How to plaster walls with your own hands

Although plastering walls oneself can seem difficult, anyone can accomplish the task if they take the proper approach. Acquiring the skill of plastering allows you to accomplish a polished, seamless finish on your home renovation or even just minor touch-ups without having to hire a contractor.

You will be guided step-by-step through the process by this guide, which will make sure you have all the hints and techniques required for a project’s success. You’ll acquire the self-assurance necessary to tackle this satisfying do-it-yourself project, from surface preparation to plaster application.

So gather your tools and let’s get to work changing your walls!

Step	Description
1. Prepare the surface	Clean the wall of dust and debris. Apply a primer for better adhesion.
2. Mix the plaster	Follow the instructions on the plaster package. Mix until you get a smooth consistency.
3. Apply the first layer	Using a trowel, apply a thin layer of plaster to the wall. Start from the bottom and work your way up.
4. Smooth the surface	Use a straightedge or trowel to smooth the plaster. Remove any excess material.
5. Let it dry	Allow the first layer to dry completely before applying the second layer.
6. Apply the second layer	Repeat the application process, making sure the surface is even and smooth.
7. Finish	Once the plaster is dry, sand it lightly to remove any imperfections. Your wall is now ready for painting or other finishes.

Why do you need to plaster walls in an apartment

Even an interior designed in the loft style is merely a concrete plaster imitation of raw wall surfaces. In an apartment, plastering walls provides a comprehensive solution to a number of issues.

• strengthens brickwork;
• protects concrete, aerated concrete surfaces from moisture penetration from the air;
• prevents the formation of fungal or mold damage;
• protects wood from cracking, rotting, insects, rodents;
• levels uneven surfaces of walls, ceilings;
• serves as additional insulation;
• absorbs noise;
• creates a comfortable microclimate in the apartment;
• monolithizes the interior surface of the apartment, sealing the seams and joints of structures;
• protects wood from fire;
• protects building structures from external influences;
• levels surfaces in accordance with state standards, as a result of which it is easier to clad with tiles or plasterboard, wallpaper, paint.

Plaster cladding replacement or repair is less expensive than replacing a wall or partition. The service life of contemporary plaster compositions is at least 25 years, which pleases with its durability. Numerous issues can be resolved at once when a house’s walls are plastered.

Main types of plaster

Plastering compounds have been used for construction and finishing since ancient times. Stucco, from the old Latin name, is still in use today.

Among the plaster compositions are:

• for interior finishing;
• for plastering facades;
• universal use.

Plaster will be discussed next in relation to finishing interior walls.

Final answers consist of:

• decorative,
• regular,
• special.

For rough plastering of walls and ceilings, regular compositions are utilized, along with monolithic joints.

Plaster finishing options vary depending on the surface quality and can include:

• high-quality – finishing of walls ready for painting or wallpapering, performed by splashing, multi-layer application of primer and final covering;
• improved – for utility rooms in residential buildings, as well as for rough finishing, consists of three layers – splashing, primer (base layer), covering, leveled with a rule and rubbed with a trowel;
• simple plaster, consisting of two layers – splash and primer, applied without hanging, leveled with a trowel, used for plastering basements, warehouses, utility rooms.

To finish, decorative compositions with varying textures and colors are utilized instead of painting, cladding, or wallpaper. For some tasks, specific plaster compositions are utilized. For instance, they are utilized for treating damp walls in a home (sanitizing), adding more thermal insulation to an apartment (thermal insulation plaster), and shielding medical equipment from ionizing radiation.

Plaster solutions consist of fillers, water (or solvent), binders that form the base, and functional additives. Plaster compositions are categorized according to the type of base because the primary constituents are binders that, when hardened, resemble stone or plastic.

Next, we’ll talk about regular plasters.

Cement

It is evident from the name that cement serves as this type’s primary binder. Cement and sand is the most basic combination for plaster. The finish is low cost, frost resistant, and long-lasting. Ideal for plastering both indoors and outdoors. Application by hand or by machine is feasible. accessible as dry mixes (DM), which come with modifying additives. One can prepare the solution by hand.

Cement-lime

Long before cement was created, people started using lime as a plastering material. Plastering mortars made of lime are very flexible. Because of this property, lime is added to cement-lime mortars as an extra binder.

One can apply plaster by hand or with a machine. Either the composition is made on your own, or you buy a ready-made dry plaster mix. used for both ornamental and coarse finishing. Ideal for completing wood surfaces.

Gypsum

Natural material, plastic that is simple to lay. more costly than the earlier plaster mixtures, but with benefits. High-quality plastering of walls in rooms with normal humidity is accomplished with gypsum compositions. Additionally, decorative SS are made. both automated and manual application. suitable for foam concrete.

Clay

Natural binder, not just for homes in the country. Because clay is eco-friendly, it contributes to the home’s ideal microclimate. It is possible to apply clay plaster coating by hand. Almost no waste exists. It is possible to resoak, combine, and apply dried mortar to the base. reusable.

Decorative

The widest variety of plastering materials is found in this type. Numerous businesses, including French, German, Italian, and Russian ones, produce ready-made solutions and SS. produced using polymer, silicate, mineral, acrylic, and silicone bases. Terrazzo compositions that are colored, structured, textured, and made of pebbles exist.

Which mixture is best to use for the job

A number of factors influence the mixture selection for plastering:

• base material;
• purpose (technical for leveling or finishing);
• degree of unevenness of the base (large or small differences);
• requirements for resistance to a humid environment (high or normal humidity);
• operating conditions (whether the environment is chemically aggressive, temperature conditions);
• strength characteristics (speed of strength gain and grade);
• difficulty of performing plastering work (may be decisive for beginners or in the case of a geometrically complex surface).

If you intend to plaster the walls yourself, it is better for a beginner to use those that are easier to lay, stick to the base better, have a longer lifespan, and gain strength more quickly.

Gypsum finishing is recommended by qualified plasterers. It forms easily and hardens rapidly.

What application methods exist

Plastering can be done in a few different ways, depending on the size of the surface to be covered and the materials used.

• manual (with a trowel, roller, float, bucket or just by hand);
• mechanized (using a hopper, plastering machines).

The amount of plaster that can be applied in a single pass often determines the application technique to use. Certain types of mixtures are applied in layers up to 6 cm thick when working manually. The layer that can be created by mechanical application is only 20 mm thick.

There are several application techniques among the manual plastering wall methods:

• technical (leveling) finishing with or without beacons;
• decorative (application with various tools, surface formation with different techniques) finishing.

Manual application

Using a hand tool to apply the plaster solution to the base and level, smooth, or form a textured surface in a single pass or by sequentially creating multiple layers of coating are all part of plastering walls by hand. When manually plastering a wall, a small coating area and a maximum leveling layer thickness of 10 to 12 cm are typically used to achieve a final textured finish. Every layer in a multi-layer finish is dried.

Mechanized application

When there is an ideal mix of plastering speed, low material cost (some money is saved on pricey machine work), and a large volume of coating, it makes sense to use this method of plastering.

Using a plastering machine to plaster walls is more cost-effective because:

• efforts;
• time spent;
• consumption of plastering materials;
• financial costs for the purchase of plastering mixtures, which are cheaper for machine work.

Additional benefits:

• small volumes of waste;
• uniformity of application and gain in quality, due to machine control of the SS-water ratio;
• supplying the mixture to the surface under pressure increases adhesion to the base;
• due to the uniformity of mixing and layer application, the overall strength characteristics of mechanical finishing are higher than manual.

Cons: Not always, not applicable in all situations

The complexity of the mechanical tools used for plastering varies. They mix and apply the plaster mixture using small mechanization (hoppers, sprayers, or even machine devices) powered by a compressor.

The mixture is applied while the device’s working portion is moved along the surface at the same speed, with the nozzle held 20 to 30 centimeters from the wall. All components that came into contact with the solution are cleaned and dried after the job is done. Using eye protection is essential.

Sealing cracks

New construction typically experiences shrinkage for a period of one to two years. Cracks start to show up when new homes are plastered using mineral plaster mortars during this time. Long-lasting homes can also have cracks in them. Every crack requires fixing. Large cracks need to be fixed specifically. Reinforcing meshes are used to "heal" these defects.

Small cracks are those that have an opening of no more than 5 mm. Putty or cement mortar, which is more fluid than masonry mortar, can be used to cover them. Surface cracks that are medium in size and can open up to 10 mm are first expanded before being "healed" with a cement-sand mortar. Crushed stone and reinforcement are used in a cement-sand mortar to sanitize large (greater than 10 mm) formations.

With a construction syringe, the mortar is pushed deeper into the cracks. Dust and moisture are removed from the brick and concrete wall section before the solution is applied to seal the cracks. The section containing the sealed crack body is covered with mesh and screwed to the wall. Cover the mesh with plaster.

Cover the mesh with plaster.

How to prepare walls for plastering

Understanding how to prepare walls for plastering will be helpful for beginners. An inspection is the first step in priming walls for plastering.

• what material the walls are made of;
• how strong the base is;
• how firmly the plaster coating holds, if any;
• are there any peeling areas (check by tapping);
• are there any other defects that require correction;
• how even the walls themselves are (take measurements).

General preparation

The base for plastering needs to be free of dust, free of biodamage foci, free of oil and rust stains, free of efflorescence, and free of uninsulated metal parts (staples, nails, and screws). The specific gravity of the plaster coating is high.

Make notches and deepen the seams before manually plastering the wall to improve adhesion. After priming, the base is dried. If plastering is done on them, installing beacons is another aspect of preparation.

Dismantling the old plaster

Plaster the walls using the previous plaster if it is sturdy and adheres to the wall well. Any coating that is not required for further finishing is taken off entirely. When the old plaster coating sustains significant damage, this is necessary.

Use a sponge to moisten the finish before removing it. If the plaster needs to be removed and there is drywall underneath, it is lightly tapped. After the partially peeled off area has been chipped and tapped off, unclip the plaster next to it and place a spatula or chisel’s corner underneath.

For a thorough breakdown, you might require:

• grinder;
• hatchet;
• hammer;
• spatula;
• perforator;
• scraper;
• sprayer;
• safety glasses, respirator.

• wet the plaster coating, give it time (15-20 minutes) to soak;
• check the layer looseness with a spatula;
• remove the layer by possible means (spatula, chisel, hatchet, or by sawing the finish into squares with a grinder and then chipping it off with a perforator with a chisel attachment).

How to prepare a concrete wall

Inexperienced plasterers frequently run into issues when trying to apply concrete walls by hand. Not every plaster mortar sticks to this kind of foundation well. Primer was not previously used before plaster mortar was applied to concrete surfaces. As a result, there’s a chance that both the new and old coating will come off the concrete wall.

The old finish is entirely removed from the concrete walls to stop this from occurring. The joints of the wall panels, which were typically only loosely sealed, become visible when the structure is uncovered. Before plastering, hollow joints are filled with foam.

Additionally, before plastering, a hatchet, chisel, bush hammer, or hammer is used to make notches on the concrete surface that are three to five millimeters deep. Sometimes, to create notches, a light jackhammer with a bush hammer attachment is utilized. The adherence of dense concrete bases to plaster is enhanced by irregularities.

Installing electrical wiring occurs prior to plastering if it is intended to be installed in grooves. Fasteners, like hanging hooks, are installed beforehand.

Later on, this reduces wasteful labor, time, and material expenses.

Preparing a wooden wall

Wood in particular requires setup work. Making notches is not always a sensible decision. Therefore, shingles—thin slats no wider than 20 mm—are applied to wooden bases prior to plastering. The shingles are fastened to the base’s surface with nails, positioning the slats 45 degrees from the floor and roughly 4.5 centimeters apart.

Nail the shingles that are curved or narrow first. Next, attach the top row of shingles in a crosswise manner. Soak the shingle ends to keep the planks from splitting while being nailed.

Additionally, leave a gap of two to three millimeters between the slats’ ends when nailing them to one another. You can drive nails with wire weave along them to avoid having shingles.

Plank partitions can be made more sound- and heat-insulated by covering the boards with matting or burlap before attaching the shingles. Lower the woven material until it touches the floor. After nailing the lower end, pull and fasten the upper end.

These substances stick to solutions well, provide extra insulation for the boards, and lessen the boards’ wetting and warping. The plaster covering then fractures less. The fabrics’ edges overlap one another.

Preparing a brick wall

In brickwork, deepen the masonry joints by approximately one centimeter prior to plastering. Using a chisel, do this by holding the tool along the seam line at an angle of up to 45 degrees to the surface. Metal brushes are used to remove dirt from bricks. The wall is then cleaned.

If greasy or resinous stains or efflorescence develop after detergent washing, they are treated with specific agents or mechanically cleaned until the material is clean. The base is dried after it has been prepared.

Aerated concrete, aerated concrete block, foam block

How should these materials be prepared for walls? It would seem easier with them. Any protruding irregularities are flattened using a plane or a float intended for aerated concrete. Primer should be applied twice using a brush or a sprayer after the dust has been removed. Dry in between priming to facilitate the formation of crystals that fill the surface pores.

Because foam and gas block partitions and walls lack strength, even the smallest foundation subsidence can cause them to crack. A layer of 2-3 mm tile adhesive is adhered to a fiberglass mesh reinforcement to fortify the surface. Using a trowel and a spatula, the glue is stretched. Put glue in a strip that is roughly one meter wide. Smooth a mesh strip over it, moving it up and down from the strip’s center.

After the grid is in place, install the beacons. Use a spatula to spread a layer of glue over the mesh before plastering, and then use a notched spatula to comb the glue horizontally to improve adhesion. arid.

Arbolite slabs

Wood concrete slabs always stick well to the plaster finish because of their rough texture. Consequently, no further actions are needed. To reinforce the wall itself, some plasterers add a metal mesh to the wood concrete.

Whitewash

Lime whitewash cannot be plastered over since the plaster will not adhere properly. Plaster only sticks to the uppermost layer of the lime film, and whitewash is always applied in layers.

There are various methods to remove whitewash:

• removed with a spatula (wet painstaking method) – the areas are moistened, after 15 minutes the soaked lime is removed;
• removed with a grinder (the downside of this method is a lot of dust, you need to work in a respirator and glasses);
• apply a thick layer of paste to the whitewash with a brush. After drying, the paste crust that holds the multi-layer lime mortar together is removed with a spatula (the most dust-free method);
• washed off with a soap solution (on a bucket of water of the shelf of grated soap, 5 tbsp. l. soda), repeatedly wetting the whitewash with a sponge or brush;
• wash with acid solutions.

Plaster on painted walls

Generally speaking, plastering should be done after paint has been removed. However, a thick layer of paint cannot be removed if it does not affect damp rooms or stucco that has a lot of dead weight. Paint adheres well to lightweight gypsum plaster applied over it.

Techniques for removing paint:

• soaking for 20 minutes with removal with a spatula (for water-based paint);
• use of special softening solutions;
• heating and softening with a hair dryer, scraping with a spatula;
• removal with a metal brush;
• removal using mechanical means – a grinder, etc.

Painting walls in preparation for plastering entails:

• applying notches on a base painted with enamel or oil paint that pass through the paint film;
• removing peeling areas with a spatula;
• removing the glossy layer with sandpaper or a grinder;
• removing dust with a damp cloth;
• degreasing oil stains with a solvent;
• drying the prepared base.

Necessary tools and materials

Enumeration of materials required for plastering:

1. for preparing the solution – containers, mixer, mortar mixer;
2. for application – spatulas (simply called shovel), ladle, trowel, float, rollers, brushes;
3. for stretching, leveling – a heifer, a fifth, a rule;
4. for priming, forming a relief pattern, staining: rollers, brushes, brush, sponge, stencils, other improvised means;
5. for measurement, marking, installations of lighthouses – level, plumb, roulette, masking tape, cord;
6. for staining – brushes, sponge, rollers, pulverizer;
7. For protection – glasses, respirator, gloves, work clothes

Of the supplies that are required:

• components of the plaster composition, SS or finished compounds;
• water;
• primer;
• shingles;
• Lighthouses;
• reinforcing mesh;
• mounting details – dowels, self -tapping screws, nails;

You can make any room look better and save money by plastering the walls yourself. It’s also a simple process that leaves you with the satisfaction of a job well done. By following a few easy steps, you can achieve a smooth, professional finish with the right tools, materials, and a little patience.

What is plaster on lighthouses

The following options are available with regard to home plastering technology:

• under the falcon (alignment without rule, by eye);
• under the rule (does not allow to easily achieve high evenness of the walls);
• by lighthouses (high -quality finish).

Plastering the wall of the wall won’t work out qualitatively on the eye (without beacons). Consequently, only newly constructed buildings with higher-quality walls or utility rooms—where surface quality is unimportant—use the falcon-like wall plastering technology.

A lighthouse is a strip that the plasterer moves to level the mortar that has been applied to the wall. Its surface acts as a guide for the rule. Materials used to build lighthouses include plastic, wood, metal, and plaster mortar. Beacons are fixed to the base using self-tapping screws or mortar, and have a shelf height of 6 to 10 mm.

After priming, beacon strips are installed plumb or level, strictly vertically. The outer beacons are first positioned 30 cm away from the wall corners. The planks’ surface creates a vertical plane that highlights the location of the intermediate plank installation. The space between the slats is 20–30 cm shorter than the length of the rule. It makes more sense for novice plasterers to install beacons in meters.

The mixture is applied to beacons layer by layer until the solution is above the planks. A rule that is firmly pressed up against the beacons cuts off the projecting mortar mass, moving it in a zigzag pattern.

Using a trowel or spatula, remove the excess from the rule and place it where the mixture is lacking. The leveled mortar’s surface thus becomes a vertical plane. The beacons are taken out once the mixture has solidified, and plaster mortar is then poured into the empty grooves.

Reinforcement of plaster

Because mineral plaster compositions lack elasticity, they can crack at the slightest movement of the base and form cracks during the hardening process—for instance, if the plaster mortars are greasy. This is similar to natural stone materials. The plaster is reinforced to lessen the occurrence of cracks and the opening of existing ones.

Large cracks are repaired in the same way. The strength of the finish is increased by the use of reinforcement. Net installations are required in trouble spots, such as locations where bases composed of various materials are connected, like walls composed of concrete and wood. Different materials behave differently in response to changes in humidity or temperature. As a result, there will be joint area cracks.

To provide support, meshes composed of:

• metal;
• plastic;
• fiberglass;

The primary reinforcement task and the installation location determine the material and cell size of the reinforcing mesh. Plastic or fiberglass meshes are used for interior finishing and in situations where the plaster layer is thin, if strong meshes are installed to support facade finishing or to form a plaster casing for insulation boards.

A hidden structural component found in the plaster’s body nearer the surface is called a mesh. A minimum of two meshes are installed in cases where the plaster coating is thick. A space is left between the mesh and the base when attaching the mesh to a wall or ceiling, and this space is filled with plaster mass or adhesive. By doing this, air bubbles around the net are prevented from lingering. The mesh needs to be set back.

The panels of the mesh are pulled and nailed or screwed into place to secure it to the walls. An overlap connects adjacent panels. Pulling is necessary only to keep the wall from sagging and looking uneven. Avoid becoming too tight.

The mesh is covered with asphalt or coal varnish, oil paint, or cement milk and dried if the mesh material is susceptible to corrosion during a chemical reaction, such as with lime plaster mortar.

Preparing the solution

Here, three options are possible:

• preparing the mixture by mixing the components yourself;
• diluting the SS composition with water or thinner;
• mixing the finished plaster dough before use (with or without adding a small amount of liquid).

If you are making a mixture on your own using components that you have bought separately, you must mix the constituent materials in the correct order.

The following steps are taken to prepare the cement-sand mortar:

• Fanding dry substances are placed in the container (sand, cement powder, perlite, stone baby);
• mix;
• separately prepare the liquid (milk of lime, water with a plasticizer, etc.).d.);
• stirring, gradually pour the liquid into the dry mixture until the desired consistency of the solution is achieved;
• the composition is allowed to "rest" and brew for about 5 minutes, after which it is mixed again.

It is acceptable to add additional ingredients to a mixture that has been prepared in a mortar and pestle mixer after adding some water. The dough’s consistency is adjusted by gradually adding the remaining water.

The manufacturer’s instructions, which are included in the comprehensive instructions on the packaging, are followed when mixing purchased SS. Additionally, before being used, pre-made mixtures in buckets are swirled to bring the composition back into uniformity. It’s time to add color if the plaster mortar has been painted.

There are nuances to some plaster compositions. Perlite sand, for instance, is very dusty. It is wetted prior to kneading. You’ll need to know the guidelines for creating the basis as well as the correct method for applying the plaster to the walls, including how much to use, when to apply it, and how long it should dry.

How to apply plaster on the walls with your own hands

The mixture can be spread using smearing and throwing techniques. Surfaces rendered in the first method have a denser texture and a stronger base finish. Using a steel canvas and a bucket or spatula (trowel), you can toss the composition. The instrument sends the throw—which is the solution drawn from the container—to the base, where it settles and leaves a thick blot, or "slap." Using a cell, a falcon, and a spatula, the dough is spread.

Using a stroke of the predetermined thickness, a solution is applied to a spatula or the reneal of an auxiliary spatula and then transferred to the wall. When transferring the material to the base, the plasterer lowers the angle of the tool he uses with the dough by placing it against the wall at an acute angle and moving it along the wall. The stroke is referred to as "from wet to dry" if it starts on a previously made stroke.

The technique is referred to as "from dry to wet" if the stroke starts on a dry spot and ends on another stroke. It’s crucial to follow the procedures when using decorative plaster. There is another section of the website that explains how to apply the final decorative finish. We then provide a thorough explanation of the process for rough finishing concrete.

There are comparable technologies available for improving and producing high-quality plastering of concrete walls. Plastering walls entails two similar steps. The finish is the only thing that differs.

The first stage is splashing

A thinner consistency mortar mixture is used to prevent splashing during plastering. The splash coating layer is 5 mm thick on concrete, brick, and aerated concrete, and 9 mm thick on wood (with a mesh).

Detailed instructions on how to execute a splash:

1. we take the solution from the container onto a trowel or into a ladle and throw it onto the wall between the beacons;
2. we make the throws, filling the area with “slaps” about 100 – 120 cm high (from bottom to top);
3. having covered the area between the beacons with the spatter, we level the “slaps” a little with a spatula so that there is no empty space left on the area;
4. we mark the surface of the layer with the sharp edge of the spatula to increase adhesion;
5. we do the same, performing the spatter to the top of the wall;
6. we spray the following sections of the wall, leave to dry.

The second stage is the primer

The primer is the primary (base) layer that is sprayed over the spray. There may be multiple of them to form a thick multi-layer coating. To make the primer, make a thick paste. Use a rule and spatulas for application.

1. On a wide spatula, with a narrow one, apply the dough from the container.
2. We transfer the solution to the wall, lightly pressing it into the grooves of the spray.
3. We remove the mixture protruding above the beacons from the bottom up with a rule, pressing it against the beacons and rocking it in a horizontal direction. We throw the solution removed according to the rule into a container or transfer it with a spatula to where it is missing.
4. After running the rule from bottom to top a couple of times, we run the rule from top to bottom. After such wiring, the solution will not slide down the wall.
5. We plaster the remaining part of the wall in this way.
6. We wait for the solution to set, remove the beacons, cover the formed channels with the solution.

The third stage is the finishing layer of covering

The base composition’s proportions are followed in creating the coating composition. A solution with a typical fat content has a thinner consistency than soil, and sand is added in small amounts (up to 1.5 mm). This mixture is more flexible and simpler to install. It creates a smooth surface when rubbed. 1.5 to 2 mm is the recommended thickness.

1. If plastering was carried out without removing the poppies, then the covering is applied to the soil that has not yet dried. Dried soil can be moistened with a roller.
2. Apply a cover coat, leveling it with a rule. In this case, the solution fills the resulting voids and small depressions. Remove excess mixture.

Grouting the plaster

This is the last phase. Grouting removes even the smallest mistakes.

After alignment, the cover’s barely dried surface is compacted, and grout is applied using a float. In order to prevent tearing off the drying layer, the tool is not pressed too hard. Apply grout "in a circle" (smoothing) using circular motions. The float is held and moved parallel to the corner only in the corners. Elevated areas receive greater pressure, pressing downward, while depressions receive less pressure.

Scrape off any excess mixture that sticks out and gathers on the float or trowel’s corner. Periodically, water from a spray bottle or a soft brush is used to moisten the drying layer of the cover. It is possible to grout in a circle with a very small amount of solution.

Smoothing is done right away after grouting, or "in acceleration." A sharp grater with rounded corners is used to make rectilinear vertical movements, such as up and down. Without lifting it off the surface, the float is pressed with the same amount of force. Square by square (areas of about 1 m2), proceed.

The process of smoothing, which is optional, is similar to "running" grouting except that a rubber, metal, or felt-wrapped float is used. Go over the surface twice. The float was moved once, from top to bottom (in a single direction), and once more, horizontally.

Finishing

How and why should I sand plaster? If painting or wallpapering is to be the apartment’s final finishing touch, this procedure is carried out to remove the smallest protrusions left after plastering or puttying. Because the paint layer is thin, even the smallest imperfections are visible. They are removed with sanding.

Sandpaper, sanding mesh, or sanding blocks can be used for manual sanding. Sandpaper with a grain size of 60 is sufficient to treat the surface beneath wallpaper. Paint requires multiple sandings with 120 grit sandpaper. A polished surface is the end product. Plastering the walls by hand is considered finished once the walls have been sanded and the dust removed. A little background on cutting corners.

Plastering corners

To the uneducated, the terms "husks" and "whiskers" have no meaning. Nevertheless, these are plasterers’ technical terms for internal and external corners, respectively. Plastering them is not the same process as plastering walls.

The primary methods employed by plasterers are:

• using a profile corner;
• with beacons;
• with a counter-shultz (a perforated corner with an aluminum base));
• with a serpyanka (a tape mesh made of fiberglass or synthetics with an adhesive layer);
• without a counter-shultz.

Techniques for creating a corner with a counter-shultz step-by-step:

1. Cut perforated corners of the required length.
2. A contact solution is applied to the angle with a thick layer (along the inner angle, the mixture is stretched along the entire length).
3. The corner is placed against the corner, pressed most tightly in the most “protruding” place, then using a rule, press the counter-shultz so that it stands strictly vertically (check with a level or plumb line).
4. Any excess mixture released during installation is removed with a spatula. After this, the mixture is given time to harden.
5. After installation, the corner is aligned with the wall using dough. The shelves of the corner are then inside the plaster mortar. The corner of the counter-shultz protects the protruding corner from damage.

Matching the corner’s position to the wall

Using a profile corner to create an outer corner:

1. Cut the profile corners to the required length;
2. Beacons are installed on the adjacent walls (the corner is plastered before work is carried out on the wall);
3. A contact mortar is applied to the corner in a thick layer (the mixture is stretched along the entire length along the inner corner).
4. Next (already thicker) apply the soil on both sides from the corner to the nearest beacons.
5. The corner is placed against the corner, the mesh is pressed against the mixture, the mortar is leveled with the rule along the beacons on one wall, then on the second wall.
6. The excess mixture removed with the rule is added with a spatula to where it is lacking.
7. The profile corner and mesh are inside the plaster layer.

Although plastering walls by yourself can initially seem difficult, it is a task that is achievable with the correct tools and techniques. You can create smooth, long-lasting walls by properly prepping the surface and applying the plaster in even coats.

A good finish is ensured by taking the time to understand every step of the procedure. Gaining expertise in this area can help you save money and feel proud of yourself for a job well done, regardless of whether you’re building a new wall or remodeling an old one.

Recall that practice makes perfect. Minor errors shouldn’t deter you from learning; they are a necessary part of the process. You’ll soon be able to plaster like a pro if you have patience and pay attention to detail.

Video on the topic

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