Volma layer detailed instructions for use

For smooth, long-lasting wall finishes, a lot of professionals and homeowners use the well-liked plaster mix called Volma Layer. This plaster provides a dependable way to form the ideal foundation for your walls, regardless of whether you’re building from scratch or remodeling an existing space. It requires little work, is simple to apply, and produces great results on a variety of surfaces.

For the best finish, however, proper use of Volma Layer is essential. The final look and durability of your plastered walls can be greatly influenced by using the right preparation, mixing, and application techniques. We’ll walk you through every step of the procedure in this post so you can use Volma Layer like an expert with confidence and knowledge.

These comprehensive instructions will help you get the most out of Volma Layer whether you’re a professional looking to hone your skills or a do-it-yourself enthusiast. We will go over everything you need to know for a successful plastering project, from surface preparation to the finishing touches.

Work tool

Both traditional and contemporary tools are used to manually put it (which composition is irrelevant at the same time).

Therefore, the following will be needed to prepare the mixture:

• a construction mixer (if you don’t have one, you can use an electric drill with an attachment for mixing);
• trowel;
• spatula (for removing unstirred mixture from the walls of the container).

Use plastic containers that need to be dry and clean in order to dilute the dry mixture. A basin as large as 60 liters will initially be sufficient for a novice plasterer working alone, as the volume depends on the plasterers’ experience and quantity as well as the speed at which the gypsum solution is produced. Additionally, you’ll need a bucket or other water container to clean the mixer attachment after using it.

For preliminary tasks:

• spatulas and other tools for removing old coating;
• roller, brush (for priming);
• spatula for repairing cracks and chips;
• level (for checking the verticality of the wall, installing beacons), preferably a laser one;
• cords and plumb line (if there is no laser level).

Specifically employed in plastering:

• trowel
• rule (h-shaped for leveling, trapezoidal for trimming);
• sponge grater (use a tool to “soak” and polish);
• spatula (wide);
• ironing board.

Trowels and spatulas need to have a stainless steel working component.

Additional tools, such as structural or textured rollers, can be used to smooth the surface.

• pencil (for marking);
• masking tape;
• film (to protect adjacent surfaces, frames and glass);
• roulette;
• garbage bags;
• stepladder or scaffolding;
• carrying to control (using an angular light) surface quality;
• clean rags.

Preparing the walls

This stage’s objective is:

• ensuring strong adhesion of the new coating to the base;
• eliminating sources of stain bleed through in finishing;
• protection of walls (base) from the appearance of biosettlers (mold, fungus);
• protection of the connecting layer from destruction, for example, from the entry and accumulation of water;
• protection of cement-containing substrates from the effects of sulfates released by wet gypsum;
• decrease in the consumption of leveling mixtures;
• strengthening the surface of a weak base;
• protecting the plaster mortar from dehydration (on porous bases).

By carrying out a series of procedures used throughout the room, all of these objectives are met.

When fixing old walls, take off any paint, whitewash, wallpaper, crumbling or peeling plaster, and dust the area.

Next, the tasks for both new and old walls are comparable:

• inspect the walls, identifying defects, flaws, geometric parameters;
• clean the base from grease stains, traces of soot, rust, rot;
• deepen the joints of the brickwork with pointing, make notches on the concrete;
• repair cracks, potholes, large chips;
• remove metal elements (unnecessary nails, hooks), the remaining isolation;
• joints are monolithic with a solution, applying a mesh;
• protrusions are cut off;
• the surface is primed (deep penetration primers are used to close the pores);
• beacons are mounted, reinforced (if necessary);
• after installing the beacons, the surface of the solution of their attachment is additionally primed.

How to dilute volma layer

According to the usage instructions, 18–19 liters of cold tap water should be used to dilute 30 kg of dry powder Volmax layer. The approximate water consumption is shown. As a result, during mixing, the solution’s consistency needs to be adjusted to the appropriate level.

This is caused by a number of things. For instance, a thick consistency is required in order to apply the mass in a thick layer. To start, only a portion of the specified volume is poured into the container—three to four liters are left out for later use in order to achieve the desired consistency (in reserve). In case the gypsum plaster mixture is too thick, a portion of the reserve’s liquid is added.

The manufacturer’s recommended volume is correspondingly lowered and a portion is also set aside when mixing a lower mass. Therefore, use 6-6.3 l for 10 kg of the mixture. A portion of the solution will spill onto the floor if you pour more water into the container than one-third of its total capacity.

It is appropriate to pour powder into water, but liquid should never be poured into a dry mixture. This is a basic rule that is simple to remember.

You have to drink the water cold. All chemical reactions occur at a much faster rate when the water used for mixing is heated. Consequently, the solution’s life is shortened, which is not what is wanted.

Using a mixer set to low speed, combine the powder and water. Using a spatula or trowel, remove and discard any unmixed adhering mixture from the container’s walls toward the center. Once again, stir until all lumps are gone.

The gypsum composition’s ability to solidify into a "stake" when chunks of the previous solution form is a characteristic of the process of closure and hardening. Crystallization centers appear gradually in a fresh solution during the normal course of the process; they do not appear immediately.

However, because lumps of previously mixed gypsum already have these centers, they act as both catalysts and actual centers when they enter a new solution, regardless of the stage at which they do so.

Gypsum powder cannot be added to the solution to thicken it for the same reason. It is preferable to dilute the initially thick mixture when mixing and adjust the density with a water reserve if you are already adjusting the consistency.

After the initial mixing, let the mixture sit for three to four minutes before remixing. The mass can then be applied to the wall after that.

Volma Layer is a plaster material that is suitable for both professionals and do-it-yourselfers. Its easy-to-apply formula makes wall finishing simple. The application and preparation of Volma Layer are made simple and straightforward with the help of this guide, which guarantees a smooth, long-lasting finish that improves the look and longevity of your walls.

How to plaster walls with Volma

Applying Volma Layer plaster by hand is comparable to applying any other gypsum mixture for leveling. In addition, the gypsum mixture is so safe for the environment that it can be formed by hand without worrying about the repercussions. Three application methods are available, depending on the task and base condition: use a spatula (or flat surface) to apply and level a thin layer; follow the rule – if beacons are not present, apply mass where it is not needed to achieve a high-quality finish; and level large flaws in the wall along the beacons.

The air and base temperatures shouldn’t be any higher than +30°C or any lower than +5°C. Humidity: not to exceed 65%.

It is advised to begin plastering the room from the opposite side of windows, doors, and heating units since these are the locations where the compositions will dry longer.

Along beacons

Use guide strips, which are beacons that create an additional vertical plane, to plaster the wall. The locations of beacon profiles (made of mortar, plastic, wood, or metal) range from 1.0 to 1.3 meters. The best mortar beacons from the same solution will be the best because the Volma’s plaster is made of gypsum. The important thing is to prime them after creating the mortar guides so that plastering does not require their removal.

The dough is slapped between two adjacent planks, bottom to top. After filling an area that is roughly one square meter in size, level the solution by moving it along the guides with an h-shaped rule. The tool gathers excess mass, which is then returned to the wall with less mortar using a spatula. After following the rule two or three times, fill in the spaces between the beacons with the solution and move on to filling the paths that the profiles form next to each other.

Using a trapezoidal rule with a tip perpendicular to the wall, trimming is done forty minutes after the mixing process began. Proceed with the rule from bottom to top, following the same direction as the leveling. Burrs may form if the trimming is done in the opposite direction of the smoothing direction.

Use the so-called "lip" test, which involves using the hand, to precisely ascertain when the second trim should be executed. When you touch the surface, the solution leaves a sticky trace on your palm. When the stickiness "goes away" and the surface turns matte, the second trimming phase starts. The dough does not stick to your finger when you press on it; traces still stay on the surface.

Using a spatula, trim the material perpendicular to the wall. Currently, the depressions will need to be filled with the solution that was "collected" from the surface. The spatula does not need to be moved in a smoothing manner while angled against the wall. Just trimming is done at this point; the tool is not being particularly used.

The maximum values for the layer thickness applied in a single pass are given in the instructions for the volma layer. Volma is applied in layers up to 60 mm thick, according to this. Only tiny, vertical surfaces can support such thickness. In order to prevent the dough from collapsing under its own weight, it should also be thick.

The maximum thickness for ceiling slabs is lowered to 10 mm. They take this action for reasons of safety (in the event that the product expires, water leaks from above, etc.). 3 mm is the minimum thickness. Reasonable ranges: 5–30 mm.

Without beacons

Using this plastering technique, the solution fills in all of the tool’s path’s depressions while the rule rests on the surface’s existing bumps. Two applications of the solution are made. Fill the remaining pits and pores with a wide spatula, following the movement of the rule during the first pass, after the first layer has dried.

Grouting and ironing

Wait ten to thirty minutes after trimming, and then grout (also known as "soaking"). The process aims to force the gypsum milk through the pores and use it to putty even the tiniest imperfections. When the laid solution’s surface turns matte, the wall is thoroughly moistened using a sponge float moved in a circular motion. There isn’t much pressure needed for the procedure. Scoop out the gypsum milk from the wall by sweeping a wide spatula across the surface. Putty the remaining pores using the milk, or semi-liquid gypsum mass, that has accumulated on the blade.

If you want a glossy surface ready for painting, you iron (or gloss). Choose the time (no more than three hours from the start of the setting, nor less than twenty-four hours), wet the surface, and then forcefully move the spatula over the wall, pressing tiny bulges.

Drying

After rubbing or smoothing the solution on the wall, let it dry. The wall ought to air dry. As per the instructions, it takes 5-7 days for a 10 mm layer to dry. In actuality, this time may differ. This is dependent upon the room’s temperature, humidity, and thickness of the laid solution.

Step	Instruction
1	Prepare the surface by cleaning and removing any loose material.
2	Mix Volma Layer with water according to the instructions on the packaging.
3	Apply the plaster to the wall using a trowel or plastering tool.
4	Level the surface using a straight edge or a leveler.
5	Allow the plaster to set and dry completely before any further work.

For plastering projects, Volma Layer provides an affordable way to achieve a smooth, long-lasting wall finish. Following the comprehensive instructions will help guarantee the best results whether you’re working on newly constructed areas or remodeling already-existing surfaces.

It’s crucial to take your time performing each task, from leveling the surface to evenly applying the plaster. Long-term, this attention to detail will pay off, providing you with a wall that looks professional and endures.

For those who want to confidently take on plastering tasks, Volma Layer is a great option because of its simple application and dependable performance. Following the instructions will enable you to obtain a superior finish that improves the general appearance and feel of your area.

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