How to apply liquid wallpaper to the ceiling

Applying liquid wallpaper to ceilings is an artistic and multipurpose way to decorate walls. It’s a special material that combines the smooth appearance of plaster with the softness of wallpaper. Because liquid wallpaper has a warm texture and can conceal flaws, it is a popular choice among homeowners for ceilings.

With the correct equipment and direction, applying liquid wallpaper to the ceiling is a do-it-yourself project that just needs some basic preparation and a steady hand. Whether you’re finishing a new room or remodeling an older one, liquid wallpaper can give your ceiling a chic, comfortable appearance.

From surface preparation to the finishing touches, this article will walk you through every step of the procedure so you can confidently produce results that look professional. Let’s investigate how to get going!

Step	Description
1. Surface Preparation	Clean the ceiling of dust and debris, then apply a primer to ensure proper adhesion of the liquid wallpaper.
2. Mixing the Wallpaper	Follow the instructions to mix the liquid wallpaper material with water, ensuring a smooth consistency without lumps.
3. Application	Use a trowel to spread the mixture evenly across the ceiling in sections, smoothing it out as you go.
4. Finishing Touches	Once applied, use a plastic trowel to gently level and texture the surface as desired.
5. Drying Time	Allow the ceiling to dry completely, which can take up to 48 hours depending on room conditions.

Is it possible to apply liquid wallpaper to the ceiling

When unprocessed, the finishing material has a slight resemblance to a plaster solution. Even plastering tools are used to apply it, spreading it across the surface like a paste. The mass becomes a monolithic garment that covers up small flaws like large pores, small cracks, seams, scars, and scratches after it dries. The mixture’s fibrous inclusions give the surface a cloth-like appearance, which is why liquid wallpaper is also known as silk plaster.

The mixture sticks to surfaces made of various materials well and forms a strong bond because the basis of the viscous mass is an adhesive substance. Consequently, ceilings can be finished with silk plaster. Such a coating is "reinforced" throughout the entire volume because of the fibers, making the "vault of heaven" dependable and strong.

The cellulose filler in the adhesive base is what gave rise to the word "wallpaper" in the material’s name. Because of the fibers, you can use your hands to create decorative moldings in addition to applying an even layer of wallpaper on the ceiling. The mass can be applied with ease not only to level surfaces but also to ceiling structures of different shapes, such as moldings, arches, and intricately curved plasterboard spatial forms. The mass can be applied in an even layer.

The composition of silk plaster conceals part of its ability to create a unique decor. This includes the length of the suggested color scheme as well as the numerous effects produced by the decorative elements (mother-of-pearl, glitter, mineral grains, and various colored flakes). The creation of colored patterns or images, whether flat or relief, through a variety of processing techniques offers equally decorative possibilities.

How to apply liquid wallpaper to the ceiling

You must use the technology designed for that kind of building mixture in order to produce a high-quality coating. Thus, let us examine the fundamental guidelines that need to be adhered to when putting liquid wallpaper on the ceiling.

There are four major stages that the entire process can be divided into:

• preparation of the ceiling surface;
• preparation of the solution;
• application to the ceiling;
• drying the coating and finishing.

There are rigid guidelines that must be followed at every level, but there are also options available to the master when he or she has the option. This is already dependent on the particulars. Everything else, of course, is a broad canvas on which imaginative creativity can be expressed.

Utilization of the ceiling

What tools and materials may be needed

Materials for stain removal and neutralizing the source of the stain will be required at the initial stage. This is a primer, an antiseptic (for areas with mold or mildew), a metal-insulating sealant (to stop rusting metal from coming into contact with moisture), and a crack and pothole repair solution. Putty or paint may also be required (the base color may show through if the wallpaper layer is thin).

In order to finish the second step, you will need the liquid wallpaper itself (dry mix), warm water, water-soluble colorant, or, in the worst situation, at room temperature (the amount will be specified in the instructions). You will need to stock up on all the components ahead of time if you are making the composition using freely collected raw materials and independently acquired materials. When buying a dry mix, remember that you should buy all of the packages from the same manufacturer’s batch in order to avoid running out of stock.

If you have the supplies stocked for the first two steps and have made the mixture according to recipe, you will have all you need for the front half of the project. Paint or varnish will be the only addition (very infrequently) to provide a final layer.

Let’s talk about the tools now. In comparison to decorative plastering, the list is shorter. You’ll require:

• a plastic grater with a transparent working platform (if you don’t have it, you can use a metal one);
• plastic trowel (preferably transparent);
• spatula;
• for priming and painting you need a roller or a wide brush;
• tools or objects that can additionally shape the surface relief of the applied layer (textured rollers, stencil, brush, spoon, etc.).

To apply mechanically, get ready:

• hopper or texture gun;
• compressor.

• film (to protect adjacent or underlying surfaces, furniture);
• masking tape;
• pencil;
• roulette;
• portable light source;
• scaffolding (table or stepladder);
• containers (for kneading and water);
• clean rags.

Preparing the premises

First and foremost, you must make as much room as you can. In order to accomplish this, remove the furniture (the remainder is covered with film and moved to the center of the room to free up the corners). The chandelier is taken down, all wiring is de-energized, outlets and switches are taped shut, and the cables are insulated.

Additionally, cover the surfaces of door units, window sills, window frames, and floors with film (particularly if repairs are not planned).

Preparing the mixture

If a pre-made mixture is bought (in plastic buckets), it just needs to be manually combined before being applied.

Mixing the dry mixture is necessary. Warm water is added to the container to achieve this, measuring out half a liter less than the necessary volume rather than the full amount. After mixing, this "spare" volume will be required to control the material’s viscosity.

The only way to mix the mixture is by hand to prevent the fibers from clumping together and damaging the decorative elements.

Fill the container with all of the dry mixture powder from a single package. The powder is not cut in half to prevent a bad "surprise." Additionally, powders from various packages aren’t combined in a single batch. Knead the dry mass that has caked before opening the wrapping. Using your hands, thoroughly mix the mixture, kneading the lumps.

Addition of color and decorative elements that can be purchased separately:

• glitter and other decor – before pouring in the dry mixture;
• dye – during mixing.

Once the dough has been thoroughly mixed, move it into a plastic bag so that another batch can fit inside. Make sure to tightly seal it so that no outside air can enter, and then leave it for eight to twelve hours (or however long the instructions say). Blend it one more before using.

Whether any substance remains after application. A portion of the mixture can be mixed and then combined with the portion that was mixed earlier. Combine the two blends and cover them. The completed mixture kept in this form at room temperature will keep for at least two weeks. It can’t get too hot or frozen. If there is extra, it is dried, spread out in a thin layer on the film, sealed in a bag, and sealed. After soaking, these raw materials can be used again for repairs.

To ensure that there will be enough mixture to cover the entire ceiling, it must be prepared in advance of application. It will take longer for the missing portion to mature if you mix it. The previously applied mixture will dry during these hours, and in any case, the joint between the two mixtures will be visible. Furthermore, it will not be feasible to create a mixture that is precisely the same shade as the one that has already been applied. The ceiling will have ugly color shifts as a consequence.

Surface preparation

In a new building, the ceiling needs to be leveled and dried or plasterboard sheets need to be mounted before the silk plaster is adhered to. In areas where repairs are made, the previous coating is examined, whitewash, wallpaper, and a paint layer that has become unusable are removed. Repairs are done, peeling areas are removed, and the old plaster is tapped.

Particular attention should be given to the ceiling tile joints. If required, the joints are widened and fixed using a gypsum or cement-sand mortar and reinforced with plastic reinforcing mesh or serpyanka.

Stains are removed from the surface, extra hardware is taken out, and the remaining hardware is insulated. Take out the dust.

Using a brush or roller, apply the chosen primer composition in two layers. Apply the primer composition in layers, going in different directions; after applying each layer, let it dry completely. In order to account for potential translucency through the thin layer of wallpaper, the primer’s color is chosen to be either closely toned with the wallpaper or to have a white composition.

Applying the Ceresit CT17 primer is not advised as it could result in the appearance of yellowish spots.

Every ceiling material has different characteristics, so preparation is necessary and has its own subtleties.

Concrete

Putty with granular filler (starter) is used to fill in small irregularities. mixed concrete contact primer in two applications, applying the primer composition in different directions each time. Use a roller or, for best results, a brush for application.

Drywall

Leveling is not necessary for ceilings covered with plasterboard sheets. The sheet joints need to be paid attention to. The surfaces of the joints must be leveled and filled with putty using serpyanka. The plasterboard’s surface is primed two or three times after the putty dries. The transverse direction is where layers are applied.

To avoid wetting the cardboard shirt, the primer composition should not be heavily applied to the first layer. Primer needs to be applied completely, leaving no spaces between coats.

Natural wood, plywood

The worst-behaving wood is plywood when primer is not applied. As it dries, the veneer’s top layer contracts because it has taken up moisture from the liquid mass layer. The tree starts to "play" after absorbing moisture. Resinous materials and woody wood can be secreted. As a result, you require a unique primer. A primer from the acrylic group that is white or colorless and deeply penetrates the wood’s surface is appropriate.

Dye

Remove the old colorful layer first. You can use a grinder or spatula for this. It is pointless to remove paint if it adheres well and maintains its strength. After passing the layer through an emery once, it is sufficient to make it rougher. Dust is removed from the ceiling after the paint has been removed or scratched. They apply a primer only afterwards.

Technology for applying liquid wallpaper to the ceiling

The liquid wallpaper sticker is applied as follows:

• mechanically, using a cartouche gun with the largest nozzle (eyes and respiratory organs must be protected);
• stick small flat cakes simply by hand, leveling with a float or forming the texture with improvised means;
• apply the same way as plaster mortar, using a trowel or spatula (the most correct and most common method).

Use a trowel or float to apply liquid wallpaper to the ceiling, being careful to line up each stroke so that it covers the dry area next to it. Strokes are applied similarly to plastering when applying liquid wallpaper. In other words, move the tool to transfer the mass while angling its edge against the ceiling. Apply a layer with the appropriate thickness while keeping a specific distance from the tool’s cutting edge.

The outcome is influenced by the direction of the strokes. Thus, different patterns can be formed on the surface of the fibrous material by applying a circular or only longitudinal pattern. Thus, it is best to try "plastering" on a piece of fiberboard before making a decision. A trial application is also recommended when choosing the color dose.

When applying, avoid applying too much "coercion" to the material by not pressing with a tool.

Using a float, even out the silk plaster’s surface. If required, dampen the instrument with water. Use side counter lighting to regulate the application’s evenness.

Without taking a long break, all liquid wallpaper finishing of the ceiling surface should be completed in one sitting. It is therefore preferable to complete the "plastering" jointly if the task front is substantial.

If you are creating designs, you can take breaks by layering one color of liquid mass on top of another. Here, to prevent "staining" of the contour’s sides, masking tape strips are adhered along the edges of the pattern pieces.

The applied mass is left to dry naturally; do not install heaters or create drafts while the glue is polymerizing. The manufacturer specifies the time (approximate). Thick layers take longer to dry. It is best to let the ceiling dry for two to three days.

The hands’ awkward, perpetually raised position is the primary distinction from applying to the wall. Consequently, the hands become fatigued. When working with large volumes, keep this in mind.

Finishing

Painting or varnishing is the last step. Silk plaster loses multiple benefits simultaneously from the paint and varnish layer, which acts as a moisture barrier or decorative coating. It is preferable to avoid "breathing" ceilings in children’s rooms and other living areas. However, this might be the sole requirement for using silk plaster in the restroom, kitchen, or washroom. Furthermore, a coating of this kind is washable.

Water-based acrylic colorless varnish is appropriate for liquid wallpaper application. Using a brush or roller, the varnish is applied. The coating will actively absorb the first layer. Therefore, one varnish layer is insufficient to achieve the desired effect.

A useful way to cover flaws and add style and texture to the ceiling is to apply liquid wallpaper. Carefully cleaning and priming the surface is the first step in the process. Next, the wallpaper paste is mixed and spread evenly with a trowel or spatula. Even an inexperienced person can create a seamless, ornamental finish that improves the appearance of any space with the correct methods and meticulous attention to detail.

Pros and cons

It is advisable to weigh the main benefits and drawbacks of this finishing technique before deciding to apply liquid wallpaper to the ceiling.

In contrast to alternative finishing materials, liquid wallpaper is superior because:

• creates a monolithic coating without joints;
• non-flammable;
• light weight;
• plastic;
• forms a "breathing" vapor-permeable coating;
• ecologically harmless;
• have rich decorative possibilities;
• not affected by rot;
• strongly adheres to almost all base materials;
• repairable;
• pleasant to the touch and visually;
• odorless;
• additionally insulates the room and absorbs noise;
• universal in application methods;
• does not fade;
• antistatic;
• long service life;
• it is possible to prepare the mixture yourself;
• easy application (simple techniques, low weight);
• quick drying;
• no need for reinforcement or frame;
• not afraid of vibrations and temperature fluctuations.

There are not many drawbacks:

• sensitive to getting wet (this can be corrected by varnishing or painting);
• not suitable for outdoor conditions (can be used on insulated loggias), and also not applicable in damp rooms;
• high price of sold mixtures (self-prepared mixture is several times cheaper);
• less resistant to abrasion (this can be corrected by painting, varnishing, adding cement or acrylic putty to the mixture);
• cannot be washed unless varnish or paint coating is applied.

How to remove liquid wallpaper from the ceiling

The drawback of liquid wallpaper is that it can actively absorb water and become wet, as was previously mentioned. However, this characteristic proves advantageous when repairing a silk plaster ceiling. It is sufficient to completely moisten the layer and let the water work its magic to remove the previous layer. A spatula makes it simple to remove wallpaper that has softened.

Types of liquid wallpaper

For the first time, there are a variety of liquid wallpaper options available, each with a different composition and appearance. Different types of fibrous filler are used to categorize silk plaster.

The following mixtures are meant for ceilings and walls:

• combined;
• cellulose;
• silk;
• cotton.

With your own hands, you can also create a composition using the gathered raw materials. Dry mixes can be colored or are white.

Calculating the required amount of wallpaper

You said "a" after deciding to use your hands to apply "non-standard" wallpaper to the ceiling. In order to answer "b," you must first perform some preliminary calculations, namely figure out how much liquid wallpaper is needed for each ceiling in an apartment or individual room. Finding the area of the ceiling is an easy task. Simply multiply the room’s width and length.

The packaging lists the consumption numbers for each layer thickness, which is 2 mm. Taking into account that manufacturers list the approximate amount of material that skilled artisans can use on a perfectly level surface on the packaging, more material must be purchased. Typically, an additional 25–30% of the computed volume is bought "in reserve." The excess that results can be used to repair areas that were harmed during operation, so it won’t be thrown away.

1. We calculate the area of ​​​​a room 6 m long and 3 m wide. S = 5×3 = 18 m2.
2. One kg of the mixture (according to the manufacturer) is spent on 5 m2 (N), if you apply a layer of 2 mm. With the same layer thickness on the ceiling, you will need 2.5 packages. S:N = 18:5 = 3.6 pcs. (or 4 pcs.).
3. If you plan to apply a 1 cm layer, then a certain area must be multiplied by 5 (the number of 2 mm layers in a 10 mm coating). 18×5 = 90 m2. Then we divide 90 by 5, we get 18 packages
4. Minimum stock – 25% will be in the first case 0.9 pcs. (we accept 1 package, in total we buy 4 + 1 = 5 packages), in the second – 4.5 pcs. (we accept the required stock of 5 packages, but we buy 18+5=23 packages).

Although applying liquid wallpaper to the ceiling may appear difficult, it can be a rewarding do-it-yourself project if you take the proper approach. Careful mixing, uniform application, and extensive preparation are essential.

As each layer dries, patience is crucial. A smooth and aesthetically pleasing finish that improves the room’s overall appearance can be achieved by taking your time and carefully following each step.

After the project is finished, the ceiling has a distinctive texture that looks great. For ceilings, liquid wallpaper provides a decorative yet useful solution that blends fashion and utility.

Video on the topic

How to apply liquid wallpaper to the ceiling: advice from professionals

HOW TO APPLY LIQUID WALLPAPER TO THE CEILING? | CHANNEL DOMDOM.

How to apply liquid wallpaper to the ceiling

HOW TO APPLY LIQUID WALLPAPER TO THE CEILING | CHANNEL DOMDOM.