Plastering the base of the house: photos and videos

Your home’s base, also referred to as the plinth or foundation, is more than just its structural component. It’s crucial to maintain it well-protected and aesthetically pleasing because it contributes significantly to your home’s overall appearance. Plastering is one of the best ways to accomplish this. Plastering not only protects the base from moisture and other environmental elements, but it also gives the base a polished, smooth appearance that improves curb appeal.

This post will discuss the plastering of a house’s base and provide helpful hints and methods that you can use. Gaining an understanding of the fundamentals will help you get the best results whether you’re a do-it-yourself enthusiast or intend to hire professionals. In order to help you visualize the process and get ideas for your project, we’ll also include a collection of images and videos that walk you through each step.

Section	Description
Introduction	Overview of the importance of plastering the base of the house, including protection and aesthetics.
Materials Needed	List of essential materials and tools required for plastering the base.
Preparation	Steps to prepare the base, such as cleaning and priming the surface.
Application Techniques	Explanation of different plastering techniques suitable for the base of a house.
Photos	Visual examples of plastered bases to inspire and guide readers.
Videos	Links to instructional videos showing the plastering process.
Common Mistakes	Tips on avoiding common mistakes when plastering the base.
Maintenance	Advice on how to maintain the plastered base over time.

How to create a relief on the plaster of the base under the stone without a tool with your own hands.

Initially, a standard cement-sand plaster (primer, splash) is used. Then, mimic the masonry without waiting for it to set and dry. The relief will be more voluminous the thicker the plaster.

The prepared plaster is smoothed to remove any roughness or tiny chips. However, the overall plane may be left irregular, giving the wall "bumps" and "hollows."

One centimeter of plaster is plenty for a symbolic relief pattern. Applying at least 2.5–3 cm of mortar is required for realistic, volumetric "masonry."

Manual work.

With the use of a thin, sharp object (a piece of wire, an awl, or a nail), a pattern of the future masonry is applied to the freshly plastered surface. Next, the designated line is lowered to the plaster layer’s full (or nearly full) depth. Three tools are used: a piece of tin, a spatula, and a trowel corner. An empirical selection is made of an object that leaves the most distinctive furrow for the selected technique.

The freshly laid basement plaster is cleared of tiny mortar pellets—tiny pieces that have been torn off but haven’t fallen off—when it has nearly dried. Using a moist painter’s mitten, smooth the bulges’ edges.

Using molds (templates).

Using templates can streamline and expedite the process.

Apply a form that has been heavily wet with water to the base’s working surface and press it into the solution to achieve this. The form is sunk as much as possible, tapped with the palm’s edge, to maximize the clarity of the imprint.

Depending on how it rotates, a single template can have two patterns.

Different patterns are applied to multiple forms of the same type to create "masonry" that looks more natural.

How to paint the plaster of a plinth finished to look like stone.

The plinth’s finish can be categorized by color into:

• Single-color plinths. Unpainted (having the original color of the plaster) or painted in one tone.
• Two-color plinths are painted, and then a different color is given to the seams of their “masonry”.
• Realistic stone masonry. Have many shades and tones. Such imitation is the most complex and labor-intensive, but more effective than others.

Paint techniques are easy to use and suitable for builders of all skill levels. All that needs to be kept in mind, within the context of the overall design concept, is that certain colors and their shades are better off not being "combined" on a single building. The foundation paint should have a tone or two different from the walls. The base’s color can "echo" the color of the building’s corners, windows, doors, and roof.

Combination of shades of the “stone” base with the color of the walls.

• Light blue walls. The most “pleasant” combination is with a grayish-blue, chocolate-brown stone.

Such walls are not appropriate for orange, red, or greenish-colored stone.

• Turquoise. Dark, warm-bluish stones can be harmoniously placed against such a background. Red and orange will look contradictory, tasteless.
• Light green – grayish-green and cold green (close to “green”). Unsuccessful combination – warm, bright tones (orange, red) and related (blue).
• Yellow. For warm – brown pebbles, for cold shades (lemon) – dark green warm (chrome).
• Beige. Chocolate brown. But not green, blue.
• White. Achromatic tones (white, gray) are combined with any color. For example, dark gray stone harmoniously "fits" into any color scheme.

Unable to establish a connection crimson and blue. Except for pastel shades, these are opposite colors that don’t go well together. It isn’t mixed with green and red.

The basic rule is to combine similar hues with varying degrees of saturation and heat, such as lemon and dark green, pink and cherry, yellow and cold brown, and blue and t. blue.

Methods of painting "Stone".

Plaster can be tinted using a variety of conventional methods, including coloring, adding toning to the wall, "pouring" fresh plaster with pigment, and using painted solutions.

Tinting of a plaster solution.

It is possible to tint pre-made finishing mixtures. They can have pigment added to them if they are made independently. Both dry powder and liquid acrylic coloring are used for this.

You can achieve a range of shades and plausibility by combining multiple colors:

• The concrete solution in the trough is divided into 3-4 sections.
• Each is thoroughly mixed with a pigment of a certain color (for example, light gray, yellowish, pale green and brown).
• The finished parts are lightly mixed so that they do not merge into one tone, but only lose their boundaries.

Randomness of tone is introduced when decorating plaster "under the stone" with such concrete. This imparts an exclusive look to the finish.

Tinting concrete is the simplest painting technique. However, it can also be enhanced by painting each component separately in the future.

Tinting decorative plaster of the base and walls of the house with paints.

Both fresh and dried plaster can be used to produce it. The solution’s color can be enhanced with more tones even if it already has a suitable shade.

There are several methods for doing this.

1. "Pigmentation" of wet plaster. The freshly laid solution is “painted” with a brush, which is “dipped” in powder pigment. Then the wetted mold is “sunk” into the plaster.

The least amount of pigment is used in this painting, making it the most cost-effective.

The plaster is covered with acrylic varnish once it has dried.

1. Painting dried concrete. To cover the plaster, use appropriate paints for outdoor concrete work.

• First, the general tone is applied.
• Then a darker one (for example, for golden – t. brown), but not over the entire area, but only in the deepest depressions, seams.
• When the paint dries, the most convex parts of the “stones” are covered with light paint (for golden – whitish-yellow).

Use a piece of sponge or foam rubber to blur the edges of the color inserts.

Using a roller with short hair, apply the final (light) tone.

Any paint, including pigments, needs to be varnished to provide protection. Furthermore, a semi-matte gloss will only make the relief seem more realistic.

Preparing the base for plastering.

Surface preparation is necessary before applying decorative plaster to the base, which is completed in the same manner as regular wall plastering.

New basement

Preparing a freshly painted basement wall doesn’t require any special steps. It is simply moistened with water and allowed to drain and partially absorb before applying the coating.

Preparing an old basement during repairs.

An ancient basement wall needs more care:

1. Removing old coatings. Anything that does not hold well, wobbles or moves when pressed (old concrete coatings) must be removed and cleaned.

Anything that "wobbles" or has weaker layers, such as plasters made of clay, lime, or chalk whitewash, cannot be covered with concrete. Its relationship to that kind of surface won’t be trustworthy.

1. Sealing cracks, depressions. Deep depressions in the wall must be sealed:

• Cracks. If possible, cracks and crevices are widened, the reinforcing mesh is strengthened here and “filled” with mortar, working with energetic “slaps”.
• Recesses. Deep (more 1-2 cm) depressions in the wall are usually filled and leveled. Plastering the base under the stone in a certain sense “needs” some curvature of the walls, so it looks more believable.
• Masonry losses. Stone or brick falls must be replenished. To do this, throw mortar into the opening and insert a suitable sized pebble.

1. Primer. Before applying plaster, the wall should be covered with primer. This will increase adhesion and fill the pores so that they do not “pull” water out of the mortar, weakening it, and the basement “stone” plaster does not fall off over time.

The prepared surface needs to be clear, firm, and hard.

Composition of the solution for decorative plastering of the basement.

Independent preparation.

Normal plaster mortar is composed of cement and sand in a ratio of 1/100th of a cement grade (i.e., 1:5) for M500. Using the same standard technology used for regular plaster coatings, the basement beneath the stone is plastered.

Ready-made plasters.

While using pre-made mixtures makes finishing more expensive, it also makes it much simpler.

There are a lot of pre-made compositions created. Knauf plaster is the most widely used type for bases, though many domestic mixes are also quite good.

A house’s base must be plastered in order to guarantee both strength and curb appeal. A well-done plaster job improves the appearance of your house overall and shields the foundation from environmental harm like moisture and high temperatures.

You can achieve a polished finish that will last for years by using the methods and advice provided in this article. A successful result depends on paying close attention to detail, regardless of whether you choose to use more contemporary materials or conventional plastering techniques.

Recall that one of your home’s weakest points is its foundation. You can protect your home’s structural integrity for many years to come with careful planning, application, and routine maintenance.

A house’s base must be plastered in order to improve insulation, shield the foundation from moisture, and improve the building’s overall appearance. This post will walk you through every step of the procedure, from choosing the appropriate supplies to applying the plaster, with easy-to-follow directions, practical advice, and step-by-step images and videos. Whether you’re an experienced do-it-yourselfer or a novice, you’ll discover how to accomplish a polished finish that will protect your house for many years.

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