Finishing putty: everything you need to know for a quality finish

Every wall or ceiling project aims for a smooth, faultless finish, and getting there calls for the appropriate supplies and methods. Whether you’re applying paint or wallpaper, finishing putty is essential to getting the ideal surface or just going for a polished appearance.

However, what is finishing putty exactly, and why is it so important? Comprehending its intent, varieties, and methods of application can significantly impact the final result of your undertaking. Even those who are new to DIY can produce results that are professional with a few easy pointers and insights.

Everything you need to know about finishing putty will be covered in this article, from selecting the best product to applying it correctly. By the time you’re done, you’ll know exactly how to make a finish that’s both elegant and long-lasting.

Species

Plaster.

This kind of putty levels the surface quite effectively and essentially never shrinks. This mixture’s constant white color makes it effective at hiding dark areas. Due to its high moisture permeability, it should only be used for dry room finishing. Ideal for concrete bases, plaster, and drywall.

Cement.

A reasonably priced, somewhat plastic mixture based on white cement that is moisture-resistant and frequently used as a finishing coat for outdoor projects and bathrooms. It doesn’t contain sand, in contrast to the beginning cement putty, and the fraction sizes don’t go above 0.2 mm. Its grain size is still larger than that of gypsum or acrylic compositions, though, so the puttied surface is less smooth.

One drawback is that it has a propensity to shrink and crack. Owing to its extreme strength, the surface should only be sanded partially dry after application; this cannot be done after the material has completely dried.

Polymer (latex, acrylic).

Because of the amount of polymer components in both of these compositions, they are relatively similar. But still:

• Latex is more durable and durable; It is less prone to cracking than acrylic, gives a perfectly even surface and improves adhesion (clutch); Such a putty is very economical – it is allowed to apply it with a thin layer of less than a millimeter; used mainly before painting; High -quality putty with a similar composition of the steam is permeable, does not require intermediate priming and grinding; can be used to restore wooden surfaces with further varnish coating; The disadvantages of latex putty include perhaps the high cost and the inability to use at low temperatures due to a decrease in elasticity;
• The acrylic surface is quite durable, does not absorb moisture, is resistant to low temperatures, and, unlike gypsum, cannot be washed away, so acrylic is widely used not only for interior but also exterior decoration; similar to liquid rubber, it has good adhesion, but it is not advisable to apply a layer that is too thin, as it will be less durable.

Polymer compositions work well with any substrate, including drywall, wood, plaster, and aerated concrete.

What are the requirements for putty??

There are stricter guidelines for the top finishing layer than there are for the starting coating. The following requirements must be fulfilled by premium putty used for final finishing:

• be flexible and easy to apply;
• hide minor imperfections of the previous layer and fill even small cavities and irregularities;
• have good coverage and hide dark spots;
• A primer should lie well on it, without stripes and divorces;
• do not flow under their own weight;
• do not crack after drying.

Mixture consumption

It is preferable to determine the precise material consumption ahead of time to prevent unforeseen expenses. How much putty can be used per square meter is indicated on the packaging by any manufacturer. Please be aware that different brands have different compositions. The thickness of the applied layer must be considered during the calculation.

Here are some instances of 1 m2 consumption with a 1 mm layer:

• Polymer: UNIS Kron – 1.2-1.5 kg; Sheetrock (lime-polymer) – 0.67 kg.
• Gypsum: Knauf Rotband – 1 kg;
• Cement: Knauf Multifinish – 1.2 kg; Osnovit Belsilk – the same consumption of 1.2 kg;
• Latex: Tex Profi – 0.6 kg;
• Acrylic: VGT (VGT) universal – 0.5 kg.

Apply finishing putty to a level surface, like plaster, to cut down on its consumption.

Facade finishing putty

Finishing allows for the surface to be visually appealing while simultaneously providing stability and weather resistance, especially for wooden structures.

When applying putty to exterior walls, it needs to have:

• high resistance to moisture;
• frost resistance and resistance to temperature changes;
• sufficient porosity so that the building can "breathe".

Because acrylic compositions meet all of these requirements, they are frequently used for the last stage of exterior finishing. It is also permitted to finish an exterior using low-cost finishing cement mixtures. However, a significant disadvantage of these is that they require periodic surface renewal due to the occurrence of cracks during the building’s shrinkage. Although they are not inexpensive, latex compositions are devoid of this disadvantage entirely.

Ready-made putties and dry mixes

Putties are available for purchase as ready-made solutions and as dry mixes that need to be diluted with regular water. Putties from the following brands are among the most widely used finishing compositions:

• Shitrok: very high -quality compositions with excellent adhesion are referred to polymer, the manufacturer produces both latex for interior decoration and universal acrylic mixtures. In addition to polymer binders, it has a white marble filler at its base. Recommended layer thickness is 3 mm. Packaged in 10-20 l buckets.
• Knauf: presented by dry mixes FUGEN, Fugen Hydro (moisture-resistant), Fugen GV (for gypsum fiber sheets) based on gypsum in 25 kg bags. Knauf also produces a polymer finishing paste Rotband with limestone filler, which has a low consumption (0.48 kg per m2 with a layer thickness of 0.3 mm).
• Yunis: the manufacturer offers high-quality and inexpensive, fairly elastic putty. The composition of the proposed mixtures is varied: on a cement, gypsum and polymer basis;
• Semin: thin and ultra-thin polymer mixture that does not require further grinding, for interior and exterior finishing; the only drawback is the high price.

Perfecting the application of finishing putty is crucial to achieving a smooth and faultless finish. Everything you need to know to ensure your walls are ready for painting or other decorative finishes is covered in this article, including how to choose the proper putty type, prepare the surface, and apply it correctly.

Application technology

Manually

There are no differences in the steps involved in do-it-yourself puttying of internal and facade walls:

• the solution for the finishing putty is prepared a little more liquid than the starting one, it is diluted to a creamy consistency; First, water is poured in, and then the mixture is poured into it;
• after thoroughly mixing with water (this can be done with a regular drill with an attachment), leave it for 5 minutes and then beat again;
• no special tools are required, just purchase two spatulas, the first wider and the second small for finishing hard-to-reach places;
• depending on the composition of the finishing putty, it is applied in a layer of 1-5 mm;
• the solution is applied with sweeping movements from the center to the edges, and then leveled, while running a spatula over the area several times;
• when leveling, the tool must be pressed as tightly as possible to the surface;
• when applying the next layer, its direction should not coincide with that used to create the previous layer;
• in the area of ​​the seams, the spatula should first go across, and then along;
• if necessary, the completely dry surface is sanded with a fine grater or sponge.

In this video, putty application is demonstrated correctly:

Using a machine station

When finishing large areas, using a mechanized application method can help to speed up and simplify the work. Because the machine station’s solution is well-mixed throughout the entire workday, the putty is applied in an even layer and has maximum adhesion to the surface due to the high pressure, making the coating more durable.

Make sure to check the technical specifications to see if the dry mixture is suitable for use with machines!

Such equipment’s major dimensions are its only drawback, allowing you to use it in rooms up to 25 m2. The following is the application procedure:

• the dry mixture is poured manually into the hopper;
• from it it goes into a mixer connected to the water supply, if there is none, special containers are used;
• the program sets the mixing proportions with the liquid;
• the finished solution under pressure created by the compressor flies out through a hose with a nozzle;
• the putty on the wall is leveled with a rule.

A minimum of two workers are required when operating a machine station: one person applies the finishing mixture to the walls, while the other levels it.

The gun is placed 30 cm away from the surface, perpendicular to it, to begin the puttying process. Strong stations have the ability to feed the solution up to 80 cm away, which is useful when working in areas with high ceilings. The feed speed determines the layer thickness, which is controlled by the program.

Some tips for use

Selecting finishing putty from the same manufacturer as starting putty is preferable. Applying this ensures good adhesion.

Bright lighting focused along the wall will highlight all of the imperfections, grooves, and layer transitions while the work is being done. This is the ideal use for a tripod-mounted lamp with a reflector.

Achieving the perfect surface is crucial when priming walls for painting or applying smooth wallpaper. Ultimately, a finish like this won’t cover up flaws.

A mixture of acrylic is ideal for puttying ceilings. It is spread out thinner than gypsum and lies more evenly. Starting on one side, start leveling the ceiling from the wall all the way across the width.

Is it possible to use finishing putty without a starting mixture and putty right away? This is dependent upon how smooth the walls are. You don’t need a starting mixture if plasterboard or beacons are plastered with superior quality.

Is it feasible to cover finishing putty with plaster? Yes, puttied ceilings and walls make a great foundation for decorative plaster.

Applying the solution with a roller with a fine pile instead of a spatula can expedite the process. The consistency of the putty should be creamy. To distribute it uniformly throughout the surface, it is poured into a tray, dipped into a roller, and rolled along the wall. With a big spatula, remove the excess.

Any plastering project needs to use putty to achieve a smooth, perfect finish. You may prepare a surface for painting or wallpapering and give your room a polished appearance by carefully choosing the appropriate finishing putty type and applying it according to instructions.

Recall that persistence and focus on details are essential. Each layer should be applied slowly, letting it completely dry before sanding and moving on to the next. This will stop errors and produce a more beautiful and long-lasting outcome.

The technique of applying finishing putty is something that anyone can learn with a little effort and practice. These pointers will assist you in getting a superior finish that improves the overall look of your walls, regardless of your level of experience or DIY aptitude.

Video on the topic

Finishing Putty for walls for painting. 1 Layer. About the most important! We putty on (NR Start) layer.

Main mistakes when puttying walls and ceilings. #35

The process of finishing putty in 3 stages