Gypsum plaster in a modern interior: application, types and features of use

Gypsum plaster is a common material for modern interior design because it provides both flair and utility. This adaptable material is a favorite of both designers and homeowners due to its smooth finish and simplicity of application. Understanding the different types of gypsum plaster and their applications can help you achieve the ideal look for your space, whether you’re starting a new project or renovating an existing one.

The capacity of gypsum plaster to produce a smooth, superior surface is one of its most notable qualities. It can be applied to create decorative effects, fix damaged walls, or give paint and wallpaper a smooth surface. Another benefit of gypsum plaster is that it dries quickly and shrinks little, so you can spend more time enjoying your freshly finished space and less time waiting around.

Gypsum plaster comes in a variety of forms, each ideal for a specific purpose. Some, for example, are perfect for intricate moldings and decorative finishes, while others are made to be extremely durable in high-traffic areas. You can select the best type for your project by being aware of its unique characteristics, which will guarantee both practicality and aesthetic appeal.

While gypsum plaster is relatively easy to apply, expert application is necessary for optimal results. In order to prevent problems such as uneven surfaces or cracking, proper preparation and application techniques are essential. The success of your interior design project can be greatly impacted by understanding the fundamentals of handling gypsum plaster, regardless of whether you’re working with a professional or doing it yourself.

Aspect	Description
Application	Gypsum plaster is used for creating smooth and even surfaces on walls and ceilings. It helps to prepare the surface for painting or wallpapering.
Types	1. Traditional Gypsum Plaster: Made from gypsum and water, it"s great for interior use and provides a smooth finish. 2. Ready-Mixed Gypsum Plaster: Pre-mixed for convenience and quick application. 3. High-Performance Gypsum Plaster: Includes additives for improved durability and faster setting.
Features	1. Easy to Apply: Smooth application and easy to work with. 2. Quick Drying: Sets faster than other types of plaster. 3. Good Insulation: Helps with thermal and sound insulation. 4. Environmentally Friendly: Made from natural materials and often recyclable.

Types of gypsum plaster mixtures

The composition of plaster containing gypsum varies. Several criteria are used to separate them.

By application area, they are all separated into:

• universal gypsum plasters;
• gypsum plasters for external work (new mixtures with special additives used outdoors);
• gypsum plasters for internal work.

By way of the operating environment:

• for dry and normal rooms;
• for rooms in which the humidity level periodically increases, but not higher than 75% (subject to waterproofing coating).

By usage location:

• universal (wall and ceiling);
• high-strength (for floor screeds);
• only for walls (vertical surfaces).

Regarding the application’s goal:

• Rough for base layer. Base compositions contain coarse sand, so they can be applied in a thicker layer. Such a coating can also be used under decorative plaster for interior decoration, for example, Venetian or Moroccan, facing work.
• Finishing or finishing. Filler grain up to 0.63 mm allows you to get a smooth (glossy) surface with a minimum layer of 2 mm.

• hand-applied gypsum plaster;
• SGShS for mechanized plastering of walls.

By composition, or what makes up the major parts, there are:

• dry gypsum plaster mixes (SGShS);
• gypsum-polymer SS (dry mixes), for example, GIPSOPOLYMER tm, (with polymer additives that provide good adhesion of gypsum to any base);
• gypsum polymer putties;
• gypsum plastering mixes for screeds;
• lime-gypsum plaster mixes;
• gypsum putties.

Each of them possesses unique qualities, benefits, and application domains.

Technical characteristics and composition of gypsum plasters

Plaster mixes containing gypsum possess the subsequent technical attributes:

• bulk density – (kg/m3)
• water-solid ratio W/T (weight of water/weight of dry mix), otherwise called dilution proportions;
• yield of mortar mix – ratio of volume (weight) of dry mix to volume of solution (l/l or kg/l);
• processing time of applied mixture (min), otherwise – setting time;
• density of mortar mix kg/m3;
• density of solution (kg/m3).

Additionally, SGSHS’s attributes include:

• maximum thickness of applied layer (up to 6 cm);
• drying time;
• strength gain;
• consumption rate kg/m2;
• air temperature during work.

The manufacturer lists these specifications on the packaging. Gypsum plaster has a specific gravity of 1500 kg/m3, which is two times lower than cement plaster’s. In the end, this results in a reduced load on structures.

Fillers, modifying additives, and a binder are the components of SGShS.

Gypsum

The two distinct minerals gypsum and calcite are referred to by the commonly used term "alabaster." Granular alabaster is known as selenite, and fibrous gypsum as alabaster. Gypsum stone is used as a raw material to produce different kinds of gypsum, which are then ground after drying (or partially dehydrating at various temperatures).

Consequently, gypsum is

• construction (also called alabaster);
• molding (has a finer grind);
• medical (especially pure raw material);
• high-strength (lower drying temperature).

Gypsum rapidly solidifies when mixed with water, releasing heat and producing volume. The "made" stone, on the other hand, is less transparent, has a microcrystalline structure, and is microporous.

Gypsum is separated as a binder by:

• strength (12 grades from G2 to G25 – (breaking load under compression 2-25 kg/cm2);
• fineness of grinding (3 groups – I coarse, II medium, III fine grinding);
• setting time (3 types – A fast-hardening, B – normal-hardening, B – slow-hardening).

Gypsum grades G-2 through G-25, grinding; II and III groups; normal and slow hardening are used for plastering. When compacted, loose gypsum powder can have a density of up to 1450 kg/m3.Its density is approximately 900 kg/m3. The mineral is typically white in color. It may also have a pink tint, be gray, or be yellowish.

Alabaster and gypsum can be purchased. Alabaster can be used in place of gypsum grades 4-6 when making gypsum plaster.

Fillers

Fillers are used to give plaster compositions new properties and to stop cracking while also cutting costs.

For this purpose, gypsum mixtures are made with the following ingredients:

• sand (quartz, limestone, river, etc.);
• sawdust (the so-called "Armenian plaster" contains sawdust sifted through a sieve with 5 mm cells);
• flour (limestone or dolomite);
• ash;
• chalk;
• perlite (light solutions);
• mica, etc.

The dispersion of fillers, or the ratio of a particle’s surface area to its volume occupied, depends on the type of mixture. For example, 0.8–1.0 mm of quartz sand and limestone are used. Fillers to fractions should be roughly equal in ratio.

Additives

Modifying additives slow down the setting speed, lessen the chance of cracking, and improve the mixture’s mobility, adhesion strength, and plasticity.

The SGShS is set too early. Additives and retarders are thus included in the mixtures’ composition. Hydrated lime is one of the retarders. Additionally, adding it enhances plasticity and lessens deformations caused by shrinkage.

Citric acid functions as an inhibitor or setting retarder. Add 10–20 g of food or technical citric acid when mixing with water to reduce the setting to 30–40 minutes.

You can find additional retarders in a hardware store or in the kitchen:

• milk with a fat content of 3.2 (replaces 10% of the amount of water);
• PVA glue (glue 1 part, water 3-4 parts);
• washing powder (for 5 kg of gypsum – 100 g);
• wallpaper glue;
• liquid soap or Fairy;
• Vetonit putty (for four parts of gypsum, take a part of vetonite, mix dry or first dilute vetonite in water, and then mix the gypsum with this liquid);
• plasticizer for concrete mixtures.

Cellulose fibers are added to minimize shrinkage and cracking, while polymers are added to boost adhesive forces and decrease water absorption.

Lime and white (zinc or titanium) are also used as whitening additives.

Water

It takes clean tap water to dilute GShS. Consume only chilly water. The package indicates the quantity.

Pros and cons

Gypsum plaster, the benefits and drawbacks of which are primarily based on the gypsum’s qualities, has the innate ability to form a smooth, nearly glossy surface without the need for extra finishing, in contrast to cement and lime. It can also be applied in a thicker layer without reinforcement (Volma permits applications up to 6 cm thick).

The advantages of this special natural material are as follows:

• environmentally friendly (does not emit harmful substances, is completely natural, has an acidity equal to the acidity of human skin – 5.5);
• vapor permeability, which helps improve the microclimate (breathable coating, absorbing excess moisture and releasing it when the air in the room is dry);
• versatility (suitable for covering brickwork, wooden walls, concrete, aerated concrete and other surfaces);
• ease of restoration (no traces are visible after repair);
• ease of decoration (takes shapes with the finest molding, easy to paint);
• easy mixing when making mortar mixtures;
• shrinkage-free (does not form cracks during shrinkage);
• low own weight of the coating (porosity can be 40-60%, depends on the amount of water for mixing, pore sizes up to 3 microns);
• fast hardening and strength gain;
• ease of grinding the finished product,
• non-flammable, fire-resistant,
• consumption at the same layer thickness is 2 times less than that of cement plasters,
• does not delaminate;
• does not dehydrate;
• low thermal conductivity;
• high plasticity;
• has high adhesion to any type of adhesives and paints and varnishes.

Gypsum plaster’s drawbacks include its rapid hardening time, lack of bactericidal properties, low resistance to frost, and low water resistance. The latter is thought to be the primary drawback. The drawbacks are made up for with a variety of additives.

What does the consumption depend on

To stock up on the amount of gypsum plaster necessary for plastering work, measurements and calculations are made. The packaging indicates the approximate consumption when applying a layer of gypsum plaster 10 mm thick per 1 square meter. Therefore, you need to calculate the arithmetic mean layer thickness for the surface that is going to be plastered. If the walls of the new home are almost perfectly flat, then any given value (say, the minimum) can be taken into account. Then the areas of the ceiling, walls, columns, etc. are simply summed up.d. and multiply by the minimum layer value, taken in cm (0.5 cm), and by the consumption rate of gypsum plaster per 1 m2 of wall, specified by the manufacturer. The resulting value is multiplied by 10-15% to allow for error and for the fact that part of the solution falls on the floor.

If the walls are not level, the average layer for each wall (and other surface) is calculated, and the consumption is also calculated by multiplying the area by the average thickness (in centimeters) and by the amount of gypsum plaster consumed per square meter.

Measuring along the beacons yields the average layer thickness. The distance between the surface of the beacon strip and the wall (perpendicular to its surface) is measured along them at three to four points (per beacon). The total distances are divided by the number of measurement points after all of the wall’s beacons have been measured. The thickness of the average layer is found.

Another method is to figure out how much gypsum-based plaster you need in kilograms by multiplying its volume by the mixture’s density.

The degree of wall irregularity is the primary factor influencing the amount of gypsum plaster used. The technical properties of the mixture itself make up the second factor. The plasterer’s skill level comes in third (less mixture wasted).

Gypsum plaster is typically offered for sale in 30-kg paper containers. Divide the estimated weight by 30 kg to get the number of bags, then round the result to the nearest integer.

How to plaster walls with gypsum plaster

The application of cement and lime mortars is not the same as plastering surfaces with gypsum plaster due to its unique properties. Work is done at a base temperature of at least +10 °C, a positive air temperature (above +5 °C), and an air humidity of no more than 60%. Tools that have metal components must be made of stainless steel. How to plaster walls, ceilings, and slopes.

• preparation of the base with the installation of beacons;
• mixing the solution;
• applying a layer of plaster along the beacons and leveling,
• preparation for finishing (grouting and glossing).

Ventilation is necessary to prevent drafts in the room while the plaster layer dries, which takes about five days.

As soon as the mixture preparation container is empty, water should be poured over the instruments on a regular basis. The setting time of the new solution is significantly shortened by particles of the old solution.

Plaster gypsum grouting

Preparation of the base

Prior to applying gypsum plaster to the walls, the base’s surface is cleared of dirt and dust and various layers (old, peeling plaster coating, wallpaper, growths, and oil stains) are removed. Take out any old nails and metal components. They are protected from corrosion by anti-corrosion agents if they cannot be removed.

Over time, rust will undoubtedly show up on the surface. When working with gypsum plaster, all metal components beneath the coating must be protected from corrosion.

Primed is the base. Concrete walls with a high sheen are covered in Betonokontakte. moisturizing substrates (foam, expanded clay, aerated concrete, etc.); additionally, rough and porous concrete – with primers for deep penetration, like Grundirmittel – is used. After using a roller or brush to apply the primer, the base must be left to dry for at least three hours. The coating peeling off is frequently caused by the incorrect primer mixture selection and noncompliance with the application technology.

If the plans are to apply plaster without putty (with glossing), then the electrical work is done after priming and installing beacons, but before applying the solution. Because it is impossible to cover the groove unnoticeably on glossy surfaces. The socket boxes are placed in the same plane as the beacons. They are embedded in the same mixture that will be used to plaster the walls, checking their level with a rule until the plaster has hardened. After the mixture has set, a wire is inserted into the socket boxes and twisted into a ring inside the socket boxes. After that, they are sealed with masking tape, the excess of which is cut off with a stationery knife. When applying gypsum plaster to the wall, the tape reliably protects the socket boxes from getting the solution inside. After the grouting is done, the tape is carefully cut out.

And now for the mix for gypsum plaster.

How to dilute gypsum plaster

Get a clean plastic container ready for the solution. No more than 65 liters when working alone; a larger container when working in pairs or three. It is filled with 18 liters of cold tap water for every 30 kg of SGShS (0.6 l / 1 kg). First, add eight to ten trowels of GS and stir for about two minutes. Next, slowly stir in the remaining mixture while stirring. After a duration of roughly 3-7 minutes, mix using a mixer. After holding, the dry mixture cannot be added. Within twenty to twenty-five minutes, all prepared mass should be laid.

If you have never worked with a quick-hardening mixture before, reduce the volume of the prepared material until you get used to it.

Installing beacons

To install beacons, the walls are hung vertically and horizontally. To do this, stepping back from the top of the wall and each corner by ~ 30-40 centimeters, drive in dowels made of a material that is not subject to corrosion. Their caps should protrude above the base by the planned thickness of the plaster layer. A plumb line lowered from the caps 30-40 cm above the floor is used to install 2 more dowels. A cord is pulled diagonally and horizontally, the place where the layer thickness will be minimal is determined. After this, the cords are moved, sliding on the dowels, closer to the wall and set according to the minimum layer thickness planned for the future plaster. 2-3 dowels are installed along the vertical cords, the caps of which have the height of the cord above the wall, or the already driven ones are deepened to the required depth. They are needed for installing/making beacons.

A solution is thrown along the line of the cord (slightly higher than the plumb line cord). Then take a long building level, wet it with water (so that it does not stick to the solution) and install it on the dowel heads (the plane of the level ruler should be perpendicular to the wall). In this case, the level is slightly pressed into the solution. Then, with a spatula (from both sides of the level), remove the solution protruding from under it. The level is removed downwards and to the side. A rectangular gypsum beacon remains on the wall. Such a beacon does not need to be removed after plastering. Time and effort are saved on removing the beacon and sealing the groove.

Installing metal beacons follows the same procedure. Instead of using gypsum, a beacon is pressed into the wall onto gypsum "cakes."

The rule’s length determines the step (distance) for installing beacons. It is shorter by 20–30 cm. If the beacons are made of galvanized profile, first a plumb line is drawn on the wall, and then the solution is applied with slaps every 30 cm. This allows the beacons to be pressed into the solution, controlling the surface both horizontally and vertically. A plumb line is used to verify the installation is correct. Mesh corner profiles are installed on the internal and external corners in the same plane as the beacons of the adjacent walls, including on mortar slaps.

Once the solution has slightly solidified, beacons are removed. You can make a layer cut 6 mm on both sides from the beacon to smooth out the groove edges. Mortar is used to seal the grooves.

Application

Most likely, there are a lot of features in the SGShS application for as many masters. You can familiarize yourself with the numerous variations by watching the videos on the video.

The process of coating the wall with a thick layer of the solution.

1. Using large slaps (one to one), apply the solution to the wall with a trowel, covering the surface entirely (without gaps). At the same time, use up the entire amount of the mixture in the basin at a time, trying to keep the line of the edge of the plastering horizontal. Since the layer is thick, there will not be enough mixture to cover the entire gap between the two beacons.
2. Use a float to level the applied material, lightly pressing the solution against the wall and squeezing out air bubbles. The thickness of this layer should be such that there is at least 1.5-2 cm between its surface and the rule placed against the beacons. This distance should be maintained over the entire plastered area so that the next layer is even in thickness. Where the wall comes closer to the rule, there is no need to apply the first layer.
3. Having leveled the layer, draw long wavy lines on its surface with the sharp end of the tool, going from top to bottom (the more, the better), covering the entire surface of the solution with them.
4. Apply the first layer to the next area. Align it again with a float. Check the remaining gap with the rule. Draw lines again with the corner of the spatula. So until the end of the wall.
5. Let the layer dry.
6. Apply the second layer with a spatula in small increments and smooth it with a float, moving it horizontally. In this case, the new solution engages with the grooves of the first layer.
7. The solution applied in small areas is smoothed using the rule. And fill the next section with mortar using the same scheme (applied, leveled with a float, pulled with a rule).
8. Having completed the work between the two beacons, move on to the adjacent section.
9. When the wall is plastered, give the mortar about 40 minutes to set.
10. Use a rule to trim the remaining protrusions along the entire wall after straightening.
11. Take out the beacons and trim the unevenness again with a rule placed diagonally against the wall, moving it horizontally.
12. Smear the grooves with a diluted thick solution.

Plastering should begin at the ceiling. Using a large spatula or a wide half-trowel, apply the gypsum plaster mixture toward yourself. Using a trowel, some plasterers toss the mixture. Plaster is applied to walls by some artisans from top to bottom and by others from bottom to top. The area in between the beacons has to be filled in. Here, too, there are variations. Some quickly level the mixture with a rule after applying it in small areas, while others quickly slap the entire space between the two beacons (this is not recommended for beginners).

The solution is applied in two or three layers if the coating thickness is high. In this instance, a notch is made on the first layer that hasn’t hardened using a notched trowel. After the first layer has dried, the second one is applied.

Alignment

When applying gypsum plaster to walls by hand, the mixture is typically leveled using an H-rule in a zigzag pattern starting from the bottom. The rule does not have to be applied in its entirety, from the floor to the ceiling. With a spatula (trowel), you can remove excess material from the rule and send it to the wall where there isn’t enough solution. You can level it in sections up to one meter high. To level corners, use an angle trowel.

Throw away any solution that leaks onto the floor. It will drastically reduce the shelf life of the solution mixture if it is not added to the container holding the mixture.

The protrusions are removed with a wide spatula or trapezoidal rule once the solution can no longer be pressed with a finger (45–70 minutes after setting or –65 after mixing). After cutting, the surface is appropriate for tile facing projects.

Grouting and glossing

In the case when the coating is prepared for wallpaper or painting, after holding for ~ 15-20 minutes (95 minutes. after mixing, when the surface is pressed with a finger), grout the gypsum plaster with a hard float (felt or sponge) moistened with water. This is used to level out the remaining traces of the spatula or rule. Wetting (this and subsequent) should be abundant. After waiting until the surface being rubbed begins to become dull, begin smoothing with wide movements of a wide spatula or stainless steel trowel. In this case, cement milk appears on the surface, which fills the pits and large pores. A perfectly smooth surface is obtained if, within 24 hours after the solution has set (not earlier than 2 hours after mixing), it is abundantly moistened with water and smoothed again. After such treatment, puttying before painting is not required.

After plastering the ceiling, the coating close to the walls is cut for the entire thickness of the layer around the perimeter of the room to prevent any possible cracks that may run from the walls to the center.

After using a rule to level the laid mixture, a relief roller is used to roll the coating, or a forming tool is used to apply a pattern, to create a relief decor. For interior decoration, such as Moroccan or Venetian, decorative plaster can also be covered with a smooth coating.

Watch videos on the correct application of gypsum plaster to walls as well.

What to paint with

Without compaction, gypsum materials are porous and subject to minute irregularities. Therefore, by examining the surface and shining side light on it, the question of whether puttying is necessary after applying gloss to a gypsum wall can be answered. Either way, it is primed before painting and puttying, and glossing the surface beneath the putty is not necessary for improved adhesion. Up to 2 mm of putty (sanded after 24 hours).

Painting is done with acrylic water-soluble paints, also known as water emulsions or dispersions. There are occasions (far fewer) when oil paint is used. Once the plaster has dried completely, paint is applied. The finishing plaster can also be painted using different materials. For instance, soaking the finish in heated drying oil or a shellac-rosin solution on alcohol (available premade) will give the surface an aged marble appearance. This type of impregnation offers additional moisture protection.

Frequently asked questions

1. Is it possible to glue wallpaper directly onto gypsum plaster? – To wallpaper, the surface of the coating must be primed and, if the surface is grainy, it is putty-coated. Glossy white finish will not show through the wallpaper. It is enough to prime it so that the plaster does not draw out water from wallpaper glue.
2. Why does gypsum plaster harden so quickly? – This can happen for several reasons. For example, if you use warm water for the solution, the speed of chemical reactions increases. A sharp acceleration of crystallization causes ready-made crystals formed in the previous batch or even a piece of old gypsum plaster of the walls to get into the solution. Therefore, it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the tool more often and wash the containers (after each finished batch), you cannot throw the solution that has fallen on the floor into the container, etc.. Accelerated setting is also caused by long-term storage of SGSHS and storage in an opened package. SGSHS is a counterfeit.
3. Is it necessary to putty the wall after gypsum plaster? – Yes, if it has not been glossed.
4. Is it possible to lay brick directly on gypsum plaster? – No. For a number of reasons, it cannot be used as masonry. Brick is a porous material, it will draw moisture from the fresh solution. As a result, the coating does not gain the required strength. And no one will prime each brick.
5. Gypsum plaster hardens too quickly, what to do? – You can mix a small volume of mortar with the addition of retarders for testing. If the retarders do not help, – make smaller batches so that you have time to work them out.
6. Is it possible to apply gypsum plaster screed to cement? – Yes. For this, the cement surface is primed.
7. How to lay a cement plaster screed on existing gypsum plaster? – This cannot be done, since cement is a shrinking material. It will tear a less durable coating.
8. How to make homemade gypsum plaster? – The recipes are given above. However, you need to be prepared for the fact that economically or in terms of time costs, the game will not be worth the candle.
9. How you can accurately distinguish fake gypsum plaster? – You can distinguish a fake only by directly comparing the behavior of the mixtures during dilution and during work. Therefore, it is easier for non-specialists to pay attention to the details of the packaging (paint quality, packaging material and other details).

Comparative characteristics of plasters from different manufacturers

SGShS with multiple modifications can be found in various manufacturer lines. It is evident from a comparison of the top producers of the best gypsum plasters that each has a unique strategy. Whereas Volma is constantly experimenting and creating new mixes with intriguing qualities, Knauf, a German, concentrates on the quality of a nearly age-old formula. Knauf mixtures, on the other hand, cost significantly more and call for the use of unique primers and multi-layer application. Despite its benefits, SS Volma’s gypsum quality is marginally worse than Knauf’s.

Characteristics	Compared brands
	Knauf	Volma-sloy	Bolars	Starateli
Dry mix consumption (kg/m2) per 10 mm layer	8.5	8-9	8.5	8-9
Maximum layer, mm	50	60	50	50
Water consumption, l/kg	0.6	0.55-0.65	0.5-0.56	0.5-0.7
Complete drying, days	7	5-7	7	7
Start and end of setting, min (viability min)	(45-60)	45-180	(60)	(45)
Features	Suitable for wallpaper	Plastering without primer	Shelf life 12 months, does not require puttying
Operating conditions	Damp and dry rooms	Dry and normal mode	Dry and normal mode	Dry, normal

As you can see, the indicators are generally close. Finally Everyone ultimately chooses the gypsum plaster that is most appropriate for their situation based on personal experience or advice from experts.

Preparing gypsum mortar with your own hands

Pure gypsum mortar is also utilized. It’s employed in the production of wall décor castings. Pour some cold water into a clean container, then sprinkle some gypsum powder on top of the water to create a basic solution. Until a tiny hill rises above the water, powder is added. Using a spatula, mix things together. Try blending with your hands to sense the various processes that take place. The solution is ready when the combined mixture begins to warm up a little.

Gypsum plaster is a great option for contemporary interior design because it has many uses and advantages that make it perfect for today’s homes. The different types of gypsum plaster can meet different needs and preferences, whether your goal is to create smooth, stylish walls or improve acoustic performance. This post will examine the types, uses, and special qualities of gypsum plaster that set it apart as a superior choice for attaining a modern, functional finish. It will also discuss how gypsum plaster can be used successfully in contemporary spaces.

Gypsum plaster recipes

You can use the following recipes to make the solution yourself:

1. Mix 3 parts ground chalk + 1 part gypsum, then add a little wood glue. Pour into cold water and mix.
2. In the container, mix 1 h. drying oil, 2 hours. gypsum, 0.1 hour. siccative NF-1, after adding water they are mixed.
3. Regular plaster mix 1 h., wood sawdust – 1 h., gypsum 4 h. mix, then dilute with water.

Additives for modification and fillers, as described above (not to exceed 10% of the weight of the mixture), may be added to these mixes. It makes sense to test the mixture on trial mixes before combining a big batch.

If you want to avoid the finish becoming cracked, you cannot mix cement and gypsum together when making gypsum plaster at home. However, you can make a lime-gypsum mortar by hand.

The consistency of the plaster mortar is considered to be correct if, after application and stretching, it keeps its shape and doesn’t float on the wall.

Gypsum plasticizers

Plasticizers are compounds with various chemical bases that control the gypsum crystallization processes. They are included in:

• increase the strength of the solution (due to the reduction of water absorbed by gypsum, the gypsum is harder, the less water was used);
• increase fluidity;
• ensure waterproofing and good shrinkage;
• lower the freezing temperature of water;
• accelerate hardening in cool conditions;
• increase adhesion;
• increase air permeability, water resistance.

The plasticizer’s concentration can be utilized to control the setting time.

Several well-known brands include Friplast, Vianplast, Sika ViscoCrete-G2, and Fluid Premia 325.

Gypsum is not suited for concrete plasticizers. They are colored differently from white (for gypsum)—brown, yellow, and gray.

Use in wet rooms and outdoors

The idea that gypsum finishing is inappropriate in restrooms is a prevalent one. But restrooms are thought of as spaces with high humidity for brief periods of time. Thus, using gypsum plaster in them is not only possible but also preferred. Installing waterproofing in areas that come into direct contact with water is the only requirement. Shower rooms have fully sealed waterproofing. The waterproofing that works well on a gypsum base is selected.

Deep penetration primer applied in three to four layers is commonly used to achieve waterproofing.

It was once thought that areas with frequent rain and significant temperature fluctuations could not be plastered over with gypsum mortar. For outdoor work, new compositions called SGShS (gypsum-mineral and gypsum-polymer) are utilized. Concrete leveling in thin layers and sand-lime brickwork are two more applications for gypsum polymer compositions. Polymer modifiers strengthen and increase the coating’s resistance to frost. Mineral plasticizers are extra binders used in gypsum mineral compositions.

Gypsum plaster is a great option for modern interior design because it combines visual appeal and practicality. Because of its adaptability, it can easily fit into a variety of design schemes, whether your style preference is more classic or sleek and modern. You can improve the durability and aesthetic appeal of your spaces by making well-informed decisions by being aware of the various types of gypsum plaster and how they are used.

The simplicity of use of gypsum plaster is one of its main advantages. Compared to some conventional plaster types, it dries quickly, applies smoothly, and requires less maintenance. Because of this, it’s the perfect choice for hectic homes or businesses where maintenance and time are crucial factors.

Furthermore, gypsum plaster has superior insulating qualities that improve energy economy and comfort levels in the home. One major benefit for contemporary homes that prioritize comfort and sustainability is its capacity to control humidity levels, which aids in maintaining a healthy indoor climate.

All things considered, picking gypsum plaster for your interior renovations is a wise choice. It offers a variety of functional advantages and can accommodate different design tastes thanks to its assortment of types and finishes. Adopting this material will improve your area’s appearance and functionality while guaranteeing that your interiors will last for a long time.

Video on the topic

Why gypsum plaster comes off, falls off and peels off from the wall and from the concrete contact.