Plaster on wood – step-by-step instructions for plastering wooden walls

Plastering can be a great way to give your wooden walls a new, contemporary look. Even though it could seem difficult at first, you can achieve a polished and seamless finish with the appropriate strategy and a little perseverance. Compared to other surfaces, plastering wooden walls requires a few extra steps, but don’t let that scare you. You’ll discover that it’s not as difficult as it might seem with a little help.

Preparation is essential for successful plastering on wood. It can make all the difference between a perfect finish and a frustrating mess to properly prepare your walls. It is necessary to ensure that the wood is primed, dry, and clean. This is an important step because it guarantees a smoother surface and improves plaster adhesion. After your wood has been prepared, you must select the appropriate plaster for the task, as certain plasters adhere better to particular surfaces than others.

The application process follows preparation. In order to lay a strong foundation for plastering wooden walls, a base coat must be applied first. To get the correct smoothness and texture, you’ll apply a finishing coat after it dries. It’s crucial to carefully follow each step and give each coat enough time to dry in between. This will assist you in avoiding common problems such as uneven surfaces and cracks.

Plastering wooden walls is a do-it-yourself project that can be quite satisfying if you pay attention to detail and follow a few simple instructions. Your wooden walls can be transformed into a gorgeous plastered surface that improves the overall appearance of your room with the correct tools and techniques. So prepare to transform your walls into something fashionable and long-lasting by rolling up your sleeves, gathering your supplies, and getting started.

Plastering wooden walls inside the house

Plastering wooden surfaces requires drunking because the wooden surfaces are not able to withstand thick layers of paint. The surfaces of the log walls are all the same, so a thick layer of leveling is necessary. Beacons are therefore employed.

There are only a few steps involved in wood plastering:

1. Preparation of walls
2. Fastening of a fight
3. Installation of lighthouses
4. Application of plaster

Next, make an effort to describe each step in as much detail as you can.

Preparation of walls

Prior to installing the wooden walls, they

• repairs;
• remove excess metal parts;
• cleaned of mold, fat, bitumen and other spots (if necessary, they are solved);
• treated with an antibacterial agent;
• They vibrate the cracks on both sides or dump;
• In the case of adjacent to wooden walls of structures from other materials, for example, concrete base (in detail about the plaster of the basement), their surface is treated with concrete contact;
• In wet rooms, waterproofing coatings (film, roofing material), or waterproofing compounds are attached to the walls.

Wall-mounted rosettes are taken down, and the wiring is de-energized. The wiring is altered if it is not contained in specialized boxes or hoses. Tape is used to seal the platbands. The walls have dried.

Wooden walls outside are also prepared in the same way. Occasionally, a fiberglass or metal grid is utilized in its place. The polymer grid’s joints in vertical corners don’t.

Fastening of a fight

Wood plaster needs to be strengthened. You will need a fight to accomplish this. The wooden rails are thin, 3–5 mm thick, and are stacked on a wall to form a wooden grid with cells spaced 3–5 cm apart.

Punch stuffing stages:

1. Reiki soak, placed in water for 2-3 hours. Water -nourished strips are not split when clogging nails.
2. The first row of fights, called forgiven, is filled at an angle of 45 degrees, using nails 25 mm (with diameter 1.6 mm). The slats are nailed at the ends with two nails in a spacer (so that the shingles are stretched), maintaining the same distance between the edges of the shingles. At the joints between the ends, leave a 0.5 cm gap.
3. On top of the prostil layer, nail the output layer of shingles, for which 5 mm thick slats are used. They are placed perpendicular to the prostil (across). Nails for fastening (40 * 2) are also driven in only at the ends. Gaps at the ends and the step of stuffing are similar to the prostil ones.
4. The resulting mesh is nailed at the intersections of the slats, driving nails on the vertical surface at the nodes through 3 steps (cells), on the ceiling – through two.

When plastering large areas, professional teams prepare the table by removing shingle boards beforehand.

Installation of beacons

Measuring from the output shingle surface, the plaster coating has a thickness of 1.5–2 cm. Use beacons to achieve a smooth surface and speedy plastering. With a step of 1-1.3 meters, beacon strips are positioned vertically using a plumb line, retreating approximately 30 centimeters from the corners. The outermost strips of the wall beacons should be installed first, forming a single vertical plane from the top. Intermediate ones are mounted between them; a cord stretched over the outer strips indicates their position.

Application of plaster

Now let’s talk about how plastering inside a house is done on wood. The three-layer coating method used in this technology is comparable to plastering beacons: splash, primer, and cover.

Prior to beginning work, the wood needs to be:

• dried, have a moisture content of up to 12%, otherwise anaerobic mold may appear in it;
• undergo shrinkage (1-2 years from construction).

A solution with a more liquid consistency is used for splashing. Using a ladle or by hand, the solution is poured onto the shingle cells. Using a trowel to create an excellent splash on the shingles is not feasible. The surface is not level, and the layer thickness can reach up to 10 mm.

Combine a viscous solution for the soil. Using a trowel, apply it up to two centimeters thick. Apply the mixture in one-meter segments in between each beacon. Using a spatula or trowel, level the mortar slightly if it isn’t rising above the beacons. Using a rule, the excess is removed from the second layer by leveling it along the beacons. The rule bar is led in a zigzag pattern (from bottom to top), pressing it up against the beacons.

If there’s not enough mortar, add more composition. The layer is strengthened by moving the tool from top to bottom after the rule has been run two or three times from bottom to top. Fill in all the spaces between the beacons in this manner, little by little. Last to be plastered are the areas close to the corners. After letting the layer harden for five hours, the layer is rubbed in circular motions using a float.

Take the beacons out of the coating before covering. Plastering the remaining grooves with mortar is necessary. Use a semi-liquid mortar with the least amount of filler when covering. Using a spatula, apply it up to 2 mm thick.

Grouting

Using grout, create the smoothest possible surface. Grouting comes in two varieties: circular and longitudinal. Initially, the float is moved in a circle while being slightly compressed; the pressure is applied more heavily over the bulges and less heavily over the depressions. The tool is moved horizontally during the second pass after the float has been moved vertically (up and down) during the first pass.

The plaster on wood is sprayed with water using a spray bottle prior to grouting. Using a spatula, remove the solution gathered on the float’s edges. You can then discard it in a container or apply it to any remaining tiny pores. When preparing a surface for painting or wallpapering, grouting is necessary. Covering and frequent grouting are not required if the walls are going to be plastered with a decorative composition as a final touch. Using a wide spatula to remove the solution pellets is sufficient.

While plastering wooden walls may appear difficult, it is definitely doable with the appropriate technique. This guide simplifies the procedure into simple, step-by-step directions, covering everything from plaster application and finishing to wood surface preparation. These easy-to-follow instructions will help you achieve a smooth, long-lasting plaster finish that improves the appearance and longevity of your wooden walls.

Features of plastering a wooden house from the outside

Only plaster the outside of a wooden house after plastering the interior. If not, the wood will retain the moisture that was absorbed into the walls during the facade plastering process, which will lead to the growth of mold and decay. With one minor exception—the house’s facade is not finished with gypsum plaster—external finishing is completed in a manner akin to internal finishing. without the plaster covering shielding it from the elements and melting precipitation.

The treated areas are shielded from cracks during external plastering work from the effects of sunlight, precipitation, and strong winds. Plastered walls are periodically moistened to prevent shrinkage cracks in dry, hot weather.

Mansions in the countryside frequently use combined facade finishing. Plaster finishing complements the base’s brick cladding nicely. Additionally, it is mixed with different materials.

It’s imperative to fully comprehend which plaster compositions are appropriate for the job.

What is the best way to plaster wooden walls

The specifics of plastering wood pique the interest of homeowners with wooden homes. For instance, what to use, how to plaster a wooden interior wall, what to use for exterior work, and how to perform plastering tasks yourself. It would be best to familiarize yourself with all varieties of plastering mixtures before responding to a barrage of inquiries.

Plastering compositions come in three varieties based on the usage conditions:

• intended for external use;
• used only indoors;
• suitable for the street and indoors – universal.

Plaster solutions have different purposes as well.

The following are the primary varieties of plasters:

• ordinary, used for leveling coatings;
• special, used for protection, for example, from heat loss (thermal insulation), radiation (barite), water penetration (moisture-resistant);
• decorative, intended for finishing, creating unique interiors.

Wood plaster is different not only in its application area but also in its foundation because it employs specific binding agents. The following mixtures, either alone or in combination, are frequently used to self-plaster wood: clay, gypsum, cement, lime. The room’s humidity level, the application’s location, and one’s financial situation are all taken into consideration when choosing a composition.

Clay plaster

Clay mortar was used for a very long time to plaster log walls, beams, and board partitions. This is an inexpensive, user-friendly material. You can buy clay as a dry mixture (henceforth referred to as DM) or extract as much as you require from the ground.

The benefits of clay are widely acknowledged:

• environmental friendliness (the solution can be mixed and applied with bare hands);
• plasticity;
• vapor permeability;
• fire resistance;
• waste-free (dried residues of the solution are soaked for new use);
• repairability;
• versatility (used for plastering wooden partitions and brick stoves);
• does not deteriorate, has a long shelf life.

Furthermore, the clay coating controls the room’s humidity by absorbing extra moisture and releasing it as the space dries. Clay solutions are ideal for novices since they take a while to form and harden gradually. The plaster layer in the house retains heat well thanks to the addition of sawdust, straw, pine needles, and other fillers. Different colored clays are used to create colorful decorative plaster.

• long drying (depending on the thickness of the layer, it can dry up to 2 months);
• gets wet if water gets in (if used outside, make the roof overhang longer, use good drainage, etc. measures);
• It is impossible to apply thin layers (minimum 10 mm), since thin-layer coatings peel off.

The amount of sand in the solution depends on the fat content of the clay; more sand is added to fatty clays, and less sand is taken from lean clays. On the spot, samples are used to determine the final proportions. There is a large range of clay-sand ratios (1:2 – 1:5); the most commonly used compositions are 1:3.

You can use fluffed polypropylene bags and strips cut into 1.5 cm to reinforce the solution.

Cement-sand

Ideal for both interior and exterior plastering of houses. Though well-known, this material has advantages and disadvantages. The material exhibits excellent adhesion, strength, water resistance, and resistance to frost. Ready-made SS with plasticizers and additional additives is available for purchase. You are able to compose the piece on your own.

The ratio of cement to sand for plastering wooden surfaces is between 1:3 and 1:5. In this case, the cement brand, the finishing location, and the specifics of the CPS composition play a major role. The addition of lime makes the solution more malleable.

Gypsum plaster for wood

For interior work (in the dry rooms), compositions with a gypsum base are utilized. Gypsum-based compositions can be used for decorative finishing and leveling because of their good adhesion, plasticity, and capacity to apply thick layers.

Advantages of gypsum materials:

• fast hardening;
• environmental friendliness;
• non -combustibility;
• maintainability;
• non -contrast;
• small weight;
• vapor permeability;
• ease of processing (grinding, formation);
• low thermal conductivity and others.

• small life of the solution;
• water supply (compounds are produced resistant to moisture);
• low frost resistance;
• The price will cost more than the listed.

Gypsum compositions can be bought already formed or made on their own as SS.

Lime

Lime plaster compositions are another naturally occurring, eco-friendly material. There are two types of compositions: basic (lime-sand) and combined (lime plus cement, gypsum, or clay) (as a binder). used for either internal or external work.

Positive aspects of the compositions include:

• antibacteriality;
• fire safety;
• price availability;
• vapor permeability;
• durability;
• repairability;
• strong adhesion to wood, etc.

• two-week strength gain;
• relatively low strength;
• hydrophobia;
• increased alkalinity (good protection is needed when working).

We’ll talk more about the tools required for working with wood and the listed solutions later.

Tools and equipment for plastering on wood

To the primary plastering implements:

• spatulas;
• ladle;
• trowel or float;
• graters;
• brushes;
• rule;
• roller;
• mixer

There are additional shingle stuffing tools. You will also require for work:

• stepladder;
• trestles or scaffolding;
• containers;
• plumb line;
• screwdriver;
• nylon cord;
• hacksaw;
• tape measure;
• masking tape;
• protective equipment.

Step	Instructions
1. Prepare the Surface	Clean the wood wall of dust and dirt. Fill any holes or cracks with wood filler and sand the surface smooth.
2. Apply a Primer	Use a bonding primer suitable for wood to ensure the plaster adheres properly. Apply it evenly and let it dry completely.
3. Mix the Plaster	Prepare the plaster mix according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make sure it"s mixed to the right consistency.
4. Apply the First Coat	Spread the plaster over the wall with a trowel, applying it in a thin, even layer. Let it set but not completely dry.
5. Apply the Second Coat	Once the first coat is slightly dry, apply a second layer of plaster. Smooth it out with the trowel, blending it with the first coat.
6. Smooth and Finish	When the plaster is nearly dry, use a wet sponge or trowel to smooth out any imperfections. Allow the final coat to dry completely.
7. Sand and Paint	After the plaster is fully dry, sand it lightly to remove any rough spots. Then, paint or finish as desired.

Although plastering wooden walls may appear difficult, it can be a simple project if done correctly. These detailed instructions will help you achieve a polished, silky finish that will improve the look and longevity of your wooden surfaces.

To ensure that the plaster adheres well, begin by thoroughly cleaning, sanding, and applying a bonding agent to the wooden wall. These preliminary activities help avoid common problems like peeling or cracking and lay the groundwork for a successful plastering job.

Work in small, manageable sections and take your time applying the plaster. Make sure every layer is smooth before proceeding to the next by using even strokes. Here, being patient will pay off in the form of a perfect surface that is prepared for any final touches you may choose to apply.

After the plaster has set, take your time finishing. After smoothing out any blemishes with sanding, coat or seal your work with an appropriate paint or varnish to preserve and improve it. This last stage not only completes the look but also contributes to the plastered wall’s durability.

Plastering wooden walls can be a rewarding do-it-yourself project if you have a little patience and pay attention to detail. By following these simple steps, you’ll achieve beautifully finished walls that give your space a polished appearance.

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