solution, much like a viscous dough, which solidifies into an artificial stone when the base, or binder, hardens.

As a result, the primary binder distinguishes between the following types of plaster:

• mineral;
• silicone;
• acrylic;
• silicate;
• polymer.

Mineral plasters

Oldtimers are responsible for the compositions of mineral plaster. They date back thousands of years. Thus, the oldest solutions—gypsum, lime, and cement—have been put to the test over time, and as organic chemistry has advanced, they have gained new characteristics.

Gypsum plaster is applied as a decorative or leveling material. You can make intricate reliefs with this easily formed, plastic material that is also environmentally friendly. gains strength and hardness very quickly. possesses high adhesion, binding firmly to nearly all bases. lets air flow through walls.

The drawback is that it can absorb moisture and become weaker as a result. Waterproof agents are applied on top of the gypsum coating and modifying hydrophobic additives are added to the composition to increase resistance to water. Only when glazing is present on a balcony or loggia is gypsum plaster utilized.

Lime plaster requires the addition of hydrophobic modifiers but has a marginally higher moisture resistance. vapor-permeable, highly plastic, and environmentally benign. Because of its bactericidal properties, mold, rot, and fungus do not thrive on it. less resilient. Used as a decorative element and for rough finishing. For heated glass loggias only.

The most resilient mineral composition is cement, or more precisely, cement-sand. White cement is the primary binder used in decorative solutions. Repeatedly freezing, not fearing moisture. enduring. To make the composition more plastic, plasticizers are added. used for rough work as well (leveling).

The compositions of minerals resist fire. accessible in terms of price and market saturation. Certain complex compositions, like cement-lime, cement-gypsum, and cement-polymer, contain two or more different types of binders.

The propensity of mineral coatings to fracture in response to seismic and vibrational shocks is a common drawback. Although the compositions can be tinted, mineral plaster coatings are frequently applied at the end because the color drastically fades during drying.

Acrylic

Acrylic resins are the foundation of acrylic compositions. They combine to form a soap-washable, elastic, moisture-resistant coating. enduring. There are compositions that are tinted and left unpainted. Their propensity to build up static electric charges and their instability to fire are the drawbacks. They thus gather more dust than other kinds. less expensive, less vapor permeable, and less resistant to UV radiation than mineral compositions.

Silicone balcony mixtures

Silicone resins are the foundation for the production of silicone compositions. The most resilient possess high durability and elasticity. firmly sticks to all kinds of surfaces. vapor-permeable. Simple to install. They let air circulate through the walls by deflecting water. The primary drawback is the price.

Fractions help distinguish between compositions based on the filler’s grain size (sand, stone chips, perlite, vermiculite, etc.). Decorative mortars with medium and coarse grains are typically used for balconies. On the other hand, Venetian plaster, which requires the least amount of filler, can be used to decorate the loggia if desired.

Moreover, decorative mixtures are separated into:

• Venetian;
• textured – the decorative effect is created by forming a relief surface using special plastering techniques;
• structural – the decorative effect is achieved due to the composition (shape and size of grains, use of fibers, glitter);
• pebble – the effect is achieved due to the filler (stone chips) and a transparent base (acrylic);
• flock.

Advantages of decorative plaster

When it comes to balcony finishing, ornamental plaster offers the following benefits over other options, like wallpaper, clapboard, or plastic panels:

• non-flammability;
• long-term operation with preservation of properties;
• color preservation in the sun;
• high resistance to abrasion and impact;
• good compatibility with most decorative materials;
• space saving due to the absence of a frame;
• solidity.

Furthermore, ornamental plaster finishing is repairable, breathes on the walls, and offers an incredible variety of color schemes and effects that are both "off the charts" in terms of quantity and quality.

What a great opportunity it is to use your hands to create a one-of-a-kind design that suits your tastes!

Features of plaster with cold glazing

Many requirements for finishing are presented by cold glazing. It is advised to apply a waterproofing plaster or a water-repellent primer to the wall before plastering when using cold glazing because opening a door releases warm air and moisture, both of which condense on cold surfaces. When the windows are closed, never leave the room’s door open.

At least 8 degrees should be reached for both the air temperature and the surface temperature when plastering. While the plaster coating is strengthening, it is crucial that this temperature be kept constant.

Think about the possibility of doing additional work to insulate the balcony area when selecting a plastering option.

Warm plastering of a balcony

Warm loggias and balconies are already comparable to interior areas; the outside weather does not endanger them. For ornamental plastering on a loggia, compositions intended for interior work are appropriate.

A glazed balcony can be made more comfortable by adding sheet insulation to it. For this, expanded polystyrene, foil-clad isolon, or foam plastic insulation for the walls are frequently used. Unlike mineral wool, expanded polystyrene won’t allow condensation to build up on the walls.

Furthermore, there is no need to install a frame. You can either glue the sheets to the wall or use dowels with plate-shaped heads to attach them. The sheets are sturdy and fairly rigid in and of themselves. Mastic, plaster mortar, or foamed polyurethane glue (which is also used to seal the joints) are used to adhere the insulation.

Phases of the balcony’s wall insulation and plastering:

1. The walls of the balcony (or loggia) are first prepared (the preparation is described below).
2. Chases are punched for the electrical wiring. The wire is laid, sockets and switches are installed.
3. The wall is treated with a primer in two coats. Dried.
4. Sheets of insulation are attached to the outer walls of the balcony/loggia. Vertical seams are made with an offset, for which the overlying horizontal rows of slabs are slightly offset. The seams are sealed. The surface of the sheets, if there are protrusions, is leveled by cutting with a special float. First, the sheets of insulation are mounted on the outer fence, then on the side walls. The wall of the house itself is insulated only if it does not retain heat well in the room.
5. If the front wall "falls" onto the street, then triangular sections are formed on the side walls, which cannot be covered with rectangular sheets. They are measured, triangular inserts are cut out, installed and monolithed with foam.
6. All work is controlled using a level and a square, preventing the formation of large cracks.
7. A leveling plaster solution is applied over the polystyrene foam, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh is applied, pressing it into the layer of mortar. When the plaster solution dries, a leveling layer is applied, rubbed after the beginning of setting.
8. A flat wall of the house is plastered according to the rule.
9. Before finishing, the rough is well dried. If painting or wallpaper is planned, the laid layer is sanded after rubbing or a layer of putty is applied and smoothed. This is not necessary for applying a decorative plaster composition (with the exception of Venetian plaster).

Putting the last layer on

External plastering of balconies and loggias

The area of the balcony or loggia remains free thanks to external insulation or finishing. It is done externally, that is, on the street side. You are unable to complete this task on your own because specific climbing equipment is typically needed. Plastering requires the use of specialists.

Finishing the balcony with decorative plaster

Coarse-grained plaster compositions are perceived without internal protest on chilly balconies. Take the large-grain bark beetle, for instance. People react differently to warm balconies than to cold ones. This is a better place for compositions with more nuance. Plaster has a wet silk finish, and fine-grained patterns seem natural.

Tools

Plastering is a craft that has evolved over centuries. Masons and plasterers have created the most practical tools for handling and applying the solution over this time. Thus, the standard plastering tools and equipment will be required. Initially, a trowel. It is easy to apply, spread, and create a design with the solution.

Furthermore, you will require:

• spatulas;
• roller;
• brushes;
• grater;
• sponge;
• rule;
• plumb line or level;
• container for plaster mortar;
• mixer;
• masking tape;
• stamps or other improvised means for applying a pattern;
• cutter (for cutting sheet insulation);
• rags.

Very helpful video; the tool’s information is near the end of the clip.

Technologies for applying decorative plaster

Beginners will require guidance on plastering a balcony correctly. Every task is completed in appropriate weather. When applying the plaster finish, choose a time when the temperature will remain at least +5 °C. If the balcony receives direct sunlight, the work area needs to be shielded from it. Additionally, they keep precipitation out during application as well as the initial days as the solution solidifies and intensifies.

Observe the directions provided on the packaging. You ought to adhere to each step precisely. This will guarantee the final coating’s quality.

Plastering projects involve several steps that follow one another:

• preparation of the base;
• preparation of the solution;
• application of the solution;
• finishing.

Surface preparation

1. Remove (if any) the old coating: wallpaper, whitewash, paint, peeling plaster.
2. The presence of dust on the plastered wall sharply reduces the adhesion strength of the solution to the base surface. Therefore, before plastering, dust must be removed.
3. Grease stains, rust can "seep" through the plaster coating, protrude onto its surface, therefore, before plastering, they are removed using special means. Mold foci are also removed.
4. Metal embedded parts (if they cannot be removed) are insulated. To do this, they are covered with insulating compounds, for example, oil paint.
5. In a brick wall, the seams are deepened by 1 cm, after which the surface of the masonry is cleaned (scratched) with a metal brush. Notches are made on smooth concrete.
6. Cracks are “healed” with cement mortar. A reinforcing mesh is applied over large cracks.
7. In places where water can reach, waterproofing is done.
8. To increase the strength of the mortar’s adhesion to the base and to strengthen the wall surface, it is primed twice with a deep penetration compound.
9. After all the measures have been taken, the surface is thoroughly dried.
10. Window and door frames, recesses for sockets and switches are covered with masking tape to prevent mortar from getting on them. The electrical wiring is de-energized.

Closing the socket boxes prior to applying plaster

Applying decorative plaster

As a result, the interior of the loggia has already been ready for decorative plastering, and the required supplies and equipment have been acquired and ready. A chosen pattern or intended outcome has been identified. You are ready to go. See the section on "Decorative plasters" for more details on plastering a wall to achieve a particular decorative effect. Here, bark beetle plaster is used as an example, and the application process is explained.

Starting at the bottom, apply the decorative composition. The solution is transferred from the container to the trowel using a spatula. The trowel is then held against the wall at an angle and the entire solution is transferred, creating a smear. The filler grain size and the thickness of the applied layer of solution are about the same. Using a spatula, return whatever is left on the trowel to the container.

Then it is treated with a fresh portion of the solution. The layer is evened out without getting pressed down. After smoothing, anything that remains on the tool shouldn’t be placed in a container with the working solution as it will solidify rapidly.

Form a grooved pattern after five to ten minutes, or until the applied layer starts to set and the hand no longer sticks to the solution. Use a plastic float to move it on the surface in the desired direction, either straight or in a chaotic, circular motion. In this instance, big filler grains roll and leave grooves when they get in the way of the moving float and base.

The most important thing right now is to evenly apply grooves to the whole wall. Use a trowel to even out the layer after allowing the pebbles to settle for thirty minutes (the layer needs to solidify completely). In this instance, the grooves’ jagged edges have been softened.

You should work swiftly, cautiously, and with close attention to the technology. It is best to practice and get your hands dirty on a fiberboard training sheet because it is difficult to rectify an incorrect bark beetle.

Finishing

The most common finishing coats for decorative plastering on balcony walls are painting, waxing, or varnishing. Such a coating highlights the plaster layer’s positive aspects, adds color, and strengthens its surface.

In addition to its functional purpose, the paint protects against precipitation on a cold, non-glazed balcony. In addition, the paint film softens the edges of the protrusions. The paint should be chosen with consideration for the plaster composition used as the wall’s base. For instance, acrylic plaster is painted with acrylic paints.

The paint layer is applied in the following manner:

• in one pass;
• in two passes.

The plastered surfaces are allowed to completely dry before paint and varnish are applied using a brush or roller. It makes more sense to choose varnish by considering the plaster’s base composition. Varnish is used, either colorless or tinted. When applied to relief surfaces, the latter simultaneously softens the transitions and draws attention to the relief.

A balcony can be greatly enhanced by decorative plaster to give it a distinctive and fashionable appearance. Because of its adaptability, you can make a variety of textures and patterns to fit any style preference. Decorative plaster can produce the desired effect, whether you’re going for a more rustic look or a sleek, modern finish.

Decorative plaster offers advantages that go beyond aesthetics. It can even improve insulation. It also makes the walls more resilient to deterioration. Because balconies are frequently exposed to a range of weather conditions, this makes it the perfect option.

DIY enthusiasts can take on a manageable project like applying decorative plaster. You can get results that look professional if you have the right equipment and are patient enough. Decorative plaster is a good option to think about when remodeling an old balcony or finishing a new one.

You can easily create a chic and cozy area on your balcony with decorative plaster. It offers countless design options, from sleek, contemporary finishes to textured, rustic appearances, and is simple to apply and long-lasting. Decorative plaster is an excellent option for any balcony restoration project because it can offer both practical advantages and visual appeal, whether you’re looking to update the look of your balcony or protect it from the weather.

Video on the topic

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