Rule for plaster and features of its application

It is essential to grasp the plaster rule and how to apply it if you want your walls to be smooth and perfect. This indispensable manual will lead you through the fundamental ideas that guarantee a quality plastering job. Understanding these fundamentals can greatly improve the quality of your walls, from selecting the best plaster type to perfecting the application technique.

Plaster application may appear simple, but there are a few subtleties that can affect how it turns out. A flawless finish is the result of several factors, including the wall surface, the type of plaster used, and the application technique. Knowing these principles will help you confidently navigate the plastering process, regardless of your level of experience.

In this tutorial, we’ll go over the fundamental guidelines for plaster application, point out typical blunders to avoid, and offer helpful advice to improve your plastering abilities. You can guarantee that your walls will not only look fantastic but also withstand time with the correct knowledge and methods.

Rule	Feature
Prepare the Surface	Ensure the wall is clean, dry, and free of dust. Any cracks or holes should be repaired before plastering.
Apply a Primer	Use a primer to help the plaster adhere better and reduce the chances of peeling.
Mix Plaster Properly	Follow the manufacturer"s instructions for mixing. The consistency should be smooth and lump-free.
Use Correct Technique	Apply the plaster in even layers, using a trowel to spread it smoothly. Avoid overworking the plaster, as it can affect the finish.
Allow Drying Time	Let each layer dry completely before applying the next. This prevents issues like cracking or uneven surfaces.
Finish the Surface	After the final layer has dried, smooth out the surface with a sponge or float for a clean, professional look.

Types of rules.

Plastering is traditionally done using a 1.5–2 m long, flat wooden lath. The primary drawback is the propensity to distort when exposed to humid conditions. The issue is partially resolved by impregnating wood with drying oil, for example.

A profile made of aluminum that is 8–12 cm wide and 3–5 m long is the standard nowadays. The aluminum rule is lighter, more resilient, and not prone to deformation.

When a long level is required, the rule can be equipped with an integrated water level, which makes the task easier and lets you use the tool for other construction tasks.

Checking the evenness of the wall with a rule.

When the rule is applied to the wall, the gap that results between them and the surface under examination is used to determine the curvature of the wall. A deviation of 1 to 1.5 mm is allowed. The entire wall’s surface is examined.

Wall slope is managed by means of a building level.

To achieve a smooth and long-lasting finish when applying plaster, it is crucial to comprehend the important guidelines and distinctive characteristics. In addition to highlighting the unique qualities of various plaster types, this article will examine the basic principles for plaster application, such as surface preparation, mixing methods, and drying periods. By adhering to these guidelines, you can guarantee a result of expert caliber that improves the look and durability of your walls.

Alignment of the plaster layer with a rule.

In order to align plaster, excess mortar is cut off using a rule that slides along support rails that have already been installed, or beacons.

They are rails that are positioned in an ideal plane and are adjusted based on the level. It is nearly impossible to plaster unevenly if they are there and installed properly.

According to the rule, plastering is the least expensive way to finish walls.

Beacons.

Orientation rails are fastened loosely at corners and in close proximity to sloping areas (windows, doors). The space between them is determined by the pier’s width; it cannot be shorter than the plaster-leveling rule’s length.

Different materials and designs are used in beacons:

1. Wooden. Wood has a significant drawback – instability of geometric shape. Wood quickly deforms. It is poorly applicable in "wet" work.
2. Metal. Galvanized steel beacons are a tin profile. It does not swell under the influence of water. But it has its drawbacks: the profile is somewhat more expensive than wooden slats, it is quite thin (it is easy to bend).

However, using a profile is common when applying the rule’s plastering on beacons.

1. Bricks, tiles. Small pieces of brick, chips of tiles, stones can be used as reference points. They are fixed to the wall in a given plane. Not so convenient and are a way out in a situation when it is not possible to install solid slats.
2. Construction mortar. Small fragments of mortar. They are installed over the entire working surface at a distance convenient for work. True, the work is more complicated, the quality of plastering is lower. Therefore, it is used only in rooms with low requirements (garages, outbuildings).

There are other uses for hammered nails, stretched ropes, etc. These aren’t expert solutions. According to the rule, plastering walls along profile guides is the simplest method.

Setting and fixing beacons.

A thorough examination of the space is done prior to the placement of plaster landmarks. It reveals the accuracy of the walls’ deformation, slope, and corners. The corner plastering is a crucial finishing step.

Particularly obvious is the geometric distortion of the corners of the walls—they have to be straight.

Installation by level.

A plumb line is used to examine the wall and is "weighed." As a result, a "zero" point—a location that will serve as a landmark or standard—is discovered.

The beacons can then be installed uniformly by screwing the screws into the wall.

They are first fastened at the top two corners.

Next, from below, using a vertical level or a plumb line.

A beacon faces the direction of their uncovered heads:

• Wooden are placed next to each other so that their plane exactly matches the platform of the screw head;
• A metal profile is placed directly on the screws.

Along the installation line, the slats create odd "bloopers" because they are mortared in place.

Due to their high degree of flexibility (tin composition), metal profile slats are best supported by 4-6 screws spaced 50 centimeters apart for novice users.

To achieve the most rigid fixation, fill all the spaces beneath the guides with the set solution and "smear" them from the sides.

If more slats need to be strengthened due to the wall’s length, do so after establishing two reference points at the corners.

A rope is fastened to two screws that are driven into the wall in the space between the slat and the corner. It needs to be firmly pressed up against the slat’s surface.

Installing multiple guides is now possible without requiring laborious and precise level operations.

Use the mixture meant to be used for plastering the room as a fixing solution. However, a mixture containing gypsum is also utilized, which expedites the process because gypsum solidifies rapidly.

It is possible to extend the thread above the slats. This is particularly crucial for tin beacons since they can bend easily when pressed into the solution. Thus, the plastering rule applies here as well: the plaster is applied to the beacon and pressed, utilizing the entire length. In this instance, it is preferable to pull the rope at a distance equal to the rule’s width from the slats.

Laser installation.

Using a construction laser simplifies the process: a unique mark is applied to the rule (a regular pencil will do the job just fine; it "sticks" to aluminum perfectly). The laser is positioned to diverge at a distance equal to the width of the indicated rule fragment from the ideal, "zero" point—the plane of the future plaster—as shown in the drawing.

Therefore, the worker presses the guide in an attempt to line up the line it has drawn with the laser plane.

Pulling ropes, weighing, and screwing in a lot of screws are not necessary in this situation.

Applying plaster mortar.

After the fixing solution has dried completely, plastering can start.

Three layers make up plaster typically: cover, primer, and spray. Applying a thin solution (sour cream consistency) is the first layer, or splash. In doing so, the maximum adhesion to the wall surface can be achieved.

The primer is applied as the next (main) layer after the cover coat has nearly dried. Using a trowel or spatula, the solution is thrown onto the wall to accomplish this. The "slaps" should be as dense as possible to guarantee excessive (but not overly so) coverage.

It is preferable to include spans, or wall pieces that are within the separation of two reference points.

According to the rule, plastering the walls in between the beacons starts from the floor.

Once the span has been fully covered, it is leveled by applying the rule horizontally to the wall until its edges rest on the two beacons that demarcate the working area. The direction of the force is upward.

If the plaster has dents and recesses after being smoothed with the rule, the solution is thrown onto them and the rule is "passed" once more. Ideal evenness is attained in this manner.

It’s crucial to remember the following aspects of following the rule:

1. Do not press! The plaster cutting rule should remove excess mortar with the end. You should not press it with a wide plane (although it is more convenient), since it bends, making the wall not quite even. Such a wall looks like alternating vertical panels, clearly visible even under the wallpaper.
2. Wet. At the beginning, when removing excess, you can work with a dry rule. But when finishing the work, in order to achieve the greatest smoothness, it is better to wet the rule.
3. Care. The aluminum tool is quite flexible, it is easy to bend and deform it. In addition, you should not let the cement harden on the surface of the rule, it is better to wash it periodically during the working day.

Using a hard tool to clean dried mixtures will result in numerous scratches on the aluminum. Even more quickly, a rougher surface will get dirty.

After the soil has nearly dried completely, the next layer, or cover, is applied if it is decided not to remove the beacons.

How to remove beacons and whether it is necessary to do so.

Many developers don’t even try to remove them. This has nothing to do with technical viability. Workers only leave reference slats in place for two reasons:

1. Time. Plastering on beacons according to the rule is done quickly, and workers ignore the need to remove them, trying to finish the work even faster.
2. Inability. It is not difficult to remove, it is more difficult to fill in the resulting grooves. Not all amateurs manage to align the wall in such a way that there are no traces left.

Beacons are removed because they rust inside the wall and leave brown spots on its surface, especially cheap, non-galvanized ones.

After the plaster has nearly dried completely, beacons are removed (though the process can be completed in a month, if necessary). To accomplish this, locate the very top of the profile, pry it up with a handy tool, and then break it out by tilting it down with pliers. The task is completed in 20–25 cm chunks. It is not advisable to attempt to "tear out" the entire profile at once, as this will result in far more damage.

Wooden lights must be taken down! The material difference between wood and plaster causes them to "breathe" and respond to environmental factors differently. There will undoubtedly be more movable wood that falls off the plaster, and where they come into contact, a crack will form. This lowers the structure’s thermal properties as well as its visual appeal.

How to seal the recesses from the beacons.

Moisten the surface and allow the water to seep in and drain. To level the solution, toss it into the recess and use a tool (a trowel, float, or half-trowel) or a small plaster rule. Making sure there is no solution on the completed plaster pieces is crucial. If not, the insert will be apparent.

To achieve a smooth and long-lasting finish, it is essential to comprehend the plaster application guidelines. You can make sure that your plaster sticks to surfaces well and produces the desired effects by adhering to these guidelines. For the plaster to adhere to surfaces as well as last as long as possible, proper surface preparation is necessary, including cleaning and priming.

The methods used for mixing and applying should be carefully considered, as they can greatly affect the result. Maintaining uniformity in the plaster’s mixture and application will aid in preventing problems like uneven or cracked surfaces. A professional-quality outcome can also be achieved by knowing when to apply each coat and how to finish the surface.

You can improve the caliber of your plastering projects and get a neat, polished appearance by keeping these pointers in mind. Gaining proficiency with these methods will guarantee your walls’ resilience and durability over time, in addition to improving their appearance.

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