Plastering the base of a private house

A private home’s base plastering is a crucial part of finishing and safeguarding your property. If not adequately covered, the base, also known as the foundation, may deteriorate over time due to exposure to the elements. Plastering it will protect it from moisture and wear while also enhancing the appearance of your house.

With the correct equipment and supplies, many homeowners can complete the task of plastering the base by themselves. In order to achieve a long-lasting and appealing finish, it entails priming the surface, selecting the appropriate plaster mixture, and applying it correctly.

This tutorial will take you step-by-step through the fundamentals of plastering a private home’s base, making the procedure simple and doable. Appropriate plastering will make a big difference, whether you’re finishing up a new construction or updating the appearance of an older house.

Requirements for base plaster

The base’s placement within the house’s structure determines the specific standards for the plaster finish on the base. This building’s facade, which may be in contact with the ground, is more likely to experience mechanical impact and heavy moisture on a regular basis.

Consequently, the base plaster ought to possess the subsequent attributes:

• high strength;
• resistance to aggressive substances;
• frost resistance;
• easy to clean;
• resistance to UV radiation;
• fire resistance;
• high hydrophobicity;
• vapor permeability;
• resistance to fungus, mold;
• easy local and general repairs;
• durability;
• environmental friendliness;
• solidity;
• aesthetics.

A novice should be aware of which plaster composition satisfies these specifications.

Suitable types of plaster

Plastering the base can be done with a variety of ready-made (already mixed) or dry mixes (henceforth referred to as DM). These are compositions meant for outdoor work (though universal pieces work well too). Finishing is done with decorative plasters, also known as facades.

For leveling, standard cement (mineral) compositions with sand filler are frequently utilized.

However, traditional cement compositions are not appropriate because they are easily covered in cracks, especially if a new private house is still going through the shrinkage process, is experiencing vibrations from the railway, or is situated in an earthquake-prone area. For the base, other mineral plaster mixtures are not appropriate.

For base plaster, the following kinds of bases are typically used:

• mineral (strong, but easily soiled, prone to cracking, vapor permeable, durable, cheap);
• acrylic (strong enough, elastic, have a variety of colors, waterproof, have low vapor permeability);
• silicate (strong, have high vapor permeability, hydrophobic, easy and quick to wash, taking into account that they require preliminary priming on a liquid glass base. They are more expensive than mineral and acrylic compositions, set very quickly);
• silicone (super elastic; very strong, "breathable", water-repellent, durable, but expensive);
• polymer-cement (budget option, strong, "breathable", resistant to cracking).

Additionally, special plasters are applied to the plinth as needed, such as sanitizing, warming, and waterproofing ones.

A wooden house’s base may occasionally be constructed of water-resistant wood as well. Particularly these kinds of structures require protection.

A private home’s base should be plastered to give it a polished, finished appearance and to protect the foundation from moisture and weather damage. This is a practical and necessary step. It strengthens the structure’s insulation, helps to stop cracks, and gives it a layer of durability. Homeowners can prolong the life of their foundation in addition to improving the appearance of their house by carefully applying plaster.

Independent production of plaster mix

You can mix a plaster cement mixture by hand in order to plaster the house’s foundation. This will be less expensive than purchasing SS. Every part is readily available. In this composition, Portland cement grades 400 or 500 serve as the binder and river or quarry sand as the filler. Sand with dust is sifted and rinsed. Use cold, clean water for mixing, and add detergent or PVA as a plasticizer.

The formula for a typical solution is 1:3–4 (take 3 or 4 parts of sand for every volumetric part of cement; 4 parts – for M500). Water is added as needed because it changes during the mixing process.

If the solution is made in a container, combine the dry ingredients in the container first, then add the water last:

• step 1 – sift the sand using a metal sieve;
• step 2 – pour the specified amount of sand into the trough;
• step 3 – evenly sprinkle the measured amount of cement over the sand;
• step 4 – mix everything thoroughly (then add dry dye, if necessary);
• step 5 – dissolve the plasticizer (PVA, liquid soap) and colorant (if necessary) in water;
• step 6 – gradually pour in water, mix the solution to the desired consistency.

If using a mortar mixer, add the cement and sand to the revolving bulb after adding the majority of the water. Here’s how to prepare warm perlite plaster.

Surface preparation

The base may be made of any material and in a variety of designs. Every surface preparation for plastering, whether it be brick or concrete, has specific requirements.

Preparing a brick plinth

An ugly picture might emerge after the old plaster is removed because the mortar that was used to seal the old brickwork’s joints is starting to crumble. The bricks that need to be replaced are visible. After that, dust is removed, the old mortar is scraped off with a wire brush, the seams are cleared of debris, and some of the rejected brick is removed.

Repairs are made by inserting new bricks into the masonry, seating them on the mortar, after wetting the surface with water. Mortar is used to fill in deep seams, leaving the top 10 mm of the seams open. A wire brush is also used to clean newly laid masonry. To improve the plinth’s adherence to the mortar, the seams are one centimeter deeper. Thoroughly moisten the brickwork prior to plastering it.

Preparing a rubble and rubble concrete base

This base might also need to have crumbling mortar removed and inappropriate stones replaced. The stones are put back on the mortar in the same location after the loose stones have been removed and the area has been cleaned. A non-shrink mortar is used to fill in the resulting voids.

Preparation of concrete and reinforced concrete foundations

It is necessary to fix any found chips, cracks, and potholes. Should the fissures indicate the shifting of the foundation, it is reinforced. The fissures have widened. The dust is removed from the surface. With the addition of sand, cement mortar is used to permanently seal the cracks. For added strength, use mesh reinforcement. As a primer, betonkontakt is employed.

Plastering tool

• trowel, as well as spatulas;
• beacon strips;
• grater;
• brush;
• rule;
• cord;
• tape measure;
• hammer;
• mixer;
• capacity.

Technology of plastering the base of a private house

Let’s now discuss plastering the foundation (base).

Characteristics of the technology used to plaster a home’s basement:

• optimal air temperature +20°С (it is possible to work at +5,+35°С);
• humidity – 60% (it is impossible to work during precipitation, for normal hardening it is recommended to choose a weather "window" of several days without precipitation, without wind, or protect fresh plaster with a film);
• the base must be protected from direct sunlight;
• foundation plastering is performed in several stages;
• at each stage of plastering, a solution of a certain consistency (composition) is used, there are two or three such layers – splash, primer, cover (in case of painting, for tiling or for decorative plastering, it is not needed);
• observe the minimum layer thickness – 10 mm;
• use beacons when leveling;

Preparatory work

The aspects of preparing the base in particular scenarios were taken into consideration above.

Overarching work principle:

The old, useless foundation plaster is taken out. Cement mortar is used to patch cracks and potholes; for significant damage, reinforcing mesh is used. Grease stains, fat, rust, and salt protrusions must be removed from the base before applying the solution.

Fumigation and mold foci cannot be removed. Foreign stains are removed with water, dried, and special treatment. Cut out any excess metal, then use oil paint to isolate the remaining pieces. Make notches in the concrete (two millimeters is a sufficient depth). Clear the dust from the surface.

Applying the primer

The prepared base is primed with two coats of an appropriate primer once it has dried.

Generally speaking, deep penetration compounds are used for porous bases like brick. A roller or brush is used to apply primer to brick and other difficult-to-reach areas. After using a primer layer, let it dry. The plaster coating is primed prior to painting, but a different product—typically acrylic-based—is used for deep penetration and water resistance.

Securing the plaster mesh

Plastering a house’s foundation requires consideration of the fact that the finished product is a multi-layered structure. If it is made of various materials, then each material’s temperature-dependent linear expansion may differ, resulting in delamination and a compromise of the structural integrity as a whole. As a result, the grid is covered with base plaster.

When using insulation and at thicknesses greater than 20 mm, a mesh is required. It is advised to use 20×20 mm stainless steel wire or galvanized low-carbon steel mesh, which has an expansion coefficient similar to that of concrete. Nails (which can be scored into brick masonry seams) or special dowels are used to secure the grid to the basement. Grid cloaks come together.

Installation of beacons

Install the beacons following the grid installation. Use a cord to measure the surface’s curvature in order to accomplish this. Locate the point that protrudes the most. As you install the strips and concentrate on it, create a vertical plane. Make a note of the beacon strip lines. Hammer in dowels along each line’s edges, taking a small step back to ensure that the caps are in the same vertical plane.

Additionally, every beacon’s upper edges ought to be in the same plane. Over the intended line, marks are made with the solution (not extending above the cord) along a cord that is pulled between the dowels (along the caps). After applying the beacon profiles to the marks, gently press them in until the top of the profiles touches the cord. Plastering can begin once the mark solution has had time to dry.

Splashing

Splashing is the first step in plastering a house’s foundation with your hands. This is the initial layer of the solution, which is necessary to enable the primary plaster to be applied to the basement wall with ease and a firm grip. The mixture gets more fluid. It fills in small voids and fissures when thrown. Use a trowel or ladle to toss it.

Level it slightly if needed, but only to ensure that air bubbles don’t stay beneath the beacon strips. In order to improve the adhesion of the subsequent layer to the spray layer, if a work break is anticipated, the layer is marked using the spatula’s horizontal corner. It can only be allowed to dry after this. Primers are usually applied immediately after the previous layer has had a chance to set.

Plastering

The primary layer of plaster is called primer. Normal viscosity is used to solve it; it is thicker than spraying. Order of work:

• The composition is applied with a trowel or spatula, throwing a cake after a cake in rows. Their height should protrude above the beacons.
• Having thrown the solution (between two beacons) a meter and a half in length, level the layer with a rule. The rule is pressed against the beacons, and, moving it to the right and left (shuttle movements), it is moved from bottom to top. Excess solution is collected on the rule, which is thrown into a container with a spatula or sent to the base where there is not enough solution. After running the rule from bottom to top several times, having leveled the solution on the site, it is carried out from top to bottom. After this technique, the solution on the wall will not slide.
• They continue to throw the solution and led it with the rule until they melt the whole side of the basement.
• If plastering is done in two layers (for subsequent tiling or decorative plaster that hides small irregularities), then after the solution has set, the beacons are removed by lifting them with a spatula. The places of the beacon strips are sealed with mortar, leveling with a wide spatula.
• If painting or thin-layer decorative plaster is planned, then a third layer is applied – a cover. The cover has the same composition, only sand for the mortar is taken up to 1.5 mm in size (sifted through a sieve with cells of the same size). The consistency of the cover is the same as that of the splash. Apply with a spatula or trowel in a layer of up to 2 mm.

Special reinforcing corners are installed on the corners in preparation for plastering the corner portion.

Grouting

The top layer of plaster needs to be properly rubbed and sanded before painting can begin. Using a grater, apply the grout as soon as the solution grabs (but hasn’t hardened yet). Assess preparedness by conducting an adhesion test. Rub the area until the solution no longer sticks to your finger. There is nothing complicated about the technology. The operation aims to remove any remaining protrusions from the surface and level it.

Water is applied to the area that needs to be treated (a brush or sponge will suffice to moisten the area). Using a float, apply pressure to the surface and rub in circular motions (also known as circular grouting). In this instance, applying force is not necessary. Reduce the pressure over the depressions and slightly increase it over the bumps to move the float. The solution is emptied into a bucket once it has gathered on the float’s side.

Features of decorative finishing

The foundation’s decorative plastering gives the building’s overall appearance a sense of completion. You can use decorative plastering, painting, or basement tiling as a finish for the foundation.

They typically use compositions to produce a variety of effects:

• textured;
• structural;
• pebble (mosaic plaster).

The plinth adorned with pebble plaster appears sophisticated. It is preferable to use compositions with a significant amount of filler for the base. Select textured mixtures if you wish to use the imprint method to decorate the foundation using figured rollers, stamps, or a matrix.

Common finishes that structural plasters can be used for:

• "bark beetle" (ready-made mixtures are called that);
• "lamb" (made using simple techniques);
• "fur coat".

Structural or textured plaster can be used to create both a lamb and a fur coat. Finishing the foundation under a stone gives a private house a basic, important look. Humanity has loved stone since the Paleolithic era because of its strength, dependability, and durability.

Decorative plastering beneath a stone can be applied in a number of ways. For instance, you can use a matrix or structural plaster to simulate a shattered stone. But 3D plaster produces the most striking decorative effect.

Next, how to create a 3D stonework imitation.

1. The prepared solution is applied to the wall, without much leveling. You can even apply it by hand.
2. Using a knife, a putty knife or a homemade cutter with a corner, select the grooves with which you will imitate the seams of the stonework.
3. When the solution sets a little, the edges of the seams are smoothed with a brush, trying to give them a natural look. The brush can be slightly moistened. The surface of the "pebbles" can be slightly smoothed so that they look like smooth cobblestones, or you can leave it uneven – "torn".
4. To finally make them smooth, smooth them with a damp sponge.
5. After the solution dries, before painting, you need to cover the "masonry" with a primer. Let it dry for a day.
6. The dried "masonry" is painted with paint using a sponge to match the color of the natural stone. It is better to use two or three colors close to natural tones. To obtain a natural color, add a little black color to the paint, which will reduce the brightness. Use the "dry brush" technique to apply local whitish spots on protruding parts, which will give "antiquity". The seams are painted in dark tones.

Avoid creating a stone pattern that resembles fish scales. Such forms do not exist in nature.

How to paint the base of a house over plaster

Finishing paint the base over the plaster. It is important to choose and apply paint carefully to prevent fading and premature peeling. Only facade paint is appropriate for painting the plastered surface of the base, which is the house’s external element. Compositions made of silicone, acrylic, or a combination would be a good choice. These paints are elastic, long-lasting, UV-resistant, and vapor-permeable.

Align the color of the basement with the house’s general color palette. Resin can be painted on the base; once dry, it takes on a dark, matte appearance. Using a roller, the resin is applied after being diluted with kerosene.

On the outside surfaces of brown and gray, dirt is less noticeable.

Tips and recommendations

• Any technology only leads to the expected result when it is correctly performed. This also applies to the repair of the base of a private house.
• If the base is made with a blind area, then less water gets on it. But if there is no blind area, then the bottom of the base is plastered with a waterproofing compound.
• Remember about protective equipment, use them during work.
• Do not use fans or heaters to dry the plaster. When the solution gains strength naturally, cracks will not appear, and the strength of the plaster will be higher.

Step	Description
1. Surface Preparation	Clean the base thoroughly by removing dirt, debris, and any loose material.
2. Applying Primer	Apply a primer to improve the adhesion of the plaster to the surface.
3. First Layer of Plaster	Apply the first rough coat of plaster, making sure to cover all areas evenly.
4. Reinforcement	Install mesh or another reinforcing material to prevent cracking.
5. Final Layer of Plaster	Apply the final smooth coat of plaster to give the surface a finished look.
6. Curing	Allow the plaster to dry and harden for the recommended period before painting or finishing.

A private home’s base can be strengthened with plaster, which also provides a crucial layer of security. By protecting the foundation from moisture, this procedure can increase the longevity of the building as a whole. It’s a useful step that improves appearance and longevity.

Plastering the base gives a smooth, appealing finish when done correctly. Additionally, it shields against potential harm from weather, water, and other outside factors. For results to last, using the proper tools and methods is essential.

Plastering the base is a simple task that can be completed with careful planning and attention to detail. It’s an investment that pays off because it keeps your home looking well-maintained and the foundation secure.

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