How to make decorative plaster for brick for interior wall decoration in the interior?

Any interior can benefit from the warmth and character that decorative plaster that resembles brick can bring. For individuals who desire the allure of exposed brick without the inconvenience of actual bricks, it’s a well-liked option. This method lets you create a personalized look that fits your style and is also reasonably priced.

Using the appropriate supplies and a little perseverance, you can give your walls the appearance of real brick. Plaster is applied in layers, and then meticulous detailing is done to highlight the depth and texture of actual bricks. Brick decorative plaster can be a flexible option whether you’re going for a modern, industrial, or rustic aesthetic.

Step	Description
1. Surface Preparation	Clean the wall and apply a primer to ensure better adhesion.
2. Apply Base Coat	Spread the first layer of plaster evenly to create a smooth base.
3. Create Brick Pattern	Use a stencil or tape to outline the brick shapes, leaving gaps for the mortar lines.
4. Add Texture	Apply a second layer of plaster, filling in the brick shapes with a textured finish.
5. Remove Stencil or Tape	Carefully remove the stencil or tape before the plaster dries completely.
6. Finish and Paint	Once dry, sand any rough spots, and paint the plaster to match your desired brick color.

Methods for imitation brickwork

Products that were bought.

For interior decoration, ready-made items made of a variety of materials are available for purchase. These are the following:

• embossed wallpaper,
• plastic panels,
• flexible, ceramic and clinker tiles
• gypsum plates.

Self-produced goods.

Moreover, decorative bricks are produced separately to lower costs:

• cutting them out of polystyrene foam or corrugated cardboard,
• sawing natural building bricks with a grinder or circular saw,
• casting gypsum plates in plastic molds.

The blanks are adhered to the wall in the proper sequence using glue.

• A brick-masonry look is also obtained by depicting the masonry by applying a pattern to the wall. For this, rollers, ready-made or homemade stencils are used.
• To obtain the desired decor, the plaster can also be removed from the brick walls of the apartment. In this case, after cleaning the wall, the natural texture of the masonry is revealed.
• However, imitation brick for interior decoration is often done using textured plaster. At the same time, large areas are covered with decor quickly and look neater.

Videos demonstrating how to make brick-like plaster with your hands have been added below the article.

The main advantages of plaster decor for brick

Every finish has benefits and drawbacks.

Benefits of decorative brickwork plaster include:

1. Low weight of the coating – compared to natural brick execution, does not overload the load-bearing elements of the building structures;
2. Imitation of brick from plaster solutions is highly durable, resistant to various types of mechanical damage;
3. Making a brick wall with your own hands is easy and simple. You can save on the services of specialists;
4. Imitation brick looks great in the interior of rooms of various styles (from loft to gothic);
5. Can be used for interiors or for the facade;
6. No special maintenance is required during operation;
7. The decor can be changed when changing the interior by painting in any color.

Brick finishing has additional drawbacks.

1. The need for more frequent removal of dust accumulated by the relief;
2. The possibility of performing work only at temperatures above +10 C;
3. The need to knock down the relief coating when changing the surface texture.

Here are some instructions for creating a hand-made replica of a brick wall.

What is required for plastering under a brick?

Naturally, creating a brick imitation with your hands calls for the right equipment, supplies, and tools.

For any wall-decorating technique, you’ll need:

• containers for water and preparing the mixture,
• spatulas for applying the decorative mixture to the wall,
• rule,
• trowel,
• tape measure,
• masking tape,
• brush,
• cutter,
• trowel,
• pencil for marking,
• laser or bubble level,
• mixer for mixing the mixture,
• roller for priming or varnishing,
• brush,
• rag,
• cord,
• film to protect the floor.

Depending on how you plan to make bricks by hand for the wall, you might require:

• roller or stencil for plaster under the brick,
• scraper – a tool with which the jointing is performed,
• metal lath for stuffing the rustication.

Additional equipment, like gloves, a respirator, and a sponge, might be needed.

Preparing the wall for work

• Old finishing (tiles, wallpaper, cracked paint, etc.).d.) remove;
• Check the curvature of the wall surface, if necessary – make a correction, leveling the walls with a building cement or gypsum plaster mortar;
• Chips, potholes and cracks are repaired;
• Apply a primer to improve adhesion.

While cracks and other large flaws can be effectively concealed by brick plaster, larger flaws should never be left unattended. These damages will eventually spread to the coating if they are not repaired.

For interior walls, you can create a decorative plaster that looks like brick by using the right materials, doing the right preparation, and using a few key techniques that will guarantee a realistic and long-lasting finish. Even novices can complete this process, which adds a touch of industrial or rustic charm to any space.

Selection of material for creating imitation

Different building solutions are used for decorative finishing. Gypsum can be used to mimic the appearance of white brick. A plaster mixture consisting of regular acrylic putty mixed with sand works well as a textured base for imitation.

Generally speaking, you need a good plaster mixture with good adhesion (adhesion), workability, and a setting mode appropriate for applying the relief in order to create a high-quality imitation of any brickwork with your hands. Silicate or silicone polymers are the binding components of ready-made compositions that are sold. These compositions’ high plasticity, strength, and adhesiveness make them easy to lay. They also have excellent resistance to moisture. They also have additives that are antifungal and anti-mold.

There are numerous recipes available for creating adornment pieces at home. You must understand how to properly make plaster for these works in order to accomplish this. Making the mixture yourself will also result in additional savings. DIY The steps listed below are used to prepare decorative plaster: The dry ingredients are combined, the container is filled with water and color, and an electric mixer is used to mix the decorative mixture.

Moreover, the finish can be formed using tile adhesive as a foundation.

It is not possible to combine compositions made with different binders. This results in a significant decrease in the decorative coating’s strength.

A sample of one of these compositions is:

• 1 part cement
• 3 parts sand
• Per bucket up to 2 liters of tile adhesive. Add adhesive by eye.

Video. Decorative plaster for brick

Creation technology

It is important for novices and experts alike to understand that there are several techniques for applying decorative plaster in the shape of a brick surface.

For instance, a metal strip with a thickness of between 5 and 15 mm is stuffed to create rustication on the base:

1. The applied facade plaster from cement-sand mortar is marked;
2. A strip is placed on the line and pressed into the surface with hammer blows;
3. Then very smoothly, carefully, the strip is removed;
4. The surfaces of the resulting large "bricks" are given a stone texture before the plaster dries.

There’s a method where you can use your hands to make a brick wall out of plaster by pounding a thick cord into a grid pattern. In order to accomplish this, the middle of the cord is pulled and released, and the cord is pulled along the future seam (two assistants are required). A deep strike with the rope creates a hollow in the stucco.

The following are less sophisticated and more widely used techniques than the above ones:

• Scribing or kneading the seam (with a sharp object – a knitting needle, scraper, wooden stick, etc.d.);
• Formation of seams with tape;
• Applying an imprint.

General instructions, step-by-step:

1. First of all, we prepare the base on which the brickwork will be carried out with your own hands.
2. We make the marking of the wall necessary for the chosen method.
3. We prepare a solution for imitation from putty, a ready-made mixture or make up a plaster mass ourselves. The ready-to-use mixture should be thick enough so that it slowly slides off the spatula, but does not flow or fall off in pieces.
4. If necessary, paint the mixture by adding color.
5. On the prepared area of ​​the wall, apply the solution of the solution and process the layer in the chosen way. Plastering site only of the area that we can fully process before the layer drying out.
6. Let the layer dry out and make the finish finish.

Let’s go over each step in more detail.

Wall marking

Marking must be done beforehand if you want to replicate a brick wall with plaster solution, gypsum, tile glue, or putty using your hands. For imitation, the meokurpic seam width is typically measured in the range of 10 to 15 mm, while the bricks’ actual dimensions are either nearly or exactly the same. However, you can mimic masonry and other fundamental sizes.

Sometimes preliminary calculations are required. This is the method used when it’s necessary to fit entire rows in height or simulate masonry at projecting corners. The long side of the brick should then be on one wall, and the short side (pumpkin) should be on the next wall.

On the basis, a grid is drawn following computations. You can use a pencil for this. The longitudinal rows have to be exactly horizontal, just like in a real wall. As a result, a bubble level is used to ensure the horizontal and vertical seams during marking.

Sticking on tape is another method of marking work. Further details are provided below. Gypsum plaster can be worked with using office tape. Use masking tape for other compositions.

Imitation of a brick wall using masking tape

1. The surface is prepared (small irregularities do not require cleaning), primed, marked, and strips of masking tape are glued (horizontal, then (on top of them) – vertical).
2. Mix the plaster mixture or a single-color or colored putty solution.
3. The solution is applied to the resulting mesh. It is smoothed out and textured.
4. When the plaster dries a little, the tape is removed and grooves remain on the layer – inter-brick depressions. Irregularities are corrected.
5. When the layer is completely dry, the finishing is done – painting, waxing or varnishing.

This method of imitating brickwork can be done without the need for a specialized tool; all that is needed is persistence and accuracy.

A full process video.

Brickwork with gypsum plaster in a loft design

Gypsum plaster decorative stone is an inexpensive and reasonably easy way to create a finish that resembles brickwork. This technique is comparable to the previously mentioned one, but it uses regular tape and a fast-drying gypsum mixture for finishing.

Using a bubble level, the primed wall is drawn "under the bricks" of natural sizes (250 x 65 mm), inevitably accounting for the 1 cm seams between the bricks.

Packing tape strips 1 centimeter wide are used to create seams.

To accomplish this, cut the tape roll into four rings using a grinder equipped with a concrete or ceramic disc (the metal disc melts the tape when it overheats).

For a natural texture, the edges of the strips should be uneven. Horizontal strips are first adhered to the wall, with extra ends left over for simple removal later on. On top of them, vertical strips are adhered (this is mandatory).

Beacon strips are fastened to the wall on the gypsum strokes in order to regulate the thickness of the layer of gypsum mixture.

Microfiber-infused plastic gypsum mixtures are the best options. Avoid diluting the solution excessively. The consistency of the solution shouldn’t be overly liquid or thick.

A rule is used to level the applied gypsum mass, beacons are eliminated, and any gaps left behind are then filled with gypsum. You don’t need a smooth surface for this. On the other hand, it will be necessary to add more texture, which is accomplished with the aid of a balled-up plastic bag.

Pull the tape perpendicular to the surface after a short while (the plaster needs to be just starting to set). Using a damp brush, the resulting bricks are rounded, attempting to prevent sharp corners. The gypsum plaster is painted with PVA in two layers once it has dried.

The video walks viewers through the entire process in detail.

Using a stencil

A cheap, easy way to replicate brickwork using plaster. It needs a plastic or rubber stencil. You must pay close attention to detail and accuracy to make sure that there is no vertical displacement and that the horizontal lines are connected.

This is how the work is completed:

1. A plaster layer of at least 4-5 mm thick is applied to the base to obtain an expressive texture;
2. The stencil is moistened with water so that it does not stick to the solution, applied to the surface of the solution and pressed, carefully removed from the solution with a smooth movement; It is moistened again, applied, pressed and removed (if necessary, the imprint is immediately corrected);
3. Finally, the resulting masonry is primed and painted, covered with wax.

The second method is to use a "middle" stencil (a bit like the masking tape technique). The stencil itself is cut out of linoleum. The cut mesh is attached to a wooden frame so that it can be used to remove the mesh from the stack. A layer of solution is applied to the base. Level up. A stencil is placed on top of it so that the linoleum mesh is adjacent to the surface. A new layer with a thickness of up to 0 is applied on top of the stencil.5 cm. Smooth and give the surface texture (with a brush, a bag, hands). Carefully remove the stencil and correct flaws. After the solution has dried, the layer is smoothed with a trowel, removing burrs with a brush or grater.

With your own hands, you can create a brick stencil for plaster.

An unique characteristic of brickwork is the deeper lines found in the masonry joints. This is what the brick plaster stencil ought to leave in its wake.

When creating a stencil, two requirements have to be fulfilled:

• The seams between the rows of bricks should be strictly horizontal;
• bricks in the neighboring rows should be located with dressing.

As a result, a stencil that mimics a brick wall is made up of both vertical and horizontal stripes. stripes with a maximum width of 10 mm. Brick sizes are completely customizable.

You’ll need leaf plastic for manufacturing (the size of the substrate for the adhesive film is adequate for producing a large stencil). After transferring the drawing to plastic, "bricks" are cut out with a modeling knife or a scalpel. There is still a grid that serves as a stencil after the work is finished.

A thin linoleum stencil can be cut. Yet, a device like that cannot be mounted on the wall. As a result, it is supported by a wooden frame (which takes the shape of a box with low walls). Applying the solution will require cooperation from both of you; one should spread the solution while holding the frame.

Plastering beneath a brick with a homemade stencil: steps involved:

1. The wall is primed and dried.
2. A stencil is attached to the wall surface.
3. The solution is applied with a spatula over the stencil mesh.
4. The surface of the bricks is “designed” with a sponge, brush or other auxiliary means, giving the desired texture.
5. After this, the stencil is removed without waiting for the solution to set.
6. The fringed rollers that appear along the edges of the bricks are smoothed with a damp brush while they are wet. You can take your time, and clean the hardened solution later with sandpaper or an abrasive mesh.

In the event that work pauses, mortar residues are removed from the stencil. Washing plastic and linoleum prevents mortar lumps that have hardened later from interfering.

Formation of individual bricks

Using a scraper, remove the seams to plaster beneath a brick. Finishing like this is a lot like making wild stone. After a brief pause, when the applied layer has had a chance to dry slightly, formation is completed using a scraper. Using a rule or rail, you can first mark the seam lines with a pencil. Alternatively, you can make notches immediately by putting the rule on the surface and scraping along it.

Starting with horizontal lines to notch the seams is advised. After that, plan the vertical seams. Using a dry, soft cloth, finish cutting the notch and remove any leftover mixture from the bricks’ edges.

The working composition for this kind of decoration can be applied to the wall’s whole surface. You can bend a steel strip and fasten it to the handle of a narrow chisel to create a scraper or other device.

Using a special roller technology + video

Using a roller to create embossment for decorative plaster is another method to replicate brickwork. The roller is rolled horizontally to give the wall a particular texture. You can obtain seams in the shape of recesses from two to four rows of masonry in a single pass.

When the roller is pressed with consistent force and movement speed, a solid canvas is produced. Using a spray bottle, you can moisten the solution with water prior to using the roller for improved rolling. As you roll, make sure that the vertical seam offset required for each row follows. One can either buy or make a decorative brick roller themselves.

One needs a "stuffed," firm hand when using a roller. Practice before tackling large areas.

Making a roller for brick with your own hands

A homemade tool can also be used to form plaster for brick. It is very easy to make a decorative roller for brick with your own hands as a basic tool for imitation brickwork. The cost of this type of roller will be lower than that of a branded one, and production time will be minimal. Maybe once you’re familiar with the manufacturing processes, you’ll come up with an alternate idea for using the materials on hand to create a device.

Method 1: To make a brick roller, you’ll need a cup of soapy water, a roller (new or old), a standard sealant, and an additional rod for when you’re using the roller.

1. Remove the tubular part of the roller from the handle. Put it on the rod and place it on two supports.
2. Apply a layer of sealant to the roller, which we distribute evenly over the roller. You can use a plastic card for this. After distributing the sealant, wet your fingers in soapy water and press down slightly the sharp protrusions of the sealant.
3. Having marked the middle of the cylinder, apply a strip of sealant that will imitate the masonry joint. Apply two similar strips along the edges of the cylinder. Having wetted your fingers, smooth out the sharp protrusions.
4. Apply two longitudinal lines, one between the first two rings of the seams, the second – on the diametrically opposite side of the cylinder in the second gap between the rings. Also soften the protrusions.

Give the product time to dry. Install on the handle after removing from the rod. We can now get to work.

Invest in a wallpaper (pressure) roller (method 2). For this task, you’ll need a metal ruler, marker, stationery, or mock-up knife. Take out the brick roller’s cylindrical portion from the handle, place it on the rod, and mount it to the supports.

1. First, mark the cylinder, drawing the lines of the masonry joints and lintels between them. As in the previous case, the lintels need to be marked on opposite sides to imitate brickwork with bond.
2. Use the sharp tip of the knife to make cuts 2 mm deep, without going onto the lintels. Our task is to remove the top layer where the brick imprint will be.
3. Carefully cut the layer at an angle to start cutting off the top. Grasping the edge of the material to be cut and bending it away from the roller, cut (as 2 mm thick sandpaper) plate in place of the brick. Also “remove the skin” in place of the second brick.
4. We adjust the cut location (remove particularly protruding sharp tubercles).

The roller is ready once the homemade item is attached to the handle.

In order to prevent the plaster solution from sticking to the stamping portion, wet the roller with soapy water before applying a pattern to the wall.

Method 3: Get ready for work with a rubber roller, rubber glue, and 10 mm thick sheet rubber. The length of the cylindrical portion determines how many "bricks" can fit on it. Let’s take an example of a roller that can accommodate the imprints of two bricks.

1. Degrease the rubber surface of the cylinder so that the glued strips hold tightly. We do the same on one side of the rubber sheet.
2. From the rubber sheet, cut off 3 strips up to 10 mm wide (for seams). The length of the strips is greater than the length of the circumference of the roller cylinder. Two more strips (shorter) will be used to form jumpers.
3. Using a ruler, we find the middle of the roller and draw a line of the middle masonry seam. We glue long strips along this line and along the edges of the cylinder. At the junction of the strips, we ensure that the upper part of the strips is not stretched, but joined without tension (cut the ends of the strips at a certain angle).
4. We glue the jumpers.
5. So that the rings and jumpers easily come out of the plaster composition when rolling, we cut the edges of the strips at an angle with a sharp knife.

We can use the roller once the glue has strengthened.

Finishing

Glossing can start after the final layer has become stronger. Eliminate any pellets, sharp edges, and drips that cause the design to be disturbed. Use some sandpaper for this. Following this processing, a brush is used to remove dust.

The decorative plaster’s surface should then be painted and primed. Using a brush is preferable to using a roller as this could leave unpainted areas. The painting may have a single color scheme or use a different color to emphasize the seams. It is also possible to make the bricks themselves multicolored. The more color, the more the fake brick resembles the real thing.

First, the entire surface is painted and given a general primer. A narrow brush is used to paint the seams after the initial coat of paint has dried. The varnish coating is the finishing layer that is on top. Without it, the dust and absorbed vapors cause the decorative coating to quickly turn dark. Because varnish has a high level of moisture resistance, you can wash the wall while it’s working.

A room can gain a great deal of character by using decorative plaster to turn a plain wall into a feature that resembles brick. This method offers greater design and finish flexibility in addition to saving money on actual brick.

With the correct equipment and supplies, you can create a gorgeous brick effect that will give your room a distinctive and fashionable appearance. Although the project calls for some patience, the outcome is well worth the work.

With decorative plaster, you can create the ideal atmosphere in your home, whether your style is modern industrial or rustic charm. You can see how satisfying it can be to create your own brick-style walls by giving it a try.

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