How to make a bas-relief on a wall with your own hands instructions for a beginner

You can turn a boring wall into a piece of art by adding a bas-relief to it. This ornamental method creates the illusion of three-dimensional design by molding or carving shapes into a wall. It’s a great way to give your house some character and texture without hiring an expert.

This tutorial will teach you how to create a bas-relief by hand. We’ll guide you through the supplies you’ll need and the detailed steps involved in achieving a stunning outcome. Making a gorgeous feature wall will be simple with the help of these instructions, regardless of your level of experience.

We’ll take care of everything, from designing your layout to plastering and adding the finishing touches. By the time it’s all over, your newly created, handmade wall art will be ready to dazzle your loved ones.

What is a bas-relief in a modern interior

The urge to create unique interior design for a house or workplace can be satisfied in a number of ways by employing diverse methods to modify the available space. Interior bas-reliefs can serve both practical and decorative purposes. For instance, they conceal utility network components or cover up flaws of other kinds, turning deficiencies into ornamentation. Relief images can be used to create links between zones or materials, visually distort the space, create contrasting or smooth transitions, and identify zones within a room. But stucco’s primary use is for facade or room decoration.

A bas-relief is a type of surface semi-sculpture in which the height above the base (or relief) does not exceed half the height of the volume of a full-fledged sculpture; in other words, high reliefs are used instead of bas-reliefs.

With the help of the bas-relief technique, you can produce images ranging in complexity from straightforward geometric convex figures to intricate landscapes with lots of little details. The relief image has an equally wide range of sizes.

Lighting (direction and degree of light scattering) draws attention to bas-reliefs. Lighting for low reliefs needs to be directed, sometimes at a specific angle of light ray incidence. Variability in the characteristics of the observable pattern is produced by the flux of light moving. When creating decorations with shadow bas-relief, this visual effect is employed. Higher-height stucco molding works well with diffused light.

Because bas-reliefs can have a variety of designs and patterns, they can be used for a variety of purposes and easily and naturally blend into various room design styles. You can choose a bas-relief decoration for a bedroom, kitchen backsplash, hallway panels, bathroom, or large hall (a panel, a small painting, an image that fills part of the wall, for example, a plaster tree). Decorations made of convex plaster work well on walls, ceilings, columns, and niches.

This kind of finishing is applied to small architectural forms, such as gazebos, in addition to rooms. Gazebos and retaining walls look good with relief decoration. Stucco can be used to decorate garage walls, loggia fences, facades, and more. All you have to do is select the appropriate materials for its application (interiors – those used within, street – street or universal).

Materials for creating a bas-relief

The ancients mixed lime, clay, and alabaster (gypsum) with sand or stone flour to create plaster reliefs. Clay was the first traditional modeling and plastering material. Stucco molding is waste-free, flexible, non-flammable, and environmentally friendly. It is also simple to maintain. Drawbacks: large weight, unappealing color, brittleness, and proneness to break when drying.

The inherent properties of gypsum material, such as its plasticity, quick hardening, shrinkage-free nature, and environmental friendliness, proved to be more successful. When diluted with water, gypsum powder creates a dough that does not shrink, allowing for the easy formation of the most exact patterned shapes and a smooth surface. Furthermore, the hardened gypsum is finely chopped and ground.

Relief images are created using papier-mâché. Cheap, lightweight raw material is molded by hand into a mass. The products are easily repairable, the material is eco-friendly, and it does not burden the base. A drawback is that only simple relief shapes can be created. Furthermore, papier-mâché is prone to burning.

Molded images can be produced with a variety of contemporary finishing mixtures. Putty is used as a raw material by amateurs or craftsmen to mix the molding mass and finish mixtures with polymers, such as acrylic plasters. For instance, the following mixture—which is measured by volume—is used successfully: one hour of architectural gypsum, one hour of acrylic plaster, and five hours of PVA glue. After adding water to the dry ingredients that have already been combined to achieve a kefir-like consistency, glue is added. The sculpting technique is taken into consideration when choosing viscosity.

Well-known companies’ gypsum putties are utilized without modifying their composition:

• Polish Acrylic Putty (acrylic putty, ready for use);
• Pufas (cellulose fiber-containing gypsum putty mixture);
• Rotband (used for layers adjacent to the wall, for the upper layers – Sheetrock);
• Knauf Uniflot (plastic, high-strength, allows you to create deep reliefs that hold without additional reinforcement);

You will require impregnating primers for stucco work. The selection of impregnations is based on the base material (wall). Use deeply penetrating impregnating agents for weak bases. Moisture protection is also used for loose bases, such as Pufas primer for wood and Aquastop for loose bases.

To get a rough adhesive surface when building a relief image layer by layer, you will also need to prime each putty layer. We require primers with a composition that deeply penetrates and saturates the laid layer. For every final and intermediate layer (prior to painting), deep penetration Ceresite or Pufas are appropriate.

A wall bas-relief can turn an ordinary space into a work of art, and even novices can produce amazing results with a few simple tools and supplies. You will be able to confidently take on this do-it-yourself project and give your house a distinctive, personalized touch by following this guide, which will take you through all the necessary steps and techniques for creating your own bas-relief, from planning and preparing the wall to applying and finishing the design.

Tools

Tools intended not only for application but also primarily for the formation of the mass to be laid are used to create the relief. While some tools can be made using what is already on hand, others will need to be purchased.

A half-regular rubber ball, for instance, works well as a kneading container. Turning it inside out makes it simple to arrange the entire mass and clean even from dried mortar. The time spent cleaning and kneading will be decreased with this ball.

Palette knives are specialized spatulas with a specific shape that are needed for sculpture. Their thin blades enable the creation of incredibly delicate patterns. Additionally, spatulas with tiny concave-convex blades are required. These can be made with tea, coffee, dessert, or plastic or aluminum spoons (varying sizes). For ease of use, the handles are curved and bent. For instance, the handles of plastic utensils are bent into the appropriate shape by heating them up close to the ladle. A wide-bladed shoe knife can be used in place of a palette knife.

Use pastry syringes for dosed or figured application of the mass, and disposable medical syringes with a 20 ml capacity (without a needle) for fine work. Taking trigger ones from pastry shops is advised.

Additionally, get ready the flat and round oil painting brushes. Purchasing pricey ones is pointless. For children’s drawings, a tiny nylon brush will also be useful. Texture application and plastering are done with brushes. For priming, a brush is required.

Additional instruments you’ll require:

• a metal trowel and a plastic spatula (the solution stretches well behind a plastic tool);
• medium-sized spatula;
• stacks;
• chisels (for carving on plaster);
• sandpaper or abrasive mesh;
• roller.

Brushes and palette knives are dipped in water prior to each application of the composition to ensure that the drying mass does not leave clots or scratches on the area being treated. After the formation process is finished, the tool is submerged in water and cleaned. Allow to air dry before storing or folding.

How to make a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands

Methods for creating a bas-relief using your hands:

Gypsum plastering involves covering a model with a layer of gypsum to create the desired shape. There is a difference between the first type of gypsum plastering—models that are free and not attached to the base—and the second type—models that are fixed to the base. After the gypsum dough has dried, the models are used in a plastered form to create a bas-relief rather than being taken out.

Reverse casting (the third type) is an additional method of part creation that involves removing a mold model after the mass has hardened. Initially, a model of the intended shape is created. After that, it is used to assist in the creation of a mold, into which the required parts will later be cast. A novice decorator can also use this method because it allows you to meticulously go over the model without worrying about making mistakes on the wall.

In reality, molding is done directly onto the base’s surface (the fourth type). Firsthand experience is required here. With this kind of method, you can make substantial bas-reliefs that overlap on nearby walls or the ceiling. For a beginner, practicing and getting used to working on training sheets (like plywood or plasterboard) is preferable.

Types 2-4 techniques are applied in two ways:

• immediately on site, creating a complete picture;
• in parts, subsequently assembled and mounted on the wall.

Plasterboard sheets that have been broken up are used as the substrate in the second option. Pieces of plasterboard are affixed to the base’s leveled surface following the application of the relief.

We provide a detailed explanation of the manufacturing process here:

1. Clean, level, primer the basic surface (preparatory work).
2. Apply a background basic texture.
3. Form using the above techniques, relief. Perform tinting if it is assumed by the plan.
4. After drying, surface staining is carried out.
5. Perform a latex coating.
6. Dry 1-2 weeks. Varnish.
7. With the help of lamps, create the desired angle of lighting.

The technology described here is comparable to this technology in its specifics. We shall thus discuss the subtleties there.

Preparatory work

The preparatory stage is included in any technology that is used to create bas-relief. To support a heavy bas-relief and guarantee safe operation, the base needs to be level, spotless, and robust. Carry out these actions:

• remove the worn-out finish (wallpaper, whitewash, paint, peeling plaster);
• clean the base from traces of oils, rust stains, foci of bio-growth, excess hardware (insulate those left);
• repair damaged areas – cracks, chips, depressions, joints;
• remove dust;
• prime and dry.

Work on leveling the surface if required. Additionally, plaster unattached models and create overhead non-removable models beforehand (using the first type of technique). Foam or salt dough is used to make berries, leaves, and petals on flowers. Prime, arid. Self-tapping screws should be used where thickenings are to be created to improve fixation.

Choose an image in advance, making sure its dimensions and placement match the room’s furniture. In other words, the composition is chosen before the three-dimensional image is created.

Apply a base coat if the storyline calls for creating a background texture (such as ornate travertine plaster). They use homemade materials (felt, foam rubber, and roller) to apply the desired texture on top of the "base." There is color in the base.

Creating and transferring a sketch

The drawing’s concept was chosen with the room’s intended use in mind. Thus, children’s rooms are decorated with creatures from fairy tales, the living room frequently features landscapes, and the kitchen draws owners in with a still life. Office and home plots are not the same. Should you possess the abilities of an artist, both the creation and the transfer of the sketch will be seamless.

Moving the drawing to the wall’s surface

The following techniques can be used by those who are beginning this type of work for the first time to transfer the drawing to the wall:

• on the printed picture and in the place of the future panel, draw grids of the appropriate scale, focusing on the cells, which are used to draw the outline of the pattern;
• the selected drawing is printed in full size on a printer;
• make holes on the lines of the printed picture, apply the picture to the wall, using cotton wool or a sponge dipped in coal powder, tamponing the holes, leaving black dots on the wall.

Every effort is made to ensure clarity in the sketch. It’s not necessary to draw the whole sketch at once for large panels. Just drawing the area to be decorated and marking the main lines will suffice.

Creating a reinforced frame

Making a custom frame on the wall might be necessary for a bas-relief that is exceptionally convex. It’s constructed out of wire. The aluminum wire frame for the branches is assembled, and the outgoing branches are screwed with soft copper wire. For low-relief panels, a cord is used in place of wire. The number of strands is progressively decreased along the cord’s length to produce a runoff. After dipping the cord into a gypsum mash, it is arranged according to the drawing’s lines. This is carried out horizontally (on the film). Once it has dried, the branch can be effortlessly extracted from the film and attached to the wall using a gypsum mixture.

In order to allow for sculpting, an indent of 1-3 cm is left along the contour (perimeter) for images that are higher than 20 mm. A bandage dipped in a kefir-consistency gypsum slurry is used to wrap the wire frame. The bandage that is dipped is the roll—smaller ones should not be rolled up.

We form the main relief

We use a handy tool to apply the putty to the base. Several passes of the solution are applied to the thickening areas. The tops of the underlying layers are not leveled for improved adhesion. Parts of the pattern are applied. Large tools are used to create the main relief, such as trowels, staples, and occasionally a master’s hands.

Place the screws evenly over the area if the "high" section has a large area. Tighten the screws so you can use them as a reference when you apply layers (keeping in mind that you want to leave about a centimeter above their heads for molding).

Separately manufactured components are fastened to the wall at the same time. Gypsum is used to cover the joints. Use sandpaper to level after it has dried.

Constructing the bas-relief 2’s extensive details

Formation of small details

We form the surface without setting it aside where the desired layer height is reached. Small details are then designed, and finally, the surface texture. Here, brushes, palette knives, and syringes are required. To remove excess (not yet hardened) mass, use a knife.

Given the time-consuming nature of designing and drawing "little things," you shouldn’t plan on needing a lot of solutions for minor details.

Making a panel with a ton of details is not always the goal. When creating details in a shallow relief, we gather a small amount of material on a trowel and then move the composition to the wall. To achieve a strong bond, we attempt to smear the mass when applying. We use a palette knife to apply the solution to small, narrow details. After applying the mass, we shape its surface using instruments like palette knives, chisels, and scalpels that can create a fine pattern.

Correction with chisels

Use cutters (a chisel, scalpel, knife, etc.) to highlight the bas-relief and clearly show the pattern lines on the wall. Wood carving chisels are a handy tool for cutting gypsum. This material’s feature enables you to rectify intricate shapes and make incredibly fine patterns.

Grinding

The panel’s surfaces are smoothed and roughness is removed using sandpaper and old needle files. Not much force is required to grind gypsum compositions. Dust should be swept away. The panel’s surface is primed after it has dried.

Suggestion: If stripes still show after sandpapering, coat the sculpture with a diluted liquid gypsum mixture to get rid of them.

Painting

The play of shadows, which is most noticeable when using a monochrome color, makes bas-reliefs valuable. However, painting or tinting the image may be necessary depending on the designer’s plan. Wait until the stucco is completely dry before painting, and then apply another coat of paint over it.

For gypsum stucco, specific paints are utilized. After painting, quickly blend with a wet sponge to create delicate halftones. Acrylic paints are used when crisp color transitions are required.

On dried gypsum, paints deteriorate. Color restoration is aided by latex treatment. To restore the color, a composition of butadiene and styrene latex is used. The extra latex is absorbed and goes away. One to two weeks can pass before polishing the surface.

Organization of lighting

Reviving the relief panel requires competent lighting. Plan your lamp placement in advance because hidden wiring must be installed to attach the light source to the wall before any stucco work can begin. Also, make sure the lamps you buy have the right power and style. The lamps that are used shouldn’t be overly bright.

Generally, the light is aimed vertically (the most natural direction is from top to bottom), which gives the impression of the image being separated from the wall without making it appear bulky. The panel is occasionally lit from the side. Lighting that is directed upward from the bottom gives the impression of grandeur and mass.

Lighting is provided by LED strips and LED linear spotlights. The plot or decorating style of the room informs the choice of lamp design.

Advantages and disadvantages of a bas-relief on the wall

Values of bas-reliefs include:

• effectiveness – the play of shadows creates a special feeling of space, which changes when switching lamps;
• the opportunity to show originality;
• inventively decorate surfaces that are usually "in disrepair" – arches, niches, fireplaces;
• the ability to hide uneven walls;
• create a connection between the zones with a smooth transition between them.

There are a few drawbacks as well:

• complexity of execution for a beginner;
• difficult to repair (in case of damage);
• when ordering from specialists, it will be expensive;
• dust quickly accumulates on the patterned surface.

Bas-relief on the wall photo ideas

Our prepared photo selection will benefit from knowing how to create a bas-relief on the wall and gathering inspiration. By watching the videos, you can also acquaint yourself with the master class on creating a bas-relief.

Features of creating a bas-relief from different materials

Stucco is used as a decorative element under various circumstances. Because the house’s bas-relief is on a wall and is subject to heavy precipitation, cement has been used in place of gypsum. The concept of making a panel out of polyurethane foam is also intriguing.

From cement

For panels, putties made of cement rather than gypsum are another option. However, plaster made of cement or cement-polymer is more practical. The composition is heavier, less plastic, shrinkage prone, and does not harden as quickly. This causes some challenges when compared to gypsum mass. As a result, it is preferable to leave the task to the experts rather than trying to create a bas-relief on the wall yourself.

Based on polyurethane foam

Large-scale element creation times can be shortened and decoration weights can be decreased with the use of contemporary materials. Thus, using polyurethane foam, artisans create fixed models that are then painted and covered in plaster. We advise novices to watch the video to become familiar with the method.

Step	Description
1	Prepare your wall by cleaning it and fixing any imperfections.
2	Draw the design for your bas-relief on the wall.
3	Apply a base coat of plaster and let it dry completely.
4	Start sculpting your design into the plaster using tools like spatulas and brushes.
5	Allow the sculpted plaster to dry, then sand it smooth if needed.
6	Paint or finish the bas-relief as desired to complete the look.

Making a bas-relief for your wall is a fun do-it-yourself project that gives your room a distinctive look. Even as a novice, you can accomplish professional-looking results by adhering to these easy steps. From designing your layout to plastering it on, never forget to take your time.

Don’t be scared to try new things and make changes as necessary. The appeal of a bas-relief is that it’s a very adaptable art form that lets you express your individuality and inventiveness. You can improve your technique by practicing, so keep getting better at it with every project you take on.

You’ll discover that constructing a bas-relief can be an enjoyable and rewarding way to adorn your walls with a little perseverance and work. Savor the procedure and be proud of the quality of your work!

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