Plaster for brick walls step-by-step technology

Brick walls that are uneven and rough can be smoothed out to create an eye-catching finish. This procedure helps with insulation and soundproofing in addition to improving the look of your walls. It’s crucial to take a methodical approach in order to obtain a professional appearance.

Plaster adhesion is improved by beginning with appropriate surface preparation, which includes cleaning and priming the surface. Paying close attention to detail is necessary at every step of the application process, from combining the plaster to layering it on. You can produce a result that is both aesthetically pleasing and long-lasting by following these steps.

What plaster is better to plaster brick walls

The following are the most frequently selected plaster compositions from the wide range available for leveling brick walls:

• affordable;
• suitable operating conditions;
• durability;
• corresponding to the functional purpose of the coating.

Combinations are categorized by functionality into:

• ordinary (leveling, filling the volume);
• decorative (decorating the surface);
• special (sanitizing, X-ray protective, moisture-proofing, soundproofing, etc.)..

By application domain:

• mixtures for internal coatings;
• compositions for external walls (facade);
• universal mixtures.

The base, or binder, determines many other properties of the solution, such as durability, vapor permeability, ease of installation, and service life. Mineral-based mixtures are more economical and more accessible in terms of expenses. Additionally, it makes more sense to use materials of this class for brick walls because plastering bricks requires a lot of work.

The following solutions work well for bases made of concrete and brick: gypsum, cement, lime, and cement-lime (apart from gypsum-lime).

Cement-sand mixture CPS

When the name speaks for itself, this is the situation. Cement is a binder that solidifies into an artificial stone that is long-lasting. The type and brand of cement used will determine the coating’s ultimate strength; among mineral-based finishes, CPS has the highest strength.

• universal (applicable for interiors, for the street, for rough, decorative finishes);
• moisture- and frost-resistant;
• durable;
• repairable;
• ecologically friendly;
• easily accessible (you can prepare the composition yourself);
• budget;
• fire-resistant;
• durable.

The following are some of its drawbacks:

• long-term strength gain (3-4 weeks);
• heavy weight;
• unstable to vibrations, building subsidence;
• incompatible with wooden or smooth walls.

Cement (typically Portland cement) and sand are typically combined in CPS at a volume ratio of 1:3 to 1:4. The water used for mixing is cold and pure. The introduction of functional additives enhances the qualities.

Lime

Natural substance, recognized since the Roman era.

• environmentally friendly;
• easy to lay;
• vapor permeable;
• bactericidal;
• fireproof;
• "sticky, clinging" to mineral bases, as well as to cardboard, wood, clay;
• durable;
• repairable;
• universal.

• low water resistance;
• cracks under vibration loads;
• gains strength slowly;
• requires protective equipment when working;
• inferior in strength to other mineral plasters.

The binder and clay, gypsum, and cement combine well. Ideal for basements, bathrooms, and toilets. Unsuitable for facade applications.

Gypsum plaster

A particular favorite among plasterers for indoor work. But because gypsum is unstable when exposed to moisture, plastering a house’s facade is not permitted. Gypsum material is only used on glazed loggias and balconies on the street. Nevertheless, additive-rich compositions have been created that permit gypsum to be used in restrooms as well as outside. These materials aren’t utilized for rough finishing though because they are significantly more expensive.

• fast strength gain;
• high plasticity;
• environmental friendliness;
• vapor permeability;
• reliable adhesion;
• low thermal conductivity;
• fire resistance;
• light weight;
• does not crack during hardening;
• easy to sand;
• easy to restore;
• durability.

• "hydrophobia";
• too short service life;
• not resistant to biological damage;
• low frost resistance.

Perlite

The substance is a particular kind. Sand used as a perlite filler has the ability to insulate against heat and noise. Most of the time, cement is the binder.

• light weight of the coating;
• low thermal conductivity;
• environmental friendliness;
• fire safety;
• resistance to microorganisms and mold;
• vapor permeability,
• durability.

• high dust formation;
• some difficulties in mixing.

The plastering materials and components listed above are all readily available, have straightforward compositions, and are easily prepared by hand. The location of the surface to be treated and the qualities mentioned above should be taken into consideration when choosing the best plaster for a brick wall.

If you buy ready-made dry mixes or make your own perlite mixtures, the cost of the work will go down.

Preparing a brick wall for plastering

In order to guarantee a solid bond between the finish and the wall, the first step in the plastering process on the job site is base preparation. Furthermore, you can conceal the wall’s structure from view by applying a monolithic coating to the wall. Thus, plastering is done after the wall has been repaired.

Examining and evaluating the wall’s evenness enables you to:

• correctly outline the vertical plane of the future wall surface (often walls, partitions, ceilings need adjustment),
• calculate the consumption of finishing materials.

There are several subtle differences between the preparation of brick surfaces for new and old brick walls.

New wall

Even a freshly constructed brick wall that complies with building codes needs to be ready for plastering.

The plasterer’s primary goals are to guarantee "healthy" conditions and strong adhesion for the brickwork:

• embroider the masonry seams (deepen by a centimeter);
• scratch the surface of the bricks with a wire brush;
• treat with bioprotection agents;
• remove traces of fat and grease from the surface.

old wall

The majority of "veterans" have numerous "sores" and "wounds" on their bodies.

Masonry mortars, particularly those applied haphazardly and without a protective coating, frequently:

• partially crumbled;
• individual bricks become loose;
• there are chips and cracks on the wall;
• the walls inside the house may have nails, screws, or other metal fasteners;
• full of oil, salt, rust, fungal stains.

The room’s ancient walls are additionally finished with plaster and other materials. Old walls are more frequently crooked than new. This is just the front portion of the setup.

Consequently, the ancient masonry

• cleaned of a worthless finishing coating;
• A weak solution is removed from the seams, the pantry of the crumb (where necessary, they are extended), large gaps fill the CPS;
• shook bricks either replace or seize, planting back after cleaning the brick and nest on the CPS;
• Cracks and large chips, cleaning from dust, are closed with a solution using a reinforcing mesh;
• The spots are washed, processed with special means;
• Extraneine objects are removed, the remaining metal parts are painted with an oil -based paint.

Brickwork apparel

Both kinds of walls are then primed, dried, and dust-free. Measurements, beacon installations, and (if required) the attachment of reinforcing mesh complete the preparatory work.

Plastering brick walls can greatly improve their durability and aesthetic appeal. Preparing the wall surface, combining the plaster, putting on a base coat, and adding a topcoat are some of the crucial steps in this process. You can make sure that the plaster adheres correctly and produces a smooth and even finish by taking a methodical approach. It will be simple to attain expert results with the help of this article, which will walk you through every step of plastering brick walls.

Tool

Before plastering a brick wall, get ready:

• trowel;
• ladle;
• steel spatulas (wide, narrow);
• half-grater;
• rule;
• trowel (for decorative work);
• level, plumb line or construction laser;
• tape measure;
• pencil;
• mixer;
• containers;
• rags;
• masking tape;
• devices or tools for removing old coating;
• personal protective equipment.

How to plaster a brick wall with your own hands

We will then discuss how to use cement-sand mortar for leveling plastering on a brick wall. You can find separate information about plastering the ceiling.

A succinct, step-by-step guide comprises the subsequent phases:

1. Prepare the wall surface.
2. Make measurements, calculate consumption, determine the location of future surfaces.
3. Select and purchase materials.
4. Install beacons.
5. Reinforce.
6. Prepare the solution (mix the solution separately for each layer before applying).
7. We apply a spray, primer, and top coat in sequence.
8. We rub down the top layer.
9. We remove the beacons, fill the grooves, and rub down.
10. We dry the coating.

Up to 65% humidity and a positive temperature range of 5–35 °C are used for the work. The electrical wiring is disconnected before any work is done, and masking tape is used to seal the socket and switch recesses. Use tape to keep window and door trims safe.

How to prepare a solution for plastering a brick wall

The proper solution preparation is the second factor that determines the plaster coating’s quality. All that is needed to properly prepare a plastering solution from a dry mixture is to adhere closely to the manufacturer’s instructions.

When mixing a homemade solution, you must do the following:

• pour clean, sifted sand into a dry container;
• evenly scatter the required volume of cement over the top;
• mix the dry components;
• cold water, to which a plasticizer (liquid soap or PVA) is added, is not completely poured into the container – some of the water is left to adjust the thickness of the dough;
• mix the components, adding water if the mixture needs to be liquefied;
• let it sit for 10-15 minutes, then mix it again.

The second scenario describes the steps involved in filling the parts needed to prepare the mortar mixer’s plaster mix. After adding plasticizers and water to the revolving bulb, sand is added, and cement is added last. Water is added gradually to the dough to adjust its viscosity. The prepared mass is utilized up until the setting point.

Primer

Is priming brickwork required, and if so, why? Because brick is porous, water is drawn out of it as soon as plaster mortar is applied. Because of this, the cement dough becomes dehydrated, and what little moisture is left is not enough to support the binder’s chemical reactions that lead to crystallization. The ingredients that haven’t entered the reaction just dry out as the solution partially solidifies.

There is a half or greater reduction in the cement coating’s strength. In order to fill the pores and create a waterproof film on the wall surface, a primer is applied to the brickwork. Increasing adhesion is the primer’s second goal.

The selection of the primer for brick beneath plaster is based on:

• the type of brick (for silicate, take primers that provide increased adhesion);
• the condition of the surface (for old walls, a deep-acting strengthening agent is needed);
• the conditions of the base (for facades, damp rooms, take antiseptic, moisture-proof primers).

The best option is universal water-soluble compounds that work with any kind of brick and have an acrylic or silicone base.

Apply primer to the wall’s surface twice. For work, use a brush or a spray gun. After drying each layer for at least a day, make two passes.

Reinforcement

Reinforcement is used to boost the plastering coating’s strength.

For this, the base material and the location of the reinforced structure are taken into consideration when choosing the mesh:

• Fiberglass mesh is attached to a concrete or brick base under a cement plaster mixture inside the room.
• Metal mesh is used for facade work on brick under a cement mortar, as well as for large plastering areas.

All of the wall space in newly constructed buildings that are getting smaller is reinforced with mesh. Additionally, in buildings that have already "calmed down," there are specific trouble spots, like the intersection of structures made of different materials, projecting corners, and slopes. Old brick walls, thick layer plaster coatings, and the base are all better reinforced in their entirety.

Application of reinforcement is done on a dried and primed wall. Mortar needs to be applied all the way around the mesh on both sides. In order to fill the solution, a space is left between the wall and the grid canvas after the grid canvas is attached to the wall. After the mesh panel is stretched, it is fastened to the wall using screws or nails that are inserted into the masonry’s joints. An overlap connects the panels. Stretching the mesh doesn’t require too much force. What matters most is that there are no mesh bubbles or sagging.

Marking and installation of beacons

How can one level brick walls that were incorrectly laid out by builders, if that is possible? One way to solve the issue is to level the plaster. According to SNiP, better brick wall plastering has errors that are no greater than 2 mm per square meter when viewed at a straight angle to the wall’s plane. Furthermore, on a 4 m2 area, there should be no more than 2 deviations. Beacons, which are strips that serve as guides, are used in plastering to quickly achieve this quality or to enhance older walls. Plaster mortar, wood, plastic, and metal (profiles are sold) are the materials used to make beacons.

First, ascertain the wall’s maximum protrusion point using tension cords or a laser level. Make a cross mark. This will serve as a blueprint for building the future vertical surface plane later on. The minimum allowable plaster thickness on brick is 5 mm, which is taken into consideration when installing beacons. This indicates that the top of the plank should rise above this point by at least half a centimeter if reinforcing mesh is not used. The future plaster surface is located at the top of the beacon strips.

On the wall, a vertical line is drawn that passes through the indicated plus sign. A nylon cord with a plumb line should be attached to a self-tapping screw that has been inserted along a line at the top of the wall. The metal beacon has a minimum height of 6 mm. Adjust the cord position so that the thread recedes above the plus from the wall to the necessary distance.

Screw the second self-tapping screw at the base of the wall, paying attention to the lace (the hat should touch the cord). Install the outer beacons on the wall next, keeping this vertical as a guide (at a distance of 30 cm from the corners). The remaining beacons have been installed with a 100–150 cm step. A step of one meter is a more sensible choice for novices. Beacons are fastened to the wall using self-tapping screws or mortar. Videos explaining the installation of beacon strips are available.

Sections of the wall between the beacons are treated with the solution. A rule is used to level the solution once it starts to show above the strips. Applying and gently pressing the rule strip to the beacons causes the rule to run along the strips from bottom to top. Plaster mass is added where there isn’t much of it or poured into a container after the excess mortar that accumulates on the rule is removed with a spatula. Make one return pass after running the rule two to four times from bottom to top. The mortar won’t slide down the wall after this.

Partially applies the mortar. For novices, a length of 1.1–1.2 m is sufficient. After demolishing a location, a plot close by covers them. The beacons are taken out once the wall has been fully plastered and the solution has had time to set. A mixture is used to seal the depressions that are left behind.

First layer

The spray is designed to ensure that the coating’s primary solution sticks to the wall effectively. This layer is a mixture that is nearly liquid. After moistening the wall, a trowel or ladle is used to hurl the spray mixture onto the base. This solution is applied to the wall, filling in all the spaces. The layer does not need to be leveled.

Second layer

The primer, or base layer, is composed of a thicker dough. Use a trowel or spatula to apply, being careful to ensure that the solution reaches beneath the beacons. Use a rule to level it in line with the beacons. There is only one centimeter of layer thickness. Plaster mixture is applied in multiple layers if a thicker coating is needed.

Third layer

The third layer is not required for standard plastering (not improved). The purpose of the cover is to create a surface that can be painted over or covered with wallpaper. Although fine sand (up to 1.5 mm) is used as a filler, the mixture for the cover has a density comparable to that of the spatter. Using a spatula, the cover is applied to the damp soil (moisten the dried one). The cover has a thickness of 1.2-2 mm. Level with a rule after application, eliminating excess.

Final grouting

Final leveling is required to get rid of small mistakes. As soon as it starts to dry, it is done with a float. First, the grout is applied "in a circle," using a float that is flat against the wall and gently pressed in circular motions. Pressure should be increased over convex areas and decreased over depressions. Remove any excess from the instrument. Add a small amount of solution as needed.

Following grout completion, "vecular" grout is applied "in acceleration," which smoothes vertical movements in a straight line. The movements are horizontal during the second pass. The walls must be grouted "during hardening" if they are to be painted in order to prevent circles from the previous grout from showing through.

Differences between plastering walls outside and inside

The answer to the question, "What is the best way to plaster brick walls?" is already partially provided. It is now necessary to take into account and combine the subtleties related to the work’s location.

What is the best way to plaster brick walls inside a house?

Compared to facade surfaces, there is a greater variety of compositions available for internal walls and partitions.

Here, the following is utilized for standard plastering:

• cement;
• limestone;
• clay-lime;
• cement-lime;
• gypsum solutions.

Gypsum compounds are hardly ever used for wet rooms. KNAUF is produced exclusively for use in wet rooms, for example. They are pricey, though, when it comes to leveling brickwork. Dry and ready-made mixtures are made on different bases for decorative applications.

How to plaster the facade of a brick house

The most common method for external plastering walls to level brickwork is using cement compositions. Cement-lime mixtures, however, can also be applied. Sanitizing compositions are applied where the first signs of salts are seen. It is not common practice to plaster buildings outside using gypsum mortars.

Differences in technology

The following characteristics are present in outside brick wall plastering that complies with standards:

• It is necessary to reinforce the plaster layer with a metal mesh over the entire surface of the wall.
• Plastering of plastic perforated corners with a mesh is mandatory on the husks (internal corners), whiskers (external corners) and slopes.
• The thickness of the plaster layer is not more than 1.5 cm. Total thickness – up to 3 cm.
• After drying, the primer (base layer) is primed in 2 passes before covering.
• When plastering the base, the plaster coating is buried below the surface of the sidewalk or ground by 5-6 cm. After grouting, the surface is smoothed with a trowel. The base husks are rounded or chamfered.
• All measures are taken to protect the brick wall from atmospheric or soil moisture.

Additional distinctions are found in the conditions for hardening (listed below).

What to do if the layer must be very thick

If the plaster layer’s overall thickness is required to be substantial, it must be reinforced and obtained through multiple layers of plastering. Applying layer after layer is required in this situation (no more than 5 mm for cement-sand mortar). There is no particular need to level the surface of the intermediate layers.

Nuances of plastering brick walls outside

The surface to be treated is covered by a canopy on the street to shield it from the sun’s rays and precipitation. It is decided to have windless weather when plastering the facade. Plaster surfaces are covered with a film in hot weather to prevent excessive moisture evaporation. The wall is periodically moistened if needed, particularly during the initial days.

Decorative plaster on a brick wall

When choosing a mixture for decorative design, decide first what effect you want to achieve. For instance, textured mixtures are not appropriate for creating Venetian "pebble" and "bark beetle."

Among the widely used finishing touches, the following are appropriate:

• for the facade – travertine, bark beetle, lamb, American, rain, fur coat, mosaic, sgraffito or pebble, or make rustication;
• for the room – wet silk, Venetian, craquelure, imitation of brickwork, wood, etc.

The section "Decorative plaster" will familiarize you with the various effects and the technology used to achieve them.

Step	Description
1	Clean the wall surface to remove dust and debris.
2	Apply a primer or bonding agent to help the plaster adhere.
3	Mix the plaster according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
4	Apply the first coat of plaster using a trowel, smoothing it out as you go.
5	Allow the first coat to dry completely before applying a second coat.
6	Apply the second coat of plaster, ensuring an even finish.
7	Once dry, smooth the surface with a sponge or float.
8	Finish with a final coat if needed and allow to cure fully before painting.

If you take the proper precautions, plastering brick walls is a simple process. Smooth and long-lasting plaster application can be accomplished by properly mixing the plaster, properly prepping the surface, and applying the plaster in layers. A good outcome depends on each step, from cleaning the bricks to the last smoothing.

Not only will your walls look better, but they will last longer if you take the time to make sure every step is done carefully. Whether you’re remodeling an old space or building a new one, using the proper plastering technique is crucial.

Plastering brick walls may be a satisfying project that enhances the beauty and value of your home if done correctly. You can attain a polished finish and a surface that endures over time by following these guidelines.

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