Installing beacons for plastering walls – step-by-step technology

Without the proper advice, plastering walls can be difficult to accomplish a flawlessly smooth surface. Installing beacons is one of the most important steps in this process because they act as guides to make sure the plaster is applied evenly throughout the wall. This small but important step can have a huge impact on how your project turns out in the end.

Beacons serve as benchmarks for plaster thickness, which makes it easier to create a level surface. Without them, even seasoned pros might find it difficult to prevent uneven layers, which could result in a rough or uneven finish. Thankfully, installing beacons only requires a few simple tools and a little perseverance.

We’ll take you step-by-step through the technology of installing beacons for plastering walls in this guide. This guide will give you step-by-step instructions to ensure that the plastering job is done correctly, regardless of whether you’re a do-it-yourself enthusiast or someone looking to improve your skills. You’ll be well on your way to creating a wall surface that looks polished and seamless if you follow these instructions.

How to set beacons for plastering

When first beginning to level walls, a novice is unsure of how to install beacons, where to put steps, and how to fasten guide profiles to the wall surface. Beacons under plaster installation needs to be done carefully because only properly positioned guides will enable the walls to be as even as necessary. Defects result from a badly installed beacon that is uneven or not securely fastened.

Now let’s discuss which beacon pitch to select. The length of the rule you will use to level the plaster mixture should be taken into consideration when determining the spacing between the planks. It is preferable to use a short tool (up to 1.5 m) for novices. This is a more straightforward and manageable rule.

The maximum step of the guides is set to be less than the length of the rule bar by 20 cm (up to 1.3 m) because the rule is supported and moved along the beacons during alignment. Though it can be any value, 0.8 m is typically the minimum step. Extreme guides are spaced 10–30 cm apart from interior corners. Retrench by 0.1-0.15 meters when positioning beacons near door or window openings.

Setting beacons for wall alignment involves these main steps:

• mark the surface of the structure to be leveled;
• set reference points for extreme beacons;
• at a short distance from the surface to be leveled, using levels, plumb lines or laser level, create an auxiliary strictly vertical plane using cords (threads, light beams);
• measure the deviations of the wall surface from the auxiliary plane, find the “zero point” — the place where the surface protrudes most;
• correct the auxiliary plane, taking its elevation above the zero point to the thickness h of the plaster layer;
• install two extreme beacon profiles in turn according to the position of the adjusted auxiliary plane;
• install intermediate profiles, checking their position along the extreme guides;
• prime the mortar part of the beacons (spots or mortar paths).

How to set up beacons for plastering walls without a laser level

The most important thing in this situation is to properly configure the beacon profiles for plastering.

Installing beacons for plastering walls involves marking the area, setting up the profiles, and securing them to the surface, just like any other installation technology.

Prior to the invention of the laser level, plasterers would drive nails into the wall using a plumb line and a ruler, the heads of which would serve as a reference when arranged in a single vertical plane. To verify verticality, a building level is utilized in addition to a plumb line.

Two primary marking techniques are frequently utilized to install beacons for plastering walls:

• regular marking;
• "spider" method.

Regular marking

Let’s look at how beacons are typically set. A nylon thread and a level are required. Our goal is to construct a strictly vertical auxiliary plane that is situated at a minimum distance (h) from the solution’s thickness, which is the "zero" point (see the gallery below). H varies depending on the plaster solution (usually stated as the minimum thickness on the dry mix packaging).

The auxiliary plane should rise above the zero point by (h – b) mm, since the heads of the screws give the beacon profiles their own height, b (mm).

1. We retreat 10 cm from the corner of the room, 15-20 cm from the ceiling (point A). Similarly, on the other side of the wall, we mark point (B). At both points, we install a screw protruding above the wall by 3-5 cm.
2. We tie a plumb line to the first screw, under the thread we mark two new points (A1 and A2): the first at a distance of 0.15-0.2 m from the floor, the second one – in the middle between A and A1. We screw in the screws. Similarly, we mark points B1 and B2 and install two more screws.
3. At this stage, all the screw caps need to be aligned in one plane. To do this, we pass the plumb line tied to the top screw over the cap, and screw in or unscrew the screws below so that their caps touch the line passing over them. We do the same with the screws on the other side.
4. We stretch a horizontal fishing line (cord) between the opposing screws, passing it over the caps. We connect the diagonals (A-B1 and A1-B) with a fishing line. If the hardware is installed correctly, the fishing lines of the diagonals will touch in the middle.
5. We mark points C and D (10 cm to the center from A and B under the horizontal fishing line). We install another screw with caps adjacent to the fishing line (for convenience, we draw lines between the screws with a marker). Having measured the distance CD, we divide it into segments from 100 to 150 cm long (the distance between beacons). We install hardware, focusing on the fishing line.
6. For all new screws, repeating the above operations, install a pair of lower ones on the beacon lines.
7. The resulting vertical plane allows you to identify the most protruding point of the wall (zero), which is determined by measuring the distance from the wall to the plane formed by the lines.
8. If the distance between the zero point and the vertical plane is greater than h or h-b, we adjust the position of the plane by screwing or unscrewing the hardware by the same distance.

Finding the zero point

Screwing and unscrewing the screws simultaneously is not hard. Because the screws have the same thread pitch, it is sufficient to screw or unscrew them by the same amount of turns.

Marking using the spider method

An alternative method for installing beacon strips for plastering walls is the "spider" method. The use of four stretched threads—two horizontal and two vertical—led to the creation of the name. However, great accuracy can be attained if every step is taken carefully. The technique will assist in determining the ideal coating thickness for leveling, resulting in minimal plaster consumption on the beacons.

1. Having retreated from the corners of the wall (and from the ceiling) 15 and (5) cm, mark the points, drill a hole in them, then, having inserted a dowel, screw in 2 screws with a screwdriver so that the heads rise above the wall by 5 cm.
2. Now you need to use a plumb line to mark a place for installing two more screws above the wall 5 cm from the floor (strictly vertically, under the upper ones). Drill holes in which self-tapping screws are installed, also protruding from the wall by 5 cm.
3. At a distance of 2 cm from the wall surface, a nylon thread is tied to the upper screws. Using a plumb line, mark on the lower screws the places where you need to tie the nylon thread going from above so that it is strictly vertical. In these places, the ends of the threads are tied with tension.
4. A pair of horizontal threads are tied to two threads stretched vertically so that they can be moved. By moving the horizontal threads along the wall, the curvature of the surface is determined, the maximum protruding (zero point), and also whether the wall is falling and in which direction.
5. If the distance from the zero point to the horizontal thread is greater than the minimum possible for the selected plaster layer thickness (h for mortar beacons, or h-b – in the case of using standard profiles, where b is the height of the beacon profile shelf), the screws are screwed into the wall deeper by the same distance, ensuring that the horizontal thread is above the zero point by the value of h (or h-b). If the zero point protrudes beyond the vertical plane formed by the threads, the protruding section is cut off, or all the screws are unscrewed by the same distance.
6. Along the created vertical zero plane, 3-5 self-tapping screws are placed under each thread, the heads of which touch the threads.

Screw installation beneath a thread

Setting intermediate beacon profiles along two precisely oriented lines is no longer difficult. Beacons can be placed in the space beneath threads that are stretched horizontally. This is easy enough for a beginner to handle.

Setting up beacons is an essential step in plastering walls in order to guarantee an even and smooth surface. Plastering will be simpler and more accurate if you follow this article’s simple, step-by-step instructions for correctly positioning and securing beacons. Even a novice in wall plastering can attain expert results by following these guidelines.

How to set beacons for plastering walls with a laser level

One of the more modern marking tools is the laser level. It is much quicker and simpler to use when setting beacons for plastering walls. To create a straight angle between adjacent walls, you can also use a laser level. A rule that is 5–10 cm shorter than the wall’s height is required. If the wall is short, the device is positioned close to the corner; if the surface to be plastered is long, it is positioned in the center.

In order to create a plane that is perpendicular to the nearby, already plastered wall and parallel to the processed wall, we install the laser level as close to the wall as possible (3–4 cm). To ensure that the device is placed in the same location after being knocked down, we mark the locations where the light lines pass with a pencil. We measure the wall surface’s deviation from the plane the beam forms using a metal square, noting the results on the wall or in a notebook.

1. Having identified the zero point, we mark it with a cross, measure or calculate the distance from the light plane to the future surface. Let"s say there are 25 mm from the zero point to the beam, the plaster layer is 10 mm, the height of the beacon profile is 6 mm. We calculate the minimum distance between the plane of the beam and the top of the edges of the beacons: 25 – 10 = 15 mm (see. fig.).
2. To mark the rule in three places, we glue masking tape to its plane, on which we apply a mark 15 mm from the working edge (or draw a line directly on the rule 15 mm from the edge). The beam should pass along this mark when installing the rule on the edge of the exposed beacon.
3. We apply beacon installation lines to the walls. We throw a mortar along the line farthest from the level. Install the profile bar by slightly pressing it into the solution.
4. We set the rule with the edge on the edge of the profile and press the profile against the wall with the tool so that the laser beam coincides with the marks on the tape.
5. Set aside the rule, remove excess solution, clean the top of the beacon with a spatula so that the working surface is clean and level.
6. We install the following profiles in a similar way, sequentially approaching the level.

Beacon installation on a solution

Compared to other marking methods, beacon marking can be completed with a laser level considerably more quickly.

Types of plaster beacons

When leveling walls, beacons composed of various materials are used as guides.

• mortar (tracks made of mortar, the upper edge of which serves as a guide);
• metal profiles (made of aluminum or galvanized steel);
• plastic profiles (disadvantage – they bend easily);
• wooden slats (rarely used, they are fixed in place with nails);
• strings.

Every kind of beacon has benefits and drawbacks. Metal beacons should not be left in the plaster; instead, they should be taken out once the composition has solidified. Rusted patches show up on left profiles as a result of corrosion over time. Moisture can cause wooden slats to swell and warp. Plastic profiles are more challenging to install precisely and fix because they deform too easily.

Not only are T-shaped beacon profiles created, but L-shaped ones as well. They are put in place on corners that stick out to be plastered. L-shaped profiles remain in the thickness of the finish after alignment.

Preparing the wall surface

The surface that has to be leveled is prepared before plaster beacons are placed. Eliminate mold, old, useless coating, stains, and extra metal components. Chips and cracks are fixed. Notches are used to cover smooth concrete surfaces, and 10 mm of embroidery is used to cover masonry seams.

Information about plastering various types of walls:

1. Plastering brick walls.
2. Concrete walls.
3. Wood plasters.

Dust off the surface, let it dry, prime the base, and then reinforce it if needed after it has dried.

Installation of beacons for plastering walls in different ways

The beacon profiles must be firmly fixed to the wall during installation. Use ready-made or homemade fasteners, such as clips or ear ears, to install the beacon on the wall in a dependable, timely, and accurate manner. Plastering walls requires the installation of beacons on mortar.

The areas after installing the beacons are primed in order to stop the mortar on which the profiles were placed from hastening the crystallization of the plaster composition applied during plastering.

Installation on plaster mortar or tile adhesive

We will examine the positioning, installation, and plaster mixture fixing of beacons. Installing the profile directly on the self-tapping caps may cause it to rotate and stray from its intended position during the fixing process. Consequently, using a spatula, mounds of plaster composition that protrude above the caps are placed around the hardware.

The mounds – marks are shaped into round or rectangular "pedestals," with the top being cut at the height of the caps along the auxiliary vertical plane. It is much simpler to place beacons beneath the plaster on such hardened pedestals and secure them with tile adhesive or a plaster mixture.

Plaster beacons are installed on marks, and the profiles are fixed in place between them. Here, pieces of cut drywall may come in handy. By adhering the pieces together with an adhesive mass or solution, you can use them to mark the necessary height. Placing a mortar mixture under the beacon profiles in the appropriate locations will suffice if they are near the base’s surface.

Installation of beacons without mortar

We need to quickly and firmly fasten the profiles to the self-tapping screws in order to ensure the reliable installation of beacons that are protected against displacement during the plastering process. For this reason, a variety of fastener types have been developed.

Beacons can be set up on hardware by using:

• clips;
• creamers;
• eared;
• cleverness;
• homemade brackets made from straightened and cut beacon profiles.

The quick installation process and elimination of the need to wait for the plaster mixture to solidify are the benefits of this type of fastening. Stated differently, all that is required is the placement of the beacon profile and its attachment with self-tapping screws. Almost immediately following installation, plastering can begin. The wall-mounted beacon profiles won’t move.

When compared to fastening on a plaster mixture, this type of fastening has the drawback of requiring the installation of extra hardware and the purchase of clamps.

Beacons from mortar

You can create your own beacons to level the walls by mixing plaster, such as cement or gypsum. These paths don’t need to be removed because they are made of the same plaster composition that will be used for later plastering.

Andrey Shaiter provides the most straightforward and quick method.

All you need is a rule, a spatula, and a trowel to create guides out of mortar. First, an auxiliary plane is set, the beacon axes are marked on the wall, a laser device is used to locate a zero point, and marks are made on the rule. Prior to beginning work, get a viscous elastic solution ready.

Making a mortar beacon step-by-step with the Scheiter method:

• the rule is installed on its edge (fixed in this position on the scaffolding);
• the mortar is applied to the upper edge of the rule with a trowel;
• the correct strip with mortar is applied to the wall, pressing until the line on the rule and the laser beam are aligned;
• the angle of the rule strip to the wall is adjusted using the trowel rectangle (a perpendicular is achieved);
• the excess mortar is removed from both sides of the tool with a spatula;
• the edge of the rule is cut off from the created mortar path using a cotton thread, the rule is removed;
• the mortar is allowed to dry for a day, after which the top of the beacon is lightly run over with a block of sandpaper.

Modifying the scaffolding regulation

Using mortar

Changing the junction’s angle

Lining up the laser beam and the rule’s line

Removing the regulation from the route

Mortar paths 2 cm wide are produced by this method. They are made of gypsum and can be used for plastering after they dry out in a day. In order to prevent the bar from moving when cutting with a thread, it is advised to rest the lower end (heel) of the tool rail on a wooden wedge during construction.

A slightly more complex method exists for creating mortar guides and using a level to check their verticality.

1. A rule bar is placed on pre-installed screws to the wall (perpendicularly, on the edge).
2. The gap between the bar and the wall is filled with mortar (without gaps).
3. Excess plaster composition is removed longitudinally from both sides with a spatula.
4. Gently tapping, shift the rule along the axis of the beacon, and then remove it from the resulting track.

Materials and tools

Use standard plastering tools to prime and plaster with leveling compounds.

Beacons installation requires the following:

• plumb line (laser level or building level);
• nylon cord;
• a set of dowels and screws (the length of the latter depends on the thickness of the leveling layer);
• a spatula and trowel;
• a marker or pencil for marking;
• a trapezoidal rule (10 cm shorter than the height of the wall to be leveled);
• a container for the solution;
• a screwdriver (for screws);
• metal scissors (needed to cut the profile into pieces for making fasteners);
• a hammer drill;
• a chisel and pliers for removing metal guides;
• masking tape.

Buying beacon profiles and enough screws (varying in length) may be necessary for installing beacons on plastered walls. You will need to stock up on dry plaster mix or composition preparation materials if you plan to create mortar paths or fasten guides to the solution.

Step	Description
1. Mark the wall	Use a level to draw vertical lines where the beacons will be placed.
2. Prepare the mix	Mix plaster or adhesive that will hold the beacons in place.
3. Apply the mix	Put small amounts of the mix along the marked lines on the wall.
4. Install beacons	Press the beacons into the mix, making sure they are level and straight.
5. Check alignment	Use a level to ensure the beacons are properly aligned.
6. Let it set	Allow the mix to dry, securing the beacons firmly to the wall.

Plastering walls may seem like a difficult task, but anyone who enjoys do-it-yourself projects can handle setting up beacons. You can make sure that your walls are smooth and level, which is important for the final appearance of your space, by following the step-by-step instructions.

The secret is to take your time and ensure that every beacon is properly aligned during the setup process. Plastering will be much simpler and more effective with this attention to detail, which will also prevent you from running into problems later.

You’re putting yourself in a successful position to achieve a polished finish by using beacons. This technique helps guarantee even and accurate plastering whether you’re working on a small room or a larger project. You’ll be able to handle plastering jobs with confidence and excellent results if you have a little patience and practice.

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