Technology of plasterboard puttying for painting: which putty is better, what and how to seal seams and corners, step-by-step instructions for finishing walls and ceilings with your own hands

Any painting project must aim for a perfect finish on your plasterboard ceiling and walls. Plasterboard offers a smooth surface, but for optimal results, proper puttying is still necessary. In order to create the ideal base for paint, this requires not only selecting the appropriate putty type but also perfecting the art of sealing corners and seams.

The options can be quite confusing when choosing the best putty for plasterboard. Each kind has advantages of its own based on your particular requirements. Knowing your options will enable you to make an informed choice that will guarantee longevity and a polished appearance.

Seams and corners can be difficult to seal, but they can be effectively done with the right tools and a little perseverance. This procedure is essential to maintaining a smooth, even surface and avoiding cracks. We’ll walk you through the processes required to make this portion of the work simple and stress-free.

This post will give you a step-by-step tutorial on how to finish your plasterboard walls and ceilings by hand. Every detail will be covered to help you achieve a smooth, paint-ready surface, from choosing the appropriate tools and supplies to applying the final coat of putty.

Contents
  1. Types of putties
  2. By purpose
  3. Universal
  4. Basic
  5. Finishing
  6. By readiness
  7. By composition
  8. Gypsum
  9. Polymer
  10. Packaging forms
  11. Bag
  12. Plastic bucket
  13. Dense package
  14. Which putty to choose for gypsum board: an overview of popular brands
  15. Knauf Rotbant
  16. Knauf Fügen
  17. Axton
  18. ABS
  19. Bolars
  20. Vetonit
  21. Volma
  22. Starateli
  23. Ceresit
  24. Litox
  25. Unis
  26. Habez
  27. Bergauf
  28. Satentek
  29. Tex
  30. Sheetrock
  31. Pufas
  32. Which putty is better to seal the seams between gypsum boards
  33. Knauf Uniflot for joints
  34. Knauf Fugen
  35. Semin CE-78
  36. JS weber vetonit
  37. Volma Shov – TDST
  38. Materials for reinforcing seams and corners
  39. Reinforced construction fiberglass tape
  40. Mesh for seams (serpyanka)
  41. Perforated paper tape
  42. Metal corners for corners
  43. What tools and materials will be needed for all stages of the work
  44. Prepare the walls
  45. Properly prepare the cut seams: pointing
  46. Cleaning
  47. Primer
  48. The order of work on finishing gypsum board with your own hands: step-by-step instructions
  49. Prepare a mixture for sealing seams, screws and corners
  50. Seal the joints and screws
  51. Form corners (external and internal)
  52. Prepare putty for the main work on the area
  53. First layer
  54. Finishing layer
  55. Sanding
  56. How to putty gypsum board with a roller
  57. What you will need: tools and materials
  58. Preparing the mixture for working with a roller
  59. Alignment
  60. Grinding
  61. How to putty a ceiling: 3 tips
  62. Video on the topic
  63. How to properly seal drywall joints?
  64. Sealing drywall joints in one day, how to work with shrinkage-free putty!
  65. Sealing four types of drywall joints
  66. How to properly seal a GKL, GVL joint (it will not crack anymore)
  67. Putty DRYWALL. Detailed description of work from A to I. Wall putty our version!!!
  68. Puttying gypsum board for painting in different ways
  69. Puttying the ceiling for painting. And the walls can be done this way. Apartment renovation Omsk

Types of putties

Putties are classified into different types based on a number of attributes.

By purpose

Universal

Starter and finishing putties should be changed. Applying it to drywall is simple, and it dries fast without shrinking. As they use fewer technological operations, they expedite the completion process. but are expensive.

Basic

Designed for initial rough wall leveling. Another name for them is starting putties. The components consist of pumice, gypsum, and perlite. applied thickly and dried rapidly, hastening the finishing process.

Simple putties come in a dry state. As instructed by the manufacturer, they are diluted in the necessary volume of clean water. Fiber or sects are used to reinforce the material as needed. This method is particularly pertinent when there are significant wall defects and a shaky foundation.

Finishing

Designed to bring the surface to a finish. They are applied in a thin layer up to 3 mm on starting putty that has already dried. The putty creates a dense, sturdy surface free of chips and cracks after it hardens.

There are two varieties of finishing putties available: dry and ready-to-use. While the second can be used right away after opening the package, the first must be diluted in water, just like starting ones.

Putty of any kind should never be stored for an extended period of time in its completed state. They become dry when exposed to the air. Small amounts of dilution of the dry mixture work best.

By readiness

Putties are offered for sale in ready-made, dry form, as was previously mentioned. One needs to dilute the first one with water, and the ready-made one can be applied directly from the package.

By composition

Built using cement as a foundation. Consequently, they possess attributes like resistance to moisture, insensitivity to temperature fluctuations, and appropriateness for both internal and external wall coating. They work well for covering surfaces in the bathroom, kitchen, and other areas where steam forms and there is a lot of humidity.

The rough structure of cement putties is one of their drawbacks. It is challenging to process and grind the layer after it has dried.

Gypsum

Based on the gypsum foundation. Because they are plastic and white, they help to establish a good microclimate in the space by allowing for appropriate moisture circulation. offered in two versions: the beginning and the end.

Polymer

This elastic putty is contemporary and well-liked. It may be utilized even more frequently than cement and gypsum. It is robust when in use and simple to work with. The types of polymer materials are as follows:

  1. Acrylic. They can be starting, finishing or universal. Contain acrylic in their composition.
  2. Polymer cement. Mainly used for leveling cement-concrete, lime and brick bases. Created on the basis of cement and polymer additives. They have a plastic consistency, can be used as starting ones, for leveling, and finishing ones, for final processing.
  3. Latex. Made on the basis of styrene, which is a certain type of latex on an acrylic base. Perfectly suited for finishing drywall, brick, wood, concrete and other types of walls.

A thin layer is applied with polymer putties. One can even level the surface as a beginner.

Packaging forms

Putties come in the following varieties of packaging:

Bag

Bags contain dry putty that needs to be diluted with water. Frequently packed in 25 kg increments. Easily kept in one place. However, it’s not meant to be stored in moist, poorly ventilated spaces. If not, there will be multiple reductions in the shelf life.

Plastic bucket

Since the putty is applied evenly and carefully in this instance, it is thought to be the most convenient packaging. Tightly sealed building mixture is kept for a long time because it is shielded from harmful outside influences.

Dense package

Purchasing putty in bulk or in a densely packed container is not advised. Accurately estimating material consumption and purchasing the necessary quantity is preferable. It will deteriorate otherwise.

Which putty to choose for gypsum board: an overview of popular brands

The following businesses sell drywall putties on the construction market:

Knauf Rotbant

This dry gypsum putty has additives made of polymers. packed in buckets or heavy paper bags weighing between 20 and 25 kg. Technical details:

  • minimum and maximum layer thickness — 0.2 mm and 5 mm;
  • 1 mm layer strength in bending and compression — 1.3 MPa and 4.2 MPa;
  • average consumption — from 0.9 to 1.1 kg/sq. m.

Rotband putty comes in gray, pink, and white varieties. The following benefits have contributed to the product’s rising popularity:

  • has good adhesive properties;
  • easy to apply to walls;
  • does not crumble;
  • has an affordable price;
  • belongs to environmentally friendly compositions;
  • used by both professionals and beginners.

One of the drawbacks is that it cannot be used in damp rooms.

Knauf Fügen

This traditional gypsum putty ensures success regardless of labor costs. However, this is only feasible if the guidelines are strictly adhered to:

  • compliance with the temperature and humidity conditions – no more than +10 degrees and 70-80%;
  • requires preliminary treatment of the base with a primer, their cleaning and drying;
  • only clean tools are used.

Knauf Fugen is not appropriate for major undertakings. This putty is applied in a thin layer up to 3 mm in order to guarantee even application.

Knauf Fugen comes in three varieties:

  1. Knauf Fugen. Designed for processing the edges of the joints of gypsum plasterboard sheets. Does not crack after drying. Made of gypsum – an environmentally friendly, clean natural material.
  2. GF. Developed specifically for continuous puttying of gypsum plasterboard sheets, sealing joints and Knauf floor elements. Advantages – high strength and elasticity, uniform and high-quality finished surface. The putty contains gypsum and polymer additives.
  3. Hydro. Used for processing joints of gypsum boards and mounting gypsum plasterboards. Does not crack, gives minimal shrinkage, shows maximum resistance to moisture. The composition contains polymer and hydrophobic supplements.

The drawbacks include applying only a thin layer, uncomfortable grinding, and quick drying in the kneading tank.

Axton

Acton putty is made to produce flawlessly smooth surfaces that are ready for painting. It is only meant for internal use and was based on gypsum and calcium carbonate. depicted for basic and finish leveling walls in both dry and finished forms.

  • simple application due to the availability of plasticizers and modifiers in the composition;
  • high adhesive properties;
  • light grinding;
  • resistance to the formation of bubbles and cracks on ready -made bases;
  • quick and uniform drying, which makes it possible to start performing the following works after 12 hours.

The layer thickness ranges from 0.2 to 2 mm, and with a layer thickness of 1 mm, the average consumption is 1 kg/sq. m. Customers complain that the composition lumps up when applied. But grinding is the answer to this.

ABS

This finished gypsum putty is meant to be used as the last touch of decoration on any kind of surface. eliminates unevenness and structural heterogeneity by filling all gaps based on the basis. elastic, offers a flawlessly smooth white surface, and is unaffected by mechanical forces.

After being consumed in the amount of 1 kg/sq. m with a layer thickness of 1 cm, the composition hardens in two hours. There are no negative reviews or drawbacks to the product.

Bolars

This is an expert blend for building and maintenance tasks. On the other hand, the company manufactures a broad variety of compounds for interior work, wet and dry rooms, and basic and final wall and ceiling alignment.

Bolars putty satisfies international ISO 9000 and GOST ISO 9001-2015 requirements. It offers the following benefits:

  • environmental friendliness – contains white cement and imported polymer additives;
  • water resistance, due to which the finished coating acquires durability;
  • long duration of action — remains in working condition for at least three hours;
  • dries quickly — you can start painting in just a day;
  • allows you to adjust the thickness of the application layer — from 1 to 10 mm, it all depends on the quality of the base.

Nevertheless, this putty is used up very quickly: 1.3 dry mix is needed for every square meter, and a 25 kg bag is only sufficient for 18 square meters with a 1 mm layer thickness.

Vetonit

A well-liked, cutting-edge, and eco-friendly putty produced by Weber. The product offers a lot of benefits.

  • it is created on the basis of safe components, therefore it does not emit toxic substances;
  • is suitable for use in damp rooms, since it shows a high level of moisture resistance;
  • provides a perfectly smooth surface due to its special powder composition;
  • intended not only for internal processing, but also for external – as evidenced by the snowflake on the packaging;
  • long shelf life in diluted form – about 24 hours.

The manufacturer makes putty in the following varieties: LR, LR + silk, TT, and KR. However, they’re all appropriate for final touches and priming walls before painting.

Volma

The wear resistance and adhesion of putty are attributed to the addition of chemical and mineral microelements to its natural gypsum base. Among the benefits are:

  • elasticity and plasticity due to the light and airy composition;
  • environmental friendliness and safety;
  • no shrinkage;
  • the presence of thermoregulation properties;
  • convenient use and high quality;
  • obtaining effective alignment and reliable sealing of seams;
  • sufficient layer of material, the maximum is 6 cm.

These days, Volma Aquastandard putty can be used to prepare drywall for painting. Portland cement and reinforced fibers served as the foundation for development. The latter give the final coating durability, strength, and resistance to wear.

Starateli

Starateli finishing putty is the finest option for plasterboard puttying. Its foundation is composed of polymer additives and gypsum. The following characteristics define it:

  • Plasticity – easy to apply and level, does not flow and does not form roughness, fills in irregularities and increases the strength of the finished coating;
  • High adhesion – quickly and reliably adheres to plasterboard;
  • Water resistance – the film is dense and moisture-resistant, without large pores;
  • Environmental friendliness – does not emit harmful substances when heated and burned;
  • Resistance to negative factors – resistant to ultraviolet light and chemicals.

Sanding the putty is simple once it has dried. After roughly a full day of hardening, a decorative layer is applied. consumed at a rate of one kilogram per square meter.

Ceresit

This polymer putty is used to fill in minor flaws in plasterboard walls and finish leveling surfaces. sold as a ready-to-use, dry mix. High adhesion to substrates, plasticity, usability, and environmental friendliness are a few of the primary characteristics.

The producer guarantees that coloring is not necessary for any of its products. Painting and hanging wallpaper are done at the master’s request.

Ceresit putty takes 72 hours to dry. It is not advised to begin further work before the allotted time. If not, the outcomes will just be unsatisfactory.

Litox

The SatenLux MT-60 putty was developed by manufacturer Litox to prepare plasterboard sheets for painting. It is a dry putty mixture made with polymer additives and gypsum as the base. It spreads in a thin layer that is between 0.2 and 3 mm thick and is simple to apply. It is simple to use because the completed form does not dry out for approximately ninety minutes.

The mixture is offered for sale in 25 kg buckets and bags. This is more than sufficient to treat an 18–20 square meter room. Numerous reviews are positive for the products. Negative customer feedback was not found.

Unis

Two types of putty are available: universal "glare" and finish on a plaster basis. They share certain common characteristics, like the ability to create a smooth and level surface, resist shrinkage, and have precisely balanced layers. The layer thickness is 1 mm, and the consumption is 1 kg/sq. m. The solution is feasible in around two hours. A millimeter of the applied layer dries concurrently for roughly six hours.

This is the primary product drawback: high humidity makes them unsuitable for repair work.

Habez

This is a dry gypsum mixture with specific additives and mineral fillers added to the gypsum. Their purpose is to strengthen the bases and make the final layer more stable against crack formation. The putty is easily prepared, applied evenly and conveniently, and it sets and dries quickly.

Khabez putty possesses the following qualities:

  • consumption kg/sq. m with a layer thickness of 1 mm — 1;
  • layer thickness — from 0.2 to 3 mm;
  • pot life — 60 minutes;
  • drying time — 24 hours.

But a lot of customers say this putty dissolves when the primer is applied and lumps up when it’s mixed.

Bergauf

Putty with a universal gypsum base. made with modifying polymer additives, mineral fillers, and a gypsum base. Plasticity, rapid layer application (0.5–15 mm thick), ease of processing, and quick drying (no more than 24 hours) are its distinguishing features.

The putty was found to have the following benefits:

  • easy preparation of the solution;
  • good pot life of about 40 minutes;
  • economical consumption, no more than 900 g per 1 sq. m with a layer thickness of 1 mm;
  • effective, safe composition;
  • convenient packaging.

It is not advised to prepare the mixture when there is a draft or when the outside temperature and humidity are high. If not, the solution’s viability will be diminished multiple times.

The surface demands are a drawback. It needs to be dried and cleaned. The material will adhere to the base poorly even in small contaminated areas.

Satentek

Putty that resembles paste for plasterboard wall finishing. It has strong adhesion and unique components that give the base good resistance to moisture. Microparticles’ unique characteristics result in the creation of an ideal smooth surface. There were no drawbacks discovered.

The final solution is applied at a rate of 1 kg per square meter with a layer thickness of 1 mm, remains active for approximately 60 minutes, and dries in two hours. It is no longer fit for use when it comes into contact with soil and moisture.

Tex

This putty is made of latex and was created using additives, modifiers, filler materials, and pure distilled water. Antiseptic materials that shield the base from mold, moisture, and peeling decorative layer are a special feature. Upon application, the putty creates a robust and flexible layer.

The following characteristics define Tex products:

  • 500 g per 1 sq. m;
  • ready for the next treatment in just 24 hours;
  • does not contain toxic substances;
  • easy to apply and adheres well to the base;
  • does not form lumps;
  • is sold in a variety of colors, so it can replace the decorative coating;
  • does not allow the next layer to dry out and crack.

Long-term storage at below-freezing temperatures is not tolerated by the putty.

Sheetrock

Universal putty that became well-known very fast. includes talc, limestone, dolomite, pyrophyllite, attapulgite, and the ethylene-vinyl acetate polymer. The substance is distinct due to its composition. Large, easily-washable plastic buckets containing putty are available for purchase.

Refers to completed goods with an oily consistency that can be slightly diluted with water. It is easily leveled, exhibits subtle variations in layers, polishes flawlessly, and has an extended lifespan. The price is the only drawback.

Pufas

Gypsum putty can be used to level uneven surfaces and fill in cracks on bases. After application, it adheres well to the surface, shows good resistance to shrinkage and deformation, is economical to use, easy to form a smooth, uniform surface, and environmentally friendly.

The producer provides a variety of these materials. It is crucial to research the technical specifications and intended use of any product before making a purchase. Customers assert that any combination ensures the caliber and robustness of the final coating.

Which putty is better to seal the seams between gypsum boards

Different plasterboard seam mixtures are available from manufacturers. They have different features and differ in technical aspects. The best putty types for caulking joints between gypsum boards are the ones listed below.

Knauf Uniflot for joints

For standard, moisture-resistant gypsum board, use universal putty. Applied in both high- and normal-humidity rooms; however, continuous layering on walls and ceilings is not recommended.

Universality: Because of its light weight, the material can be used for both sheets that are 9.5 thick and 12.5 gypsum boards;

Knauf Fugen

Gypsum putty to create a moisture barrier for interior work. It serves as glue for joints made with reinforcing tape, painter’s corners, and wall leveling.

Semin CE-78

Grout with fine grains for joints that enables work to be done in high humidity. Its quick adherence to the surface shortens the time needed for reinforcement. There is material that is pasty and dry.

JS weber vetonit

Polymer putty for plasterboard walls and ceilings, continuous puttying of joints reinforced with reinforcing tape.

Volma Shov – TDST

This gypsum putty is only intended for use on interior projects involving cracked or loose plasterboard.

Materials for reinforcing seams and corners

The primary cause of early finish coating damage, slow base material deterioration, and deteriorating appearance is improper gap sealing between plasterboard sheets. Thus, the primary step in finishing work involves sealing the joints in order to prepare them for painting, which calls for specific supplies and equipment.

Reinforced construction fiberglass tape

It is a construction bandage that is made of non-woven fabric and is used to seal the joints between sheets of gypsum board. stops the seam from crumbling and developing cracks. used in cases where the putty layer has already developed and been coated.

Mesh for seams (serpyanka)

Sold in different iterations; every model has a unique cell width, length, and size. Such tape occasionally lacks an adhesive foundation and is therefore covered in a plaster layer. It is regarded as a useful and practical choice for corner and joint finishing.

Perforated paper tape

This is a reasonably priced, long-lasting material for gypsum board joint sealing. After cutting perforated paper into the required length of strips, boiling water is added. Putty is applied to all of the gypsum board sheets’ joints simultaneously. The tapes are applied to the intended area, the joints are sanded, and PVA glue is applied. The paper tape for joints and sheets looks whole once the glue has fully set.

Metal corners for corners

An excellent option for tidying corners. The profile is composed of aluminum, PVC, and steel. After adjusting the corner sizes with special scissors, get ready to make the putty mixture. Spread the solution across the surface, align the profile, and make any necessary corrections. Sand the layer that has dried after.

What tools and materials will be needed for all stages of the work

The supplies and equipment listed below are needed to putty drywall in preparation for painting:

  • putty;
  • a set of spatulas;
  • paint roller or brush;
  • serpyanka or any other previously listed material for decorating corners and joints;
  • sandpaper, block or sanding mesh;
  • deep penetration primer, you can choose Ceresit ST 17 – it is universal and colorless, does not turn yellow after drying.

You are free to select any primer manufacturer. What matters most is that its technical properties make it appropriate for drywall and that it doesn’t turn yellow when it dries.

Choosing the appropriate putty and applying it correctly is essential for a smooth, polished finish when priming plasterboard walls and ceilings for painting. This article provides a straightforward, step-by-step method for accomplishing perfect results with your own hands, including how to choose the best putty and seal seams and corners.

Prepare the walls

Properly prepare the cut seams: pointing

Pointing is only required to connect the sheet’s end side to the exposed gypsum portion. When making a 45-degree chamfer, use a sharp knife. Take a step back, about 9 or 12 mm, from the joint and make an angle cut. Use sandpaper to clean the finished surface.

Cleaning

Use a soft brush or a dry, clean rag to wipe off all dust and debris from the drywall before handling the seams. Use a knife to trim any protruding paper burrs, then tighten the screws until they are slightly set into the drywall.

Using a construction vacuum cleaner is the simplest and most practical way to clean drywall. Wash the floor thoroughly after processing to prevent tiny debris from adhering to the surfaces and building mixtures.

Primer

As directed by the manufacturer, prepare the primer solution. Cracks, seams, corners, and areas where screws have become embedded are covered with the mixture. Wait until everything is completely dry. Create another layer if needed.

The order of work on finishing gypsum board with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Prepare a mixture for sealing seams, screws and corners

To ensure that the container is empty once the task is completed, prepare a small amount of putty. Step-by-step instructions printed on the packaging are followed to complete the process.

Seal the joints and screws

Every seam is covered with putty and sealed with serpyanka or reinforcing self-adhesive tape.

The recesses line up with the entire surface area of the drywall sheets when one observes the sealing technology.

Form corners (external and internal)

Metal or plastic corners are used to form external corners. A construction stapler is used to secure the profile after it has been applied to the wall. After that, imperfections are fixed, a layer of putty is applied, leveled with a thin spatula, and allowed to dry. Following that, sandpaper is used to process the dry corner.

Internal corners are formed using a building level. It is done at a thirty-degree angle. After that, glue is applied using reinforced tape. Work with putty is done at the following levels.

They make an effort to stop the perforated elements from moving during the procedure. If not, the painting will be careless and the corners will be uneven in the final product.

Prepare putty for the main work on the area

At this point, there is enough putty mixture prepared. Comply with the advice provided by the manufacturer.

First layer

A thin layer of putty is applied, smoothed out, and allowed to dry. In case the initial putty application proved insufficient, the walls are primed once more and then puttied after a certain amount of time.

Finishing layer

Putty is reapplied once the first layer has fully dried. An eye is kept out for anomalies. Make an effort to guarantee that the primary layer stays inside the previously drawn corners.

Sanding

Roughness, protrusions, and unevenness are eliminated with sandpapering. It is quick and easy to replace the material with a specialized power tool attachment. After completing the task, dust the room and begin painting.

How to putty gypsum board with a roller

A beginner would be better off using a roller because they are easy to use and convenient. Nonetheless, a lot of professionals think that this putty application technique is incorrect. However, you can get the best outcomes if you prepare the appropriate solution and adhere to a few guidelines.

What you will need: tools and materials

Gypsum board sheets require puttying, so you’ll need containers, primer, putty, reinforced elements for decorating corners, and a standard roller with a short pile and pattern.

Preparing the mixture for working with a roller

Using a trowel, prepare the mixture in the same manner as puttying gypsum board. Many suggest thinned the solution slightly so it’s easier to apply. Before you begin working, get everything ready.

Alignment

The first step is to remove any surface imperfections and glue the sheet seams. Primer should be applied after the putty has dried.

Next, dip a roller into the pre-made solution, making sure its pile length is no longer than 3 mm, and roll it across the surface. It feels like a straightforward paint job. Allow to air dry.

The minimum thickness of the putty layer should be 1 mm. If not, the primer and auxiliary materials will still be visible after drying.

Grinding

Here, everything is the same. Sandpaper or a specific tool attachment are used to treat the surface.

How to putty a ceiling: 3 tips

When it comes to using your hands to putty a ceiling, there are various life hacks available:

  1. Fugenfueller will help save time and effort on processing seams. It is a tough and durable putty that is an excellent substitute for adhesive tape.
  2. A regular construction rule will replace a wide spatula and speed up the work process. But it should be constantly soaked in water so that no lumps remain on the surface. It"s simple – the mixture is applied to the rule with a small spatula, and then the ceiling is treated with this tool, trying to move quickly and maintain a layer of 1-2 mm.
  3. To make the ceiling perfect, it is better to use high-quality lighting. Ordinary spotlights will do.

Leave the windows and doors open to allow the layers to dry quickly. According to experts, putty and primer do not deteriorate with ventilation.

Step Description
1. Choosing the Putty Select a high-quality putty, either polymer or gypsum-based. Polymer putty is flexible and crack-resistant, while gypsum putty provides a smooth finish but may crack if applied too thickly.
2. Sealing Seams Apply a layer of putty over the seams. Press a fiberglass mesh tape into the wet putty for reinforcement, then cover with another thin layer of putty. Smooth out to ensure a flat surface.
3. Finishing Corners Use corner beads to reinforce external corners. Apply putty on both sides of the bead, smoothing it out to create a sharp, clean corner. For internal corners, use a corner trowel for even application.
4. Applying the Putty Apply a thin layer of putty to the entire surface of the wall or ceiling. Use a wide putty knife for smooth, even coverage. Allow it to dry completely before sanding.
5. Sanding Once the putty is dry, lightly sand the surface with fine-grit sandpaper to remove any imperfections. Ensure the surface is smooth and even, ready for painting.
6. Priming Apply a primer to seal the putty and prepare the surface for paint. This ensures better paint adhesion and a more durable finish.
7. Final Inspection Inspect the entire surface for any remaining flaws. Touch up with additional putty if necessary, sand again, and then proceed with painting.

Gaining proficiency in plasterboard puttying for painting is an essential ability that can significantly enhance the final appearance of your walls and ceilings. The first step is to choose the appropriate putty, and it’s crucial to pick one that is both easy to work with and appropriate for the particular requirements of your project. For novices, lightweight, pre-made putties are usually the best option; more seasoned do-it-yourselfers may choose the more flexible powdered versions.

Paying close attention to detail is necessary when sealing corners and seams. Assuring that the seams stay undetectable after painting is made easier by using joint tape and high-quality joint compound. Take your time, as hurrying can result in blemishes that will show up when the paint is applied. Although corners can be challenging, you can achieve a crisp, clean finish by using corner beading and smoothing techniques.

Sanding and priming are the last steps in finishing your walls and ceilings, and they are both necessary to produce a smooth surface that is ready for painting. Don’t skip the primer—it improves paint adhesion and creates a consistent look—and sand gently and evenly. You can accomplish results in your home that are comparable to those of a professional with a little planning and steady hands.

Video on the topic

How to properly seal drywall joints?

Sealing drywall joints in one day, how to work with shrinkage-free putty!

Sealing four types of drywall joints

How to properly seal a GKL, GVL joint (it will not crack anymore)

Putty DRYWALL. Detailed description of work from A to I. Wall putty our version!!!

Puttying gypsum board for painting in different ways

Puttying the ceiling for painting. And the walls can be done this way. Apartment renovation Omsk

What type of plaster do you prefer to use in your projects?
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Andrey Ivanov

An experienced builder with more than 15 years of experience. I specialize in plastering and decorative finishing. I started my career as an ordinary worker, gradually accumulating knowledge and skills in various finishing techniques. Now I share my experience to help beginners master the craft and avoid common mistakes.

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