How to easily remove decorative plaster from walls

Although removing decorative plaster from walls can appear like an overwhelming task, it is much more manageable when done correctly. Knowing the right techniques can save you time and effort when updating your space or getting ready for a new finish.

Decorative plaster gives a room character and texture, but you’ll need to remove it carefully when it’s time for a change. Gaining an understanding of the fundamentals of surface removal will enable you to achieve a smooth surface on your upcoming project. We’ll walk you through easy ways to complete the task quickly in this guide.

We provide everything you need, including step-by-step instructions and tools and techniques. By using these pointers, you can remove ornamental plaster from your home with confidence and ease, giving it a brand-new appearance.

Preparing the room for removing decorative plaster

We make a space for ourselves and clear the area of any clutter before beginning repair work and removing the ornamental plaster. Everything that is still in the room needs to be secured.

  1. Since removing plaster is accompanied by a large amount of dust, debris, in the form of solid pieces of the removed coating falling from a height onto the floor, it is necessary to protect the floor and the remaining furniture. In some cases, the coating is wetted to facilitate dismantling. In this case, muddy water gets on the floor. Therefore, we take out what can be taken out, and protect the rest by covering it with film. Under the film on the floor, to protect linoleum or wooden parquet from damage by the sharp edges of the trim fragments, we lay out softening rugs, corrugated cardboard or other unnecessary sheet materials.
  2. We seal the windows and door panels with film, protecting them from splashes, dust and flying small fragments. We cover the door panels with stretch film. We seal the door frames with masking tape. When covering the window frames with film, we provide for the possibility of opening the window for ventilation.
  3. Remove lamps, sockets and switches from the walls. Be sure to de-energize all electrical wiring. If the electrical wiring goes on top of the finish, then it is better to separate it from the walls and roll it into a ring so as not to damage it. If we do not remove the lamps, for example, a chandelier, then we wrap it with cloth and film.
  4. We lay fabric, old wallpaper or cardboard on the window sills. To prevent the protective coating from shifting, press down on the edges with weighty objects.
  5. If there are other rooms adjacent to the premises being repaired, we protect them from dust. To do this, cover the cracks under the door block with mats.
  6. We think in advance about what to put the garbage in, as well as where to take it out. Since plastering materials are heavy, it is irrational to fill the bags completely. They are too heavy to lift. This means that you need to prepare quite a few bags. The amount of debris directly depends on the thickness of the coating and the size of the area that needs to be cleaned.
  7. Sometimes a paint coating or whitewash is applied over the decorative plaster. They are removed before dismantling the plaster layers.
  8. Portable lamps are prepared for work in the dark.

How to remove decorative plaster from walls

Solution-based plaster finishes can trail behind the base or stick firmly to the wall. The thickness of the coating and the materials can vary. This establishes the removal techniques.

Using hand tools from the home craftsman’s toolbox, remove the decorative plaster from the wall by hand if the area to be disassembled is small and the old coating is thin and adheres to the wall weakly.

These are wedge-shaped impact or pressure action instruments:

  • spatula;
  • scraper;
  • chisel;
  • axe;
  • hammer.

For mechanical removal, abrasive or impact action mechanisms are employed.

Preliminary soaking facilitates the work if gypsum or lime mortars are used for the interior decorative finishing. The coating becomes weaker and is simpler to peel off the wall when wet. Wet the surface for fifteen to twenty-five minutes with a brush or sponge, then rinse with hot water. If needed, repeat the soaking process.

The old plaster layer on the wall can be removed in any direction and from any starting point. Nonetheless, approaching this from the bottom of the wall makes more sense. The coating can then be removed from the areas above without being hampered by the attacking debris. We routinely remove debris so as not to impede yourself.

Since not all tools can remove the coating from areas that are difficult to access, wall cleaning techniques can be combined. The finish’s strength and the substance beneath it may differ. Take off the coating first, for instance, in the places where the plaster has crumbled. To accomplish this, tap with a hammer. A grinder is used when only a portion of the layer thickness needs to be removed.

Manual removal of the coating

We produce less dust and noise when we use a hand tool. We also don’t squander power. A worker does not need to lift and support a heavy mechanism while performing manual removal. The drawback is that cleaning takes longer.

Use the entire edge of the spatula plate or a corner to pry off a thin, brittle, poorly adherent coating. Use a hammer to tap the tool’s handle end to drive the blade deeper. Use an old chisel or other narrow tool in areas where it is difficult to bring the spatula.

Sanding of decorative coating and methods for its implementation

When handling the base carefully is necessary, sanding is used. For instance, if plasterboard partitions need their decorative plaster removed. Sanding is also done on walls embellished with Venetian plaster.

Carpenters and parquet layerers were the primary users of scrapers, which are narrow scrapers. A 1.5 mm steel plate with one side sharpened at a 30- to 45-degree angle served as the working component. The tool has an angled plate attached to a handle that you hold in your hand. The plate of the scraper is held perpendicular to the surface that needs to be treated. A thin layer of material can be scraped off by moving the tool parallel to the surface.

When removing a thin top layer, like paint or varnish, or when leveling the plaster finish, scraping the coating is used in a manner akin to that of sandpapering. Additionally, putty—which is occasionally used as decorative plaster—can be removed with a scraper. Starting small and progressively expanding, scraping is done. The surface is moistened to facilitate the removal of the layer.

Chisel and hammer

If the layer being removed is thicker and adheres firmly, these tools are used to remove decorative plaster from walls. Chips are removed using hammer blows and an angled chisel against the finish. The chisel tip is positioned at a certain distance from the edge of the old plaster, tilted at a 45-degree angle, and hammered on the head to increase the effectiveness of the chipping process. The blow causes the plaster to chip off and shift in the direction of the cleared area.

Using the same chisel, the monolithic coating is "cut" into squares or strips to facilitate disassembly more quickly. The adjoining plaster is chipped in the direction of the groove after it has first been knocked out to the top of the wall material.

Mechanical removal of the coating

It is possible to have small mechanization at home as well as on the construction site. Using mechanical tools, such as a grinder fitted with a specific abrasive disc or a hammer drill fitted with an attachment, you can quickly remove a coating that has already fulfilled its purpose.

The following can be used to remove layers of worn plaster:

  • a drill with impact action;
  • a grinder;
  • a hammer drill.

These days, "helpers" come with attachments for different kinds of tasks. Artificial plaster stone is destroyed by blows from a drill and hammer drill, which transfer force to the coating through pointed attachments. Plaster can be ground or cut using attachments by using the rotational motion produced by an angle grinder and a drill.

The tools also cause vibration to be transferred to the plasterer’s hands when they are in impact mode. Because of this, you must take breaks from working with them. One drawback of utilizing mechanisms is this.

The creation of dust clouds that accompany the work is an additional drawback. As a result, respiratory and eye protection are required. Skin protection from flying fragments is necessary. The wall is moistened in order to lessen the amount of dust formation.

Avoid using a hammer drill to clean a brick wall if at all possible. The spatula frequently chips off the brick edges and gets into the space between the bricks.

Grinding machine

The same type of angle grinder or class of similar tools. The people took over the long name and gave the angle grinder a name based on the nation that provided the USSR with the machines. Torque is produced by the angle grinder, and cutting or grinding is done with the rotating disk. Angle grinders can be powered by batteries, gasoline, electricity, or a compressor. The kind of engine determines how long it can run continuously. After operating for fifteen minutes, the weaker ones require a break to allow them to cool.

Angle grinder attachments are disks that are soldered around the edges for cutting or coated with abrasive for grinding. The finishing layer is removed with a hand tool by cutting it into squares using the second method after the first one is ground off. An additional attachment that you can use to link an angle grinder and a construction vacuum cleaner is a casing with a socket. Moreover, disks known as scrapers are available for removing very thin layers.

For grinding plaster, a stripping machine with toothed rollers on the sole works best. And a vibrating grinder machine for layer removals exceeding 3 mm.

Perforator

A perforator is the best tool for cleaning the wall if the old finish is not spent or loose. This method can have an impact when it is in detection mode. Where the plastered layer is thick and durable, the use of a perforator with a nozzle and chisel or chisel works particularly well.

The removal procedure is carried out as follows: the tool is held perpendicular to the wall and the stroke is sold to the base’s surface; the perforator is tilted 30 to 40 degrees toward the wall, and the shovel ships are aimed toward the plaster’s base.

How to remove Venetian decorative plaster

Subtlety is one of the characteristics of the Venetian finish deposits. Using a chisel to attempt to remove a thin layer of coating will harm the wall’s composition. Removing the finishing material by grinding or scraping is the only viable solution. For textured paints (paint compositions containing sawdust or quartz sand), a comparable solution is also employed.

For removal, sandpaper, a scraper, or a metal brush are used, depending on how strong the previous finish was. One type of mechanical tool is a grinder.

Step Description
1 Gather your tools: a utility knife, a scraper, a sponge, and a bucket of warm water.
2 Use the utility knife to cut around the edges of the plaster, creating a border for easier removal.
3 Soak the plaster with warm water using a sponge. This will help loosen the plaster from the wall.
4 Gently scrape the plaster off the wall with a scraper. Be careful not to damage the underlying surface.
5 Wipe the wall with a clean, damp cloth to remove any remaining plaster residue.
6 Allow the wall to dry completely before proceeding with any new finishes or repairs.

Although removing ornamental plaster from walls can appear difficult, it is possible to accomplish the task with the appropriate strategy. To determine the most effective removal technique, first evaluate the kind of plaster and the state of the wall. Making the right preparations guarantees a more seamless process, regardless of whether you choose to use a chemical remover, sand, or scrape.

The secret is to prepare. Wearing safety gear and covering the floor and furniture will help to keep the job less messy and safer. To get a clean surface, you may need to use a combination of techniques if you come across stubborn patches.

It may be necessary to make repairs and prepare the wall for painting or other finishes after the plaster has been removed. You’ll get the best results and prepare your walls for their next makeover if you take your time with each step.

Although removing ornamental plaster from walls can appear difficult, it can be simple and doable with the correct method. To begin, set up the workspace and collect the required supplies, including a drop cloth, solvent, and a scraper. Use water or a chemical remover to soften the plaster, then carefully scrape it off being as careful as possible to avoid damaging the wall underneath. These techniques will help you remove ornamental plaster from your walls and get them ready for a brand-new appearance.

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Elena Sokolova

Architect and interior designer with a deep interest in traditional and modern methods of wall finishing. On the site I share tips on choosing materials and techniques that help create a cozy and stylish space.

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