Plastering the garage – to protect the car, comfortable work, warmth and beauty

The way your garage looks and works can be significantly changed by plastering it. A well-plastered garage not only shields your vehicle from harm but also improves the comfort and usefulness of your workspace. Plastering your garage can improve its usefulness and aesthetics, whether you use it for storage, hobbies, or as an additional room.

The improved insulation that plastering offers is one of its primary advantages. In colder weather, a garage with proper plastering helps maintain a constant temperature, which makes it more comfortable. This protects your vehicle, tools, and other belongings from temperature changes that could eventually harm them.

Plastering not only has practical benefits, but it also gives your garage a stylish touch. It can give the area a polished, tidy appearance, which is beneficial if you use the garage as an extra living space or office. With so many different plaster finishes to choose from, you can match the plaster finish to the rest of the decor in your house.

Aspect	Description
Protection	Plastering the garage helps protect your car from environmental damage, like dust and moisture, which can cause wear and tear over time.
Comfort	Well-applied plaster creates a smoother, more comfortable workspace, making it easier to work on your car or store items without hassle.
Insulation	Plastering can improve insulation, helping to keep the garage warmer in winter and cooler in summer, which is beneficial for both the car and any tools stored inside.
Aesthetics	Plastering enhances the overall look of your garage, giving it a cleaner, more finished appearance that complements the rest of your home.

Why do you need to plaster the walls in the garage

When you purchase or construct a garage yourself, you hope for more than just the car staying dry in the rain or snow-covered. You want to make a place for yourself where you can keep all the tools, spare parts, and other stuff you need in a dry, secure location and where you can work on your favorite equipment without worrying about drafts from the cold or wet.

You anticipate that the garage walls won’t be alarmed by any kind of defect, such as mold stains, brick painting, or splashing. The building structures are shielded to prevent moisture, rust, efflorescence, and drafts from entering the interior space.

Plastering is the most affordable and widely accessible of the available techniques. Plastering not only adds visual appeal but also effectively shields the garage walls from moisture, mechanical harm, and piercing drafts.

I agree that spending time in a comfortable setting is preferable to one in a run-down space. You can give the building a distinctive appearance with the use of decorative plaster. It is easier to warm up a garage in the winter when it is plastered with a heat-insulating compound.

The following are some benefits of plaster coatings:

• fireproof;
• ecologically friendly;
• do not absorb odors;
• washable;
• easily repaired in case of local damage;
• not favored by microfauna, microflora;
• durable;
• cheaper;
• can be made with your own hand;
• look nice.

When the plaster mixes were chosen improperly or the plastering technology was broken, drawbacks arise. As a result, we will go on to address the primary queries that newcomers to the plastering trade have.

Plastering your garage is a practical decision with many advantages; it’s not just about looks. Plastering a room improves the insulation to keep the space warmer, protects your car from dust and moisture, and makes it a more comfortable place to work. Furthermore, a well-executed plaster job improves the appearance of your garage as a whole, increasing its usability and adding value to your house.

How to plaster the walls in the garage

The quality of the original plaster mixes and their appropriate selection directly affects the quality of the subsequent coating. There are plasters that are universally suitable for use in rooms that are not exposed to frost, rain, or hail. They can also be used outdoors, where they can withstand UV ray attacks, increased abrasive or impact loads, aggressive city atmosphere, and periodic freezing and thawing.

Certain plasters are made specifically to be used in the "greenhouse" environment of a heated room. There are facade mixtures that are long-lasting and contain ingredients that help coatings resist the negative "influence of the street." "Greenhouse sissies," or mixtures intended for interior work, are not appropriate for plastering a garage. A decision must be made between facade and universal mixtures.

The pieces are separated into the following categories based on their intended use:

• conventional (used to level out surface unevenness);
• decorative (used for decoration);
• special.

Regarding the latter, a few words must be spoken separately. Heat-insulating, acoustic, waterproofing, sanitizing, and other specialty plasters are available. First of all, waterproofing and heat protection might be of interest to you.

The fundamental components of all plaster compositions—binders—determine their primary characteristics. These materials can be synthetic or natural.

Natural (mineral) binders can be abundant on shelves or beneath your feet, like clay. These consist of slaked or lump lime, gypsum, and different kinds of cement. They are the least expensive, which makes them the most appealing. As mineral plasters have stood the test of time, let’s begin with them.

Cement

The mineral with the highest strength. A binder can be other types of cement or, more frequently, Portland cement. quickly sets and forms a dense coating, but it takes a while to reach its peak strength. Cement-sand (CPS) mortars are the most well-known kind.

Depending on the intended use of the mixture, the ratio of cement to sand can range from 1:1 to 1:4.5. The compositions are referred to as fatty if there is a significant cement content. They are prone to shrinking during the hardening process, which causes cracks to appear. The compositions are lean when there is insufficient cement, which significantly reduces the coating’s strength. The ratio of typical CPS is 1:3.

Cement coating benefits

• reduced water permeability;
• durability,
• strength,
• environmental friendliness;
• frost resistance;
• repairability;
• fire safety.

• lack of elasticity (do not withstand vibration loads and seismicity);
• in the first days after application, care is required (preservation of internal moisture).

When combined with other binders, such as lime, cement creates a mixture that is flexible when applied. It is used outside more often than other mineral solutions.

Gypsum

An iconic concoction for interior design. It is not advised to plaster a garage with gypsum plaster from the outside since gypsum and water do not get along. However, gypsum works well under a heated garage’s roof as long as the floor is adequately waterproofed. Compared to other "mineral waters," the composition gets stronger faster. The mixture is easy to lay and quite malleable.

After "hydrophobia," the second drawback is its extremely quick setting. As a result, a partial solution is made so that the full can be applied in time. The fact that it does not shrink is a big plus.

Because gypsum compositions have a high vapor permeability, they foster a favorable microclimate inside the garage. Breathe deeply into the materials beneath the plaster.

Limestone

Cheap combination that appeals to the senses due to its antimicrobial qualities. Use lime paste, fluff, or suspension (milk) to make the solution. Lime is less strong than cement and gypsum in terms of properties. Consequently, complicated mixtures like cement-lime or lime-gypsum are frequently utilized. Plastering facades can be effectively accomplished with a 20% cement addition to lime-sand mortar.

• vapor permeability;
• fire resistance;
• good adhesion to drywall, wood, mineral compounds;
• workability;
• maintainability;
• durability.

• takes a long time to gain strength, less resistant;
• protection is required when applying and mixing;
• not resistant to vibrations.

Other modern materials

Modern synthetic compounds must be mentioned to round out the information. Like an "ugly duckling," silicate compositions (liquid glass was formerly referred to as silicate glue by all schoolchildren) vary among mineral plasters.

When applied to the wall, a solution that acts "like a pig" (setting quickly, being erratic when mixing, and being particular about the primer and paint composition) soon becomes stronger and transforms into a "beautiful swan."

• forms a durable coating;
• resistant to chemically aggressive substances;
• easy to clean;
• waterproof;
• allows air to pass through;
• does not form shrinkage cracks when drying;
• fire resistant;
• excellent coating for porous materials and insulation;
• good adhesion;
• also used for decorative purposes.

• the highest price among mineral mixtures;
• poorly tolerated shrinkage of the base, vibration;
• work clothes are “destroyed” – you have to throw them away.

Popular among builders, acrylic mixtures have most of the advantages of mineral mixtures without any drawbacks of their own:

• accumulate static and, in addition, dust;
• no fire resistance without special additives;
• impermeable to pores;
• requires fast work of the plasterer.

The benefits outweigh the drawbacks in importance:

• high elasticity;
• cheaper than other synthetic mixtures;
• reliable adhesion;
• can be washed by watering with a hose;
• rich palette;
• water resistance;
• strength;
• durability.

The silicone mixture is the "very best" among the artificial ones.

What matters most is this:

• expensive;
• elastic (extends by 200%);
• “sticky” — adheres well and firmly to almost all bases;
• durable.

Silicone resins form the basis. forms a difficult-to-remove polymer film. It keeps water from penetrating by allowing air to flow through. environmentally friendly and unafraid of vibrations and precipitation. It makes more sense to use decorative compositions because of their high cost.

Choosing the optimal plaster solution

Be ready to use a variety of compounds if you choose to plaster the garage’s walls and facade by hand.

How to plaster the garage inside

The walls and ceiling of the garage are plastered internally. Since the latter is more challenging, it is more practical to use easily laid mixtures. This holds true for gypsum. There are no blows or abrasions to the ceiling. For the ceiling, therefore, a particularly robust coating is not necessary; the same cannot be said for the walls.

Things that aren’t always tidily arranged on racks are loaded onto the garage walls (behind the floor). Particularly frequently, the lower portion is "touched." As a result, for walls, acrylic finish coating will be a cost-effective and practical alternative for CPS alignment.

The bottom won’t have any extra waterproofing plaster. However, if it’s not worth the trouble, a single cement-sand mixture will do.

Plastering of the external walls

It’s simpler to select a plaster for finishing an outdoor garage. These compositions are always meant to be used as facades (or universal). Waterproofing plaster is the best option for walls that are exposed to moisture. A cement-lime sand mixture would be an inexpensive choice for a dry climate.

Necessary tools and materials

You’ll need the same tools plasterers use to apply the coating:

• a trowel or a float;
• a ladle, if the surface has to be leveled);
• spatulas;
• brushes;
• a plumb line, a level;
• a roller;
• a mixer;
• a rule;
• a tape measure;
• a pencil;
• a float;
• masking tape.

Additionally, you must restock on the necessary quantity of the materials themselves:

• a primer;
• a dry or ready-made plaster mix (or the original components).

Beacons, containers, a construction cord, self-tapping screws, and protective gear are among the auxiliary devices you’ll need.

Manual plastering technology

The following requirements must be met for plastering a garage, regardless of the compositions you choose:

• temperature within +5…+30оС;
• no precipitation;
• humidity up to 60%.

The work area is shielded from sudden precipitation and direct sunlight.

The wiring has been disconnected. Masking tape is placed over the tops of the sockets. There is also tape protecting the window frame and door trims, if applicable.

The steps involved in plastering are as follows:

• prepare the surface;
• measure the wall to determine the evenness and calculate the composition requirements;
• mount the reinforcement mesh;
• install beacons;
• prepare the solution;
• perform plastering;
• dismantle the beacon strips, fill the grooves;
• smooth out;
• perform the finishing.

Surface preparation

Surface preparation is necessary to guarantee that the finishing layer adheres firmly to the base material and to keep stains, rust, and other contaminants from penetrating the plaster "jacket" surface. That is, the surface needs to be free of dust and stains by the time the composition is applied. It shouldn’t have any extraneous fasteners or metal components; the ones that are left should be isolated, perhaps with oil paint. Washing and applying a biocidal composition neutralizes the bio-damage foci.

Large cavities and cracks are filled with cement-sand mortar after being joint and dust-free. Fiberglass mesh is also used to reinforce large cracks. An axe is used to cover smooth concrete in a "pattern" of notches to increase adhesion. There are shingles covering the wood’s surface. Wire brushes are used to "scratch" brick walls, deepening the masonry’s joints by 10 mm. The base has been primed and dried on its surface.

Reinforcing mesh

The installation of reinforcing mesh will result in a much longer-lasting garage plaster. If there is a significant thickness coverage, it is required. Dowels spaced equally across the wall’s surface support the installation of the metal mesh.

Establishment of beacons

Plaster mortar is leveled using beacon strips as guides. The vertical plane of the future wall surface and the upper plane of the strips line up. The strips can be constructed from a variety of materials, including plastic, metal, wood, and mortar. Installing them involves a step of 1-1.5 m (or 1-1.2 m for novices).

Locate the area that protrudes the most using a stretched cord. It will serve as a blueprint for building the plaster surface’s plane in the future. Cement-sand mortar must have a minimum 0.5 cm layer. The height of metal strips is 6 mm. The vertical plane will therefore be 6 mm from this point. Beacons are mounted in accordance with the level in consideration of this. The distance between the side beacons and the wall’s edge is 15-20 cm. On mortar patches with a step of thirty, beacons are affixed. This is accomplished in various ways. For a better understanding, watch the video.

Splashing

Two or three passes are made when applying the leveling plaster. This is dependent on the desired surface quality (for painting or decorative plaster) after the work is completed. First stratum: splattering. Its purpose is to guarantee that the coating sticks firmly to the base. The splashing solution is made up to the consistency of thinned-out sour cream.

Using a ladle or trowel, the layer is thrown (splashed) onto the wall. The surface is moistened prior to applying splashing. The solution is thrown without any spaces between it. The layer’s top is not level. If a break is required, the spatula corner is used to mark the layer’s surface with horizontal, wavy lines as soon as it starts to set. After a day, the primer is applied.

Primer

Primer is the primary layer of the leveling coating (base). More viscosity is added to the solution. Using a trowel or spatula, toss the mortar so that it rises above the beacons.

Once you’ve covered about a square meter, take the rule and apply it from the bottom of the wall to the beacons while simultaneously pressing and moving in a zigzag pattern to apply the rule from the top down. The excess that builds up on the rule is transferred with a spatula to areas where the solution is lacking while the solution is leveled at the same time. Generally speaking, two or three transactions are sufficient to achieve leveling.

To level the next area, toss the solution there and repeat. In this manner, the soil is filled in between the beacons, section by section. The wall’s outermost portions are plastered last, typically resting on the beacons or the adjacent area’s leveled mortar. The beacon strips are taken off as soon as the wall is plastered and the mortar has solidified. Soil is placed into the grooves left behind and smoothed out using a broad spatula.

When plastering is done in two passes, the area is rubbed down as soon as the solution is no longer sticky. Use a float to accomplish this, moving it in a circular motion parallel to the wall with little to no pressure. Use a wall spray before grouting. Clear the tool of any mortar that has accumulated on it. This kind of wall leveling is adequate for covering with sheet materials or tiling.

Covering and grinding

The last layer is this one. If the wall is getting ready to be painted, this is done. The mixture is made in a 1:1 ratio, much like liquid sour cream. One millimeter of sand is used as a mixture filler. Use a spatula with rounded corners to apply. Shake off any excess layer before rubbing it in. Once the circular grouting has been finished, grout in a run, using straight float movements. There are two passes involved in this operation. The second linear grouting is vertical if the first was done in a horizontal manner. Fine-grained sandpaper is used to sand the layer once it has dried.

How to calculate the mixture consumption

After the beacons are installed, measure the height of the top of two to three beacon strips above the wall surface multiple times to get an idea of how much mixture will need to be purchased for plastering a garage. It is a good idea to record the maximum and minimum differences. After adding up all of the measurements, the total is divided by the total number of measurements. For instance, if you measured at eighteen different points, the total would be ninety-cm. The average mortar coating thickness, or 5 cm, was obtained by dividing the total by 18.

You will also need to calculate the area of ​​the garage wall. With F = 6 m2, recalculate what footage will be the volume of the coating with a height of 10 mm (this is the thickness of a 100×100 cm square layer, for which the manufacturer calculated the mixture consumption). 6 X 5 = 30 m2. For example, the consumption of the Rotband mixture is 8-10 kg per 1 square meter. 10 x 30 = 300 kg or 10 30 kg kraft bags. However, this amount of mixture will probably not be enough. Therefore, they take with a margin of ~20%. In our case, it is 300 x 1.2 = 360 kg or 12 bags of mixture.

Features of plastering an unheated garage

Temperature variations that cause moisture to build up and saturate the plaster are characteristics of an unheated garage. Consequently, you must make sure to paint the ceiling with hydrophobic paint if you plaster it with gypsum. Applying hydrophobic mixtures to the garage will yield more dependable results. Well-known manufacturers provide such compositions. In a garage like this, the mixture should only be applied when the temperature is sufficiently high.

How to paint the walls in the garage over the plaster

The garage walls are frequently painted with water-based paints after plastering. Acrylic paints adhere to the plaster coating with ease and tenacity, making them ideal for use in an unheated garage. Paint compositions reinforced with polyurethane or alkyd also work well in heated garages. Although it costs more, this method of plaster covering is the most dependable.

Plastering your garage creates a useful area that safeguards your vehicle and your workspace in addition to giving it a new look. A properly applied plaster coat can protect your car from moisture and dirt, keeping it in excellent shape. It also cuts down on maintenance time and effort by making cleaning the garage simpler.

Another important advantage is comfort. Plaster helps keep the temperature inside the garage more consistent by insulating the walls, which makes it a more comfortable place for any projects or chores you perform. By reducing heat loss, this insulation can also improve energy efficiency.

Plastering also improves your garage’s overall aesthetic. A well-polished, smooth surface can make an ugly room seem like it belongs in the rest of your house. This aesthetic improvement can raise the value of your home in addition to improving its aesthetic appeal.

In conclusion, plastering your garage is a wise and beneficial investment. It adds value to your home improvement projects by protecting your car, enhancing comfort, and improving the space’s appearance.

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