Plastering wall corners: methods and step-by-step execution of operations

Even for plasterers with general plastering experience, plastering corners of walls can be challenging. In order to guarantee a crisp, clean finish that blends in with the rest of the wall, corners demand patience and accuracy. Inadequate technique can easily lead to uneven edges or an unsatisfactory surface appearance.

But don’t worry, you can achieve professional-looking corners that blend in seamlessly with the rest of your work if you follow the right procedures and have a well-defined plan. Knowing the step-by-step procedure is essential, regardless of whether you’re working with more complicated angles, inner corners, or outer corners.

This post will explain the various approaches to plastering corners and walk you through each step of the procedure. We can help you with every step of the process, from organizing your supplies to adding the final touches.

Method	Step-by-Step Execution
Using a corner trowel	1. Apply a layer of plaster to both sides of the corner. 2. Use a corner trowel to smooth and shape the plaster into the corner. 3. Allow it to dry slightly, then refine the corner with additional smoothing.
Reinforcing with corner bead	1. Attach a corner bead to the external corner using plaster or adhesive. 2. Apply plaster over the corner bead, ensuring it covers the edges. 3. Smooth the plaster using a trowel, following the contour of the corner bead. 4. Let it dry, then sand down any rough areas.

How to plaster corners

Not all walls must be positioned perpendicular to one another. We’ll talk about them since plastering 90-degree corners is a common problem for beginners.

In plastering, internal corners are referred to as luzga, and external (outer) corners are called usinki. There are various methods for their alignment because of their positive disagreements in the parliament and LUZG.

When plastering techniques are not followed, the husks get cracked (see how to fix plaster cracks), and the whiskers crumble or chip easily. Corner sections are reinforced with reinforcement to guard against potential defects. regarding the various kinds of plaster flaws and how to fix them. Beacons are used to produce higher-quality or better plaster.

When plastering, there are various methods to bring out the corner:

1. Plastering is done according to beacons if it is necessary to obtain even corners with thick-layer leveling. Usually, beacons are used for husks, installing them 10 cm from the corner edge. The sequence of operations is similar to leveling walls using beacons.
2. Any corners are plastered using squares (perforated corners – counter-shuls), if the plaster is thin. Used with a layer thickness of up to 10 mm. Apply the solution on both sides of the base, attach the corner, press down, checking the position with a level on the rule, apply and level the layer over the corner.
3. External corners are plastered using edged wooden boards.
4. If profiled decorative cornices are made, corners are cut using a specially made wooden ruler. This work is left to specialists.
5. The corner of the wall can be formed using a corner spatula for thin-layer plastering. Corner spatulas for external corners have their own configuration, for internal ones – their own. The solution is applied with a regular spatula, and leveled with a corner spatula.

Although plastering wall corners can be challenging, both novice and expert do-it-yourselfers can succeed with the appropriate techniques and step-by-step instructions. This post will guide you through the best methods for creating corners that look polished and smooth, covering everything from the necessary tools to the precise procedures for applying and finishing plaster. You will acquire skills to produce neat, long-lasting edges that improve the overall appearance of your plastered walls, regardless of whether you are working with internal or external corners.

Marking

If you use the appropriate marking, you can plaster corners correctly. You can use simple tools from the past and marking techniques to draw 90-degree angles on the walls. A square, a plumb line, and a stiff rail (or rule) are required.

Measure the angle for verticality (adjacent walls for tilting) using a plumb line or a rule with a level. The lines of the angle are drawn, extending them with the use of a hard rail or a rule, taking into consideration the exposed features of the surface on the square’s ceiling or floor. Next, transfer these lines, along with the figure’s top, to the floor or ceiling so that they form an angle using a plumb line. Along the upper and lower marks, benchmarks are positioned (methods for installing beacons).

Generally speaking, the corners of two adjacent walls are plastered last, or after the leveling plaster has dried on them. In this instance, it is sufficient to plaster one side, place the rule on one plastered surface, and then plaster the remaining portion (after drying). The internal corners do not need to be marked.

A laser level, which creates perpendicular vertical planes, can be used for marking. The apparatus is positioned in the corner with one of the beams’ planes parallel to the longer wall.

Sometimes, when there are non-perpendicular walls, only two corners are left straight to save money, time, and space—for instance, the corner closest to the wall where the bathtub is going to be installed. Creating your own templates is necessary when plastering non-straight corners. If corners are used for plastering, their opening must be adjusted in accordance with the template that has been prepared.

How to plaster wall corners using beacons

Beacons are typically used to level the husks when the nearby walls have a significant curvature. Since the outer beacons are placed 10–15 centimeters from the corner prior to plastering the walls, separate beacon installation is not necessary in this instance. After finishing the walls, internal corners are plastered (using the same technique for the spray, primer, and cover layers).

1. First, apply the solution on one side of the husk.
2. It is leveled by drawing a rule with pressure on the dried plaster of the wall. The excess solution formed in the corner is cut off with a spatula.
3. Let the applied solution set and dry.
4. Only after the solution has been applied, the second side of the husk is also leveled with a rule, leaning on the wall surface. The husks are adjusted with an angled spatula.
5. After the solution has set, remove the beacon profiles, fill with the mixture and level the grooves.
6. Apply a coating or grout the surface.

Plastering internal corners

Plastering is typically done with beacons to level the intersections of irregularly constructed structures. If the husk is formed by walls of different materials, or when a thick layer of plaster is being created, the plaster layer is reinforced with metal corners that are mesh-covered. Corner spatulas are used for plastering, and serpyanka is used to reinforce the corners if the layer of mortar applied is thin.

Using perforated profiles

It makes sense to use counter-shults for plastering husks if the walls are relatively level and leveling is done using a gypsum mixture. Lighthouse profiles that have already been installed and measured at a distance of 0.2-0.25 meters from the corner are installed alongside the perforated corners.

How should one properly apply countoys?

1. For installation in deep, the scrolls are pointily (after 15-25 centimeters) or a continuous line applies a mixture.
2. A corner, in advance cut in length, is put into a LUZG, pressing the rule, alternately leaning on the walls horizontally.
3. Applying the rule along the profile, they verify its verticality in level. If the Luzg, made up of the walls, is a straight line, you can press the corner, leaning on the walls.
4. After grasping the solution, the plaster is applied to the LUZG and leveled by the rule.
5. Когда уложенный раствор схватится, поверхность затирают, доводят до идеальной геометрии шаблоном из металла.

Using a serpyanka

A serpyanka is used for reinforcement when plastering an interior joint made of sheet materials, such as plasterboard sheets.

1. The solution is applied to the husk in a thin layer so as to cover a strip 10 cm from the edge.
2. From the ceiling itself, a serpyanka tape is lowered down onto an outstretched arm, unwinding the roll, making sure that it lies strictly along the husk.
3. With a wooden block, carefully press the tape to the corner, avoiding its displacement and the appearance of folds.
4. The excess plaster mass released on top of the serpyanka is removed with a spatula. With the same, the tape and the surface are leveled.
5. They go lower, do the same operations.
6. The excess tape is cut off along the bottom of the wall.

Lining up the surface and the tape

If a straight wall is next to another straight partition, the same joint is made.

Plastering of external corners

Even out the edges by applying the leveling layer at the corners. You can use the corners for metal or plastic plastering. This technique can be applied to create an unfolded angle (more than 90 degrees) or a right angle. In the latter instance, the required size is obtained by carefully unbending the steel profiles. The whiskers are made without additional corner profiles if the walls are even.

Without using a counter-sharp

Without a profile corner, let’s talk about how to make a straight, even corner for yourself. In these situations, a thick piece of plywood or a board with a smooth edge is used as formwork and as a guide when plastering the walls’ corners. To facilitate its separation from the set mortar, the board is pre-pasted with tape.

The prepared board is positioned and fastened to one of the surfaces to be plastered using self-tapping screws. It is then extended to the necessary height above the other side to be plastered. You can use the board’s edge as a beacon. The board is taken out and the mustache is finished plastering, securing the board to the previously plastered side once the composition has set, ideally after two days.

Using a perforated aluminum profile

For plastering, you will need to buy pre-made corners made of plastic or metal. Using a profile makes it simple to draw the accurate external (expanded or right) angle.

1. Plastering of corners begins with applying the solution with a spatula.
2. The profile is placed on the whisker, pressed to the base.
3. The plaster composition that has leaked through the holes is removed and leveled with a spatula.
4. The correct installation (verticality) of the profile is checked and adjusted with a rule with a level.

Eliminating surplus and leveling the mixture

Using a laser level to confirm

These external corners can be used as beacons after the solution has solidified and with a little grinding to remove lumps. They come with a metal profile.

Tools

Set up instruments and gadgets ahead of time:

• for applying and leveling the composition – spatulas (with blades of different widths);
• for mashing – a grater or a grater;
• for priming – brush, roller;
• for preparing the mixture – a mixer and a container;
• to remove a 90-degree grain or husk – an angle spatula;
• for reinforcement – counter-shoulders or serpyanka;
• for grinding – sandpaper/sanding machine;
• for marking – pencil/marker, square, rule, level, plumb line or laser level, string;
• to protect border parts – masking tape;
• for fixing profiles when aligning with beacons – screws, fasteners, screwdriver;
• for leveling slopes – a small spoon;
• for cleaning the brick base – a brush with steel bristles.

A stepladder or scaffolding, as well as film to safeguard the floor, are also required for the room.

Preparatory work

Any shape base must be prepared before plastered. Among the preparatory tasks are:

• removal of old finishes;
• cleaning the surface from foreign substances – rust, fats, efflorescence, foci of microorganisms;
• pointing of masonry joints;
• notching if the base is concrete;
• dust removal;
• insulating the remaining metal parts, for example, with oil paint;
• repair of cracks or large potholes;
• priming (at least two passes with drying of the primer composition of each layer);
• reinforcement (for wooden bases – stuffing shingles);
• marking, installation of beacons.

These base preparations for plastering guarantee:

• strong adhesion of the plaster finishing layer to the base;
• strengthening of a weak base;
• protection of the mortar from water absorption by the pores of the base material;
• prevention of mutual destruction of incompatible base and plaster materials;
• prevention of stains appearing on the surface of the plastered wall.

Although plastering wall corners may seem difficult, it’s a task you can certainly handle if you take the proper approach. By taking a methodical approach, you can guarantee that your corners will be durable, smooth, and sharp.

Always make sure your surfaces are ready before beginning. This entails clearing the space, using the appropriate primer, and, if necessary, applying corner beads. By taking these precautions, you can guarantee a strong plaster base and avoid problems later on.

Take your time applying the plaster, adding layers one at a time. Take your time drying, and make sure the corners are perfectly round by using the right tools. You can accomplish long-lasting, professional-looking results with patience and attention to detail.

Whether you’re working on a new project or a renovation, learning the technique of plastering corners will significantly improve the way your walls look overall. It’s a skill that adds value to your home and can be a satisfying part of any DIY project.

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