The grouting process is where the real magic happens after plastering a wall. This is the process of transforming uneven, rough surfaces into perfectly smooth walls that are ready for finishing or painting.
Plaster grouting is a complex process that can be handled in a variety of ways, depending on the requirements and expertise of the user. Knowing these tricks can make all the difference, whether your goal is a flawless finish or you just want to finish the task quickly.
We’ll walk you through the fundamental techniques for grouting plaster in this guide, providing you with the know-how you need to consistently produce a polished finish.
- What is grouting and when to do it
- Tools
- What sandpaper is needed
- Grater meshes
- Video on the topic
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- Grouting plaster by machine. Plastering work
What is grouting and when to do it
You can smooth, level, and remove even the tiniest imperfections from the surfaces of walls and ceilings by grouting (grinding/sanding). This must be done before painting, applying wallpaper, or using thin Venetian or other decorative plaster.
On the room’s interior walls or on the facade, grinding starts right away after leveling the plastering work and comes before additional priming and decorative finishing.
Once the wall has been puttied or plastered, it must dry for a full day before dry grouting can begin. As soon as the plaster hardens, wet grouting can be completed. Below, we will look more closely at this.
Plaster grouting is a crucial step in creating a smooth, perfect wall finish. This post will discuss every plaster grouting technique, from manual methods to contemporary equipment that speeds up and simplifies the process. With the correct methods and supplies, you can achieve a flawless, polished look whether you’re a seasoned pro or a do-it-yourself enthusiast.
Tools
In order to manually grout the walls, we’ll need:
- a block for grinding with replaceable meshes or sandpaper;
- a sponge for wetting the walls;
- a wide spatula (for wet grouting);
- portable lamp;
- dust protection products;
- ladder.
What sandpaper is needed
Sandpaper must be fastened to a grater or bar in order to perform dry grinding.
- For rectangular bars with clamps, grinding sheets already cut to the size.
- For long polyurethane teaks, it is convenient to use sand -based sandpaper in rolls of 5 or 50 meters, a standard width of 115 mm. The tape is cut off by the size of the grater and attached to stationery buttons or small screws.
Grains. The number representing the degree of graininess is indicated by the sandpaper. Grit 80–100 is a good range for wallpaper grout putty. 180 is the putty for painting. These names refer to the imported manufacturer’s abrasive. The granularity decreases as the number increases.
The letters "n" followed by numbers ranging from 4 to 80 designate domestic skins. Conversely, coarse-grained materials are denoted by higher numbers in this instance. "Zero" is the finest sandpaper.
There are variations in the base material. In addition to being more resilient to wear and moisture than paper sandpaper, sandpaper on a fabric base is stronger. I select a fabric base if the size is appropriate.
Of course, imports are the majority in construction stores. There are plenty of sandpaper manufacturers to choose from.
Grater meshes
Fabric with holes is used as a grinding mesh. Although it costs more, it doesn’t become blocked by sanding dust when working. This occurs because surplus putty is sliced by the pointed corners of the cells and then falls through them, unclogging the actual working portion.
Similar to sandpaper, meshes are also divided by numbers.
The mesh should be attached to a bar that is smaller than it. The bent edges are placed into the bar’s clamps. As the meshes wear down, replace them.
Crucial! As grinding can be an extremely dusty task, we advise wearing basic protective gear, such as respirators and glasses. Wear a scarf or a cap to cover your head.
Cover doorways with a wet cloth or plastic film to keep dust from entering adjacent rooms before you begin work.
| Method | Description |
| Sponge Float | Used on slightly damp plaster, creating a smooth surface by removing minor imperfections. |
| Steel Trowel | Provides a polished finish, ideal for smooth, even surfaces. |
| Plastic Float | Offers a fine finish, especially effective on delicate plaster types. |
| Wooden Float | Creates a textured surface, often used for decorative finishes. |
| Sanding | Removes any remaining roughness, leaving a perfectly smooth surface. |
Gaining proficiency in the different plaster grouting techniques can significantly impact the durability and final appearance of your walls. Every method, whether you use a trowel, float, or sponge, has advantages and disadvantages of its own.
To get the best results, you must know when and how to apply each method. Practice and patience are essential; investing the time to hone your abilities will pay off in the form of smoother, more polished walls.
Thus, gather your supplies, decide on an appropriate method, and begin working to create a flawlessly polished surface that will endure.
