Plastering the slopes of the entrance door

Finishing an entryway requires plastering the slopes of the entrance door because it adds durability and visual appeal. These slopes, or the angled portions that encircle the door frame, frequently need extra care to guarantee a polished appearance.

In addition to improving the aesthetic appeal of your entry, properly plastering door slopes aids in producing a smooth transition between the wall and the door. This procedure can stop problems like uneven surfaces and cracking, which happen frequently when plastering is done incorrectly.

We’ll walk you through every step of plastering these slopes in this article, from setup to cleanup. By using the appropriate methods and supplies, you can create a polished, clean look that blends in with the interior design of your house.

How to plaster door slopes

We’ve already covered plastering window slopes in a previous post. Plastering the entrance door’s slopes is a little simpler, but there are a few subtleties.

Plastering involves the following steps being carried out:

• surface preparation;
• marking application;
• installation of beacons;
• if it is planned to apply a layer more than 30 mm, reinforce the base;
• spray application;
• application of the base layer – soil;
• plastering on beacons;
• removal of beacon profiles, sealing of the groove;
• application of grout;
• drying the coating.

The plastering’s ultimate outcome

Preparatory work

A portion of the floor and walls surrounding the doorway are first processed using a number of targets. Primarily, this involves setting up the environment to guarantee a solid bond (adhesion) between the wall material and the plaster coating. If this is not done, the plastering coating will not last very long because the large coating’s constant load, the clapping doors’ vibrations, the materials’ varying behaviors during temperature fluctuations, and the plastering seams’ disappearance will all lead to detachment.

Prior to plastering, the preparation serves the additional function of reinforcing the wall’s surface alignment. The third is preventing fresh solution from becoming dehydrated, which weakens the coating material due to water loss. Additionally, effective preparation stops performance on the spot finishes’ surface.

The steps involved in appropriate preparation are as follows:

• glue the surface of the frame and door with a film, masking tape to protect;
• disconnect sockets and other. reinforcement from the power source;
• when replacing a door block or during repairs, remove the old coating on the adjacent area or on the plastered surface completely;
• cut off excess wall protrusions;
• clean large chips and cracks from debris, prime, repair (reinforce if necessary);
• cover the concrete wall with notches (using a chisel, hatchet or suitable electromechanical tool), expand the seams of the masonry, deepening to 10 mm;
• sweep dust from the surface (or remove it in another way);
• clean from rust, efflorescence, grease, mold, fungus;
• dismantle excess nails and other. metal objects (what you decide to leave is covered with oil paint for insulation);
• switches are sealed with tape;
• after drying the cleaned surface, prime it twice (with drying of layers).

Installing beacons

It is preferable to consider the opening’s geometry when determining how to align the slope. Installing profile perforated corners on the corners is more practical if the slopes are close to the door block. These corners will act as guides for leveling the composition. The box’s frame may serve as the second guide. In this instance, the solution is leveled by creating a template-bevel, at the end of which is a supporting ledge.

The corner is cut to the length of the opening: the shelves on the upper end of the corners for the sidewalls are cut at 45 degrees, the corner for the top is cut at an angle on both sides. The corner is attached directly to the mustache (protruding corner). For fastening, apply plaster mixture to the mustache on both sides, apply the profile to the corner and press it with a rail or rule, controlling the verticality of the position according to the level. The composition protruding through the holes is removed with a spatula, and the solution is leveled along the corner with it. Let the solution dry and harden. Read more about plastering corners in the corresponding article on our website.

Eliminating surplus solution

If a rule is used for alignment, a beacon is installed in addition to the corner. This could be a mortar track, a wooden lath, or a metal profile.

The beacon strip is taken out of the set solution after plastering. The corners are left in place because they help to strengthen the rib.

Creating notches and reinforcement

If you want to notch slopes with your hands, a bush hammer works well for that. This hammer has conical or pyramid-shaped metal protrusions on its working surface. You can use a chisel or a hammer drill with a bush hammer attachment (in impact mode) to hammer individual notches. The plaster layer readily adheres to the irregularities created by the notches. It’s not necessary for the notches to be very deep. It only needs to be 5 mm. The grooves can range in length from 5 to 10 cm.

It is reinforced to give the plaster coating more strength. A metal or polymer mesh is utilized for this. Buying a stainless steel metal mesh with a cell side measuring between 10 and 40 mm is advised. After cutting the mesh into the necessary length strips, it is either tied to the reinforcement outlets or fastened to the wall using self-tapping screws or nails.

Plastering the slopes of the entrance door

Following the manufacturer’s instructions, mix the plaster composition at the conclusion of the preparatory step. The solution is applied starting below. After applying it to the area’s surface with a spatula, level it using a rule or template in accordance with the guidelines.

The technology works similarly to how walls are leveled along beacons. Plaster the top after finishing the sides.

The rule (or template) is drawn with a small cyclic displacement of the tool (zigzag) rather than in a straight line to smoothly plaster the slopes at the doors.

The plaster mass vibrates as a result, liquefying and "flowing" as a result. This has an effect akin to that of a vibrator in concrete. Such a basic technique makes it easy to smooth the surface and allows for better laying.

Finishing work

Consider in advance how the finishing will go. The surface is "finished" after the door slopes are plastered; this could involve painting, applying wallpaper, or adding artificial stone cladding, for example. Ornamental plaster can also be used to cover the surface. Every finishing coat has a different level of smoothness requirements.

There is no need for extra smoothness when installing wallpaper, decorative plaster, or facing materials. But merely rubbing the plaster mortar is insufficient for a thin layer of paint film. The surface must be put in place.

Execute it in sequence:

• After the solution dries, the surface is cleaned with a spatula, removing the lumps of the dried solution, the influxes are polished;
• the coating is primed and dried;
• Apply with a cell and leveled first a thin layer of the starting putty, then the finish putty layer;
• the top of the last layer is polished, if necessary, remove dust.

Certain vibrant compositions require an initial primer.

Arched door slopes plaster

Side straight areas are created normally when arched openings are arranged. Additionally, the plastering of the front door’s arched slopes is done using a plywood template that was made specifically for the purpose. The curved site’s required reinforcement is an additional feature.

Two templates are created for the interior door arched opening, and they are fastened to the wall on both sides using self-tapping screws. If the opening is at the entrance, the arched profile of the door itself will serve as one guide and a plywood template as the other. Here, alignment is done using a rule that has a cut-out protrusion on one of the ends, much like a mitre.

To make it simple to remove the plywood from the plaster, the surface of the template is covered with tape.

The solution is applied to the base using the standard procedure (spray, primer) after the templates and reinforcement have been installed. By placing the rule or mitre on the supporting surfaces, the mixture is leveled. Several alignments are made in one direction, followed by one or two alignments in the opposite direction (for fixing). A float with a rounded working part is used to scrub such a curved surface.

What to plaster with

Plastering a door slope requires choosing a mixture based on the room’s specifications. Cement mixes are used if it is not heated. In an apartment, you can use compounds for internal use, like a gypsum mixture, and a cement mixture for external use to plaster the slopes of the entrance door. You have two options for preparing the composition: either purchase a dry mixture and mix it before work, or prepare each component separately.

The objective of plastering an entrance door’s slopes is to produce a level, smooth surface that both guarantees longevity and improves the door’s appearance. Achieving a professional finish requires careful plaster application—choosing the appropriate plaster, spreading it evenly, and finishing with accuracy. This procedure shields your entrance from wear and weathering while also enhancing its visual appeal.

Tools and materials for work

In order to plaster the opening’s sides, you’ll need:

• mixer (for mixing the mixture);
• spatulas;
• roller;
• short rule or mitre;
• grater;
• level;
• container;
• masking tape, film;
• rags;
• sandpaper;
• paint brush;
• mortar components or dry mix;
• primer;
• putty;
• corner profile;
• reinforcing mesh;
• self-tapping screws;
• clean cool water;
• scaffolding or stepladder;
• personal protective equipment.

Why are slopes finished

The purpose of plastering the entrance door’s slopes is to:

• level, ennoble the wall around the door, make the hallway attractive;
• close the fastening structure of the door package;
• seal the area around the door (plaster forms a monolithic coating);
• additionally insulate the room, reduce the level of noise coming from outside.

If the entrance door’s slopes are plastered, all of these objectives can be met. The primary benefits of plaster are:

• you can give the solution any shape;
• the material is flexible, it can be laid smoothly without much difficulty;
• the compositions are environmentally friendly, non-flammable, create a durable coating;
• finishing and repair can be done with your own hands;
• the material is available, inexpensive.

An entrance door’s slopes can be plastered to improve the wall’s durability in addition to its appearance. Plaster can be applied carefully to create a smooth, uniform finish that enhances the doorway’s appearance and structural soundness.

Following the right procedures is crucial for a successful plastering job. Every step is essential to getting the desired outcome, from priming the surface and choosing the best plaster mix to evenly applying it and finishing with a smooth texture.

By paying close attention to details and exerting some patience, you can make your door slopes look polished and well-integrated into the design of your room. By using the right plastering techniques, you can protect your entrance from future wear and tear in addition to making it look great.

Video on the topic

Plastering the slopes of the entrance door / Door slopes / All stages

How to plaster the slopes of the entrance door

PLASTERING THE SLOPES OF THE ENTRANCE DOOR / HOW TO PLASTER SLOPES

✅ HOW A BEGINNER CAN MAKE SLOPES WITHOUT PLASTER AND PLASTIC FOR CENTURIES | THE EASIEST WAY