What is dry plaster: types and technology

Because it speeds up drying times and makes plastering easier, dry plaster is a popular option for finishing walls. Dry plaster products are quick to use and easy to cure, unlike traditional wet plaster, which takes time to cure. This makes them a convenient choice for both professional builders and do-it-yourself enthusiasts.

Dry plaster comes in a variety of forms, each with unique advantages. Certain types are applied as a dry mix that you prepare on-site, while others are pre-mixed and come in sheets or panels that are ready to install. Selecting the ideal option for your project will be made easier if you are aware of these options.

The many varieties of dry plaster and the technology underlying them will be discussed in this article. We’ll examine their benefits, applications, and offer some advice on how to get the greatest outcomes. Whether you’re building a new house or remodeling an existing one, having more knowledge about dry plaster will help you make wise choices and produce a polished, seamless finish.

Dry plaster what is it

Plasterboard sheets, which are used to level walls, are the most common name for dry plaster. Conveniently, sheet finishing materials let you finish surfaces quickly and effectively by fastening the sheets to building structures.

A double-sided cardboard lining and a layer-by-layer gypsum core make up drywall. The sheet ends are not adhered to, and the side ribs have a distinct profile, such as a rounded or one-sided chamfer.

The manufacturer keeps the precise makeup of the cardboard a trade secret.

The central components comprise:

  • gypsum;
  • chemical and mineral additives (give the core the desired structure),
  • chemical soap (for foaming the solution to reduce weight);
  • catalyst (accelerates hardening).

The performance characteristics of plasterboard are contingent upon its type.

  • standard (for rooms with humidity less than 70%) wall, ceiling (thinner);
  • fire-resistant (contains fiberglass, preventing destruction at high temperatures), which is used for lining chimneys, fireplaces (the second method of finishing fireplaces is plastering);
  • fire-resistant;
  • moisture-resistant (impregnated with an antifungal agent, the core structure contains silicone granules) – for rooms in which the humidity level rises to 85%;
  • perforated (for acoustic correction);
  • flexible: minimum radius of 30 cm (to give strength, the core is reinforced with fiberglass threads);
  • combined (the core contains polystyrene foam inclusions) for insulation;
  • vinyl – colored gypsum vinyl panels with a vinyl film over cardboard (laminated).

The base color and thickness, along with the strength attributes, vary amongst drywall types. A finishing coat made of laminated gypsum board has unique strips covering its joints.

Dry plaster sheets can be applied to walls in two different ways:

  • by gluing them to the base;
  • mounting them on a frame.

Dry plaster is used for finishing, creating arches or curved structures, and leveling surfaces.

Plasterers typically use ready-made dry mixes (DS) for dry plaster. Because DS only need to be diluted with water, they are very convenient. The components don’t need to be mixed and dosed in a specific order.

The final product is used for decorative finishing, insulation, and leveling. DS is not always useful.

Let’s take a closer look at the two categories mentioned above.

Advantages and disadvantages of sheet dry plaster

Plaster sheets that are dry have a distinct advantage over wet compositions.

  • ease of finishing;
  • low material consumption when leveling surfaces with a large curvature;
  • the finishing process does not require technological interruptions;
  • speed of “plastering”, ease of work for beginners;
  • it is possible to hide various pipes and wiring in the space behind the drywall;
  • when sticking to the wall, they take up less space;
  • light weight.
  • high strength;
  • looks advantageous due to the originality of the texture;
  • possibility of street use;
  • forms a monolithic seamless coating;
  • with a finishing thickness of 20 mm it is cheaper;
  • takes up less space than drywall on a frame;
  • does not require the construction of a frame;
  • used in areas of high humidity, for example, plaster in swimming pools, basements, etc.d.;
  • Can be used with sanitizing, waterproofing, anti-radiation, etc. special purposes;
  • the corners of the SS do not break off.

How to attach dry plaster to a wall

The drywall sheets can be fastened directly to the wall if the walls are reasonably level, do not dip more than 50 mm, and do not have any visible flaws. Adhesives are used for this. It is possible to add more reinforcement with self-tapping screws.

In all other circumstances, plasterboard sheet frame installation will be required. When installing curved surfaces or partitions, the frame installation method is also employed. Plasterboard is installed after the base surface has been prepared, in any case.

Installation with glue

For adhesive (frameless) fastening of dry plaster, there are various methods.

Used when walls are uneven or deviate from the vertical by five to twenty millimeters:

  1. Mark and cut the plasterboard.
  2. Coat the wall and the back of the plasterboard with a penetrating water-based primer, dry.
  3. Lubricate the glued side of the leaf with glue: if the irregularities of the walls up to 10 mm, the glue is applied with a continuous strip around the perimeter and spread one strip horizontally in the middle of the sheet (excess and remove excess with a gear spatula); If the base irregularities are up to 20 mm, the glue is applied with round cakes along the same lines, withstanding a distance of 200-300 mm.
  4. Press the sheet to the wall, align it with the level and hold until the adhesive sets.

Putting a marker on the drywall sheet

Cut gypsum board strips up to 18 cm wide are positioned between the base and the glued sheet if the deviation is less than 50 mm (glue several, gaining the required thickness). Create "frame" lines by attaching the strips to the base and lining them up with the level. Use self-tapping screws to further fasten the strips, sinking the heads into the countersunk to give them more strength. Short trimmings can be tucked into the spaces beneath the strips if needed. Primers are also applied to each strip.

Injection is the third method.

Utilizing polyurethane foam, which has a low expansion coefficient, to fasten to a wooden base. Because of its elastic nature, the foam partially absorbs the "playing" wood’s deformations. The wooden base and the back of the sheets are treated with an antiseptic before installation.

  • each sheet of gypsum board with a small gap (5-10 mm) is attached to the base with self-tapping screws (through spacers);
  • at equal distances (30-40 cm) holes are drilled in the sheet, sufficient for the gun tube to enter;
  • small portions of foam are blown into the holes (in order for the doses to be approximately the same, you can count the seconds while pressing the trigger);
  • let the foam dry (do not touch the foam that has come to the surface until it dries);
  • excess foam is cut off flush, sanded.

Installing sheets on the frame

The aforementioned technique prevents you from leveling walls with deviations greater than 50 mm and from sandwiching sheet insulation between the gypsum board and the wall. Aluminum profile frames are used to solve these issues.

Order of frame installation:

  • a starting profile strip is screwed to the floor along the wall;
  • after marking, attach the second rail to the ceiling so that it lies in the same vertical plane with the first one;
  • mount vertical rails (40 cm step), attaching them to the starting profiles;
  • set U-shaped brackets for fastening to the wall (60 cm along the vertical rails);
  • attach drywall to the mounted frame with self-tapping screws.

Plasterboard sheet installation

Nuances of applying dry plaster

Before being applied to the base, dry plaster in the form of factory mixes is diluted with water and thoroughly mixed using a mixer. After five minutes, let the plaster mixture stand and stir once more.

There are a few guidelines that should be followed when plastering:

  1. Certain conditions must be observed in the room – +5 to +30 o C; up to 65% humidity, no drafts.
  2. Mix as much of the mixture as can be used without interruption. When mixing a large amount of SS, the volume of the package is diluted at one time by pouring the powder into water (not vice versa).
  3. Excess gypsum mixture removed from the wall must not be dumped into the container where the working solution is. Otherwise, it can cause rapid hardening of the entire solution.
  4. De-energize the electrical wiring before plastering.
  5. Each laid layer of mortar must dry before applying the next one.
  6. When tinting, dilute such an amount of mixture that will be enough to plaster the entire wall, since it is impossible to achieve the same color of two different mixes.
  7. During the drying of the plaster coating, do not turn on heaters or dry with a fan.
  8. Water for mixing is taken cold (not warmer than room temperature), clean.
  9. If you need to take a break, then stick a strip of masking tape along the edge of the area, achieving an even edge. After applying the solution, remove the tape. Before continuing plastering, stick tape on the edge of the plastered dried area (break for at least a day) so that the fresh solution does not stick to the previously laid one.
  10. The solution is periodically stirred so that the distribution of the filler is uniform.
  11. The tool (spatula, trowel) is regularly wiped with a damp cloth so that drying lumps do not interfere with the application of the composition.
  12. Cement compositions gain strength for 4 weeks. For several days after application, they must be protected from drying out. If it is hot, the fresh finishing layer is moistened or covered with wet mats.

Utilizing pre-mixed, ready-to-apply compounds, dry plaster is a versatile wall finishing material that streamlines the plastering process. It is available in various varieties, such as cement- and gypsum-based versions, that are appropriate for various settings and uses. Selecting the appropriate product for your project can help you achieve a smooth and long-lasting finish by educating you about the different types and their technologies. To help you choose your wall treatments wisely, this article will examine the various varieties of dry plaster and the technology underlying their use.

Types of dry plaster mixes

In addition to gypsum board, dry plaster is also an industrially manufactured dry plaster mixture. Most of the time, mixtures are unpainted. The purpose, filler size, and binder type of SS compositions vary.

Gypsum

Gypsum-based solutions that quickly set and harden are appealing:

  • low own weight;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • vapor permeability;
  • plasticity;
  • maintainability;
  • good adhesion;
  • shrinkage-free;
  • fire resistance;
  • ease of grinding;
  • ability not to delaminate and not to dehydrate;
  • ease of formation.

Nevertheless, because gypsum is incompatible with water, finishing based on it is not recommended for use outdoors or in spaces with humidity levels above 60%. Since gypsum does not "like" cement, a primer is put in between gypsum and cement plaster layers.

Lime

Lime plaster has all of the benefits of gypsum plus more: it completely withstands mold, fungus, and other microbes. It is robust. It becomes stronger more gradually than compositions made of gypsum. After the plastering is finished, in just a few weeks, you can drive nails into the wall.

Lime plaster can be applied to cement floors, unlike gypsum. As a result, they wear safety gear when working with the lime compositions.

Gash: Since lime is a caustic material, safety gear is worn when working with lime compositions.

Cement

Cement combinations yield the longest-lasting coatings. Due to its waterproof nature and resistance to frost, cement trim can be utilized for street work. There are numerous combinations with various characteristics, including unique ones. The negative is a heavy burden.

Since all of the plasters on the list are minerals, they cannot withstand building shrinkage or vibrational loads. possess a short shelf life (when in dry form) and a sturdy construction.

The process of plaster with dry mixtures

Specifics The articles under the plastering heading provide an implementation description. Here we give a brief, step-by-step guide to plastering walls with beacons.

  1. Prepare the base.
  2. Examine the ceiling or walls, identifying the degree of unevenness. Determine SS consumption and purchase materials.
  3. Make markings, install beacons.
  4. Dilute the spray composition (it is thinner), apply a layer.
  5. After the layer has dried (after 24 hours), dilute the soil mixture.
  6. The solution is applied with a spatula/trowel, filling the surface of the treated area of ​​the wall without gaps.
  7. When the solution is applied, level it using the rule, resting the tool on the beacons. The excess that collects on the rule is thrown into a container with a spatula, or applied to the wall in places where there is a lack of mixture. After leveling the area, apply the solution to the next.
  8. After plastering the wall and setting the mortar, the lighthouse profiles are removed and the grooves are sealed with mortar.
  9. The surface of the wall is rubbed.

Eliminating beacon strips

Type of Dry Plaster Description
Gypsum Plasterboard Commonly used for creating smooth surfaces on walls and ceilings. Easy to cut and install, it provides good thermal and acoustic insulation.
Magnesium Oxide Board Known for its fire resistance and durability. It’s a good choice for areas that require additional safety features and is also resistant to moisture.
Cement Board Used in areas prone to moisture, like bathrooms. It’s very sturdy and helps prevent mold and mildew growth.
Fiberglass Reinforced Panels Highly durable and resistant to impact and moisture. Often used in commercial spaces due to its strength and ease of cleaning.

A practical and effective method for creating smooth, finished walls is dry plaster. Knowing the various kinds and technologies that are out there will help you choose the one that best suits your needs. Plaster with a gypsum base or alternative materials each have their own special advantages that meet different needs and tastes.

A few things to think about when selecting a dry plaster are the way it will be applied, the finish you want, and the state of your walls. You can guarantee a superior outcome that improves the longevity and aesthetics of your walls by doing this. Dry plaster is a valuable option for both new construction and renovations because it is adaptable to many different situations.

All things considered, the technology of dry plaster is still developing and providing better wall finishing options. Making better decisions and getting the most out of your projects will be facilitated by keeping up with the latest developments and being aware of your options.

What type of plaster do you prefer to use in your projects?
Share to friends
Andrey Ivanov

An experienced builder with more than 15 years of experience. I specialize in plastering and decorative finishing. I started my career as an ordinary worker, gradually accumulating knowledge and skills in various finishing techniques. Now I share my experience to help beginners master the craft and avoid common mistakes.

Rate author
Kaskad-M.com
Add a comment