Rubbing plaster is a crucial step in the wall finishing process that leaves surfaces looking polished and smooth. This method is frequently applied to fix flaws and provide a smooth surface for painting or additional embellishment.
Using specialized tools, the existing surface is covered with a thin layer of plaster, which is then carefully smoothed out. By doing this, an even finish devoid of lumps and rough spots is guaranteed.
Plaster rubbing requires precise technique in order to produce satisfactory results. It needs careful attention to detail, steady hands, and the appropriate tools. Anyone can learn how to do this process well with practice, improving the appearance and longevity of their walls.
Regrinding plaster what is it
Unusual for novices, this word simply refers to the renewal of the worn-out coating. In this instance, only the areas that have developed flaws are fixed. Less money, time, materials, and effort are needed for restoration than for a complete repair that involves replacing the entire coating.
Plaster cracks or peeling could be caused by a number of factors:
- layer separation may occur due to water ingress, which destroys adhesion;
- mechanical impact exceeding the strength limits of the solution;
- building shrinkage or displacement of structural parts;
- violation of plastering technology or low quality of the solution.
Plaster defects can develop for a number of reasons.
- blowouts;
- cracks;
- abrasion;
- flaking;
- protrusion of various spots.
Regrinding is different from puttying in that the plaster layer is restored all the way to the bottom. Coordination between the freshly applied material and the previously applied material (the finishing layer’s structure) is a crucial requirement for high-quality work. Ensuring a robust connection between the old and the new is imperative. It is also preferable for the repaired area to blend in with the surrounding area.
Not only interiors may require restoration work. Often, facades require this. Different bases are used for plastering materials. Considering this, in addition to various defect causes, regrinding processes might have unique qualities.
Defect detection
The first step in any repair is figuring out what kind and how much material is needed. Plaster grinding is not an exception. Plastered surfaces are examined, areas in need of regrinding are marked, and the type and quantity of materials needed are then determined based on this assessment of the situation and close calculation of the needs. On building sites, a list of defects is compiled, from which an estimate is generated.
First, remove any paint layers, wallpaper, tile cladding, or whitewash. Defect detection requires more than just visual inspection. To find out if the plaster is creaking, the coating is tapped with a wooden hammer or another instrument. Cracks are widened in order to identify their origin and depth. eliminated layers.
Each type of defect is separated out:
- requiring cleaning to a shallow depth (up to 15 mm);
- areas with deep defects that require removal of the entire finishing layer, and sometimes the top layer of the base;
- chipped corners.
Following inspection, the overall area and volume of regrinding are roughly calculated.
It is essential to ascertain the type of finishing material and the layers in which it is applied during the inspection. Determining the first layer’s strength is particularly crucial.
Preparation for regrinding
Ensuring the formation of a robust bond between the new layer and the base is imperative during the preparatory phase. Consequently, it is essential to clear the base of dust, neutralize and clean fungal and mold colonies, wash off efflorescence, and obstruct water flow. You have to let the cleaned surface dry.
It is imperative to allow the base to "heal" before regrinding. They have been enlarged. Following the removal of dust and debris, a primer is applied to the cracks and brushed on. A plastic mesh is added to reinforce the area in case of large cracks.
If there are cracks on a non-removable plaster coating, they can be made deeper by making a half-centimeter-long cut with a knife. The crack’s edges are gone in this instance. After that, mortar is moistened, swept through the cracks with a brush, and filled. Wide fissures are filled with mortar.
Gypsum and cement plaster are incompatible, so it is not possible to cover small cracks in one with the other.
The spaces between the baseboard and the wall (door frame trims) are cleared of dust, debris, and outdated plaster. Use mortar to seal after wetting with water (ideally with a primer). It is preferable to use masking tape to shield skirting board and trim surfaces.
Rust-stained plaster coating areas are stripped down to their foundation. After this, any metal components discovered on the wall are removed. Oil paint is one of the "insulating" materials. Sand the top of the old mortar until the rust goes away if the rust stain is not too big.
In order to achieve a perfect and uniform appearance on plastered surfaces, plaster rubbing is an essential finishing technique. In order to remove any bumps, imperfections, or rough spots from the plaster, this process entails applying pressure and rubbing it with special tools. Since plaster rubbing is usually done after the plaster has set but is not completely dry, it calls for precise technology and timing. When walls and ceilings are finished and prepared for painting or other decorative finishes, mastering this technique can significantly improve their appearance.
Solution for grinding
It is essential that the materials do not clash and that adhesion is guaranteed in order to completely integrate the new mortar into the structure of the old coating. Cement composition appears to be the best option for repairing cement plaster mortar. This isn’t always the case for interior spaces in real life. The cement mortar actually takes a while to harden and experiences some volume loss during this time. Consequently, it might be required to fix the enforced "patch".
Modified plasters of today are not workable. When they come into contact with the prior material, the plasticizers they contain may exhibit unpredictable effects. You might thus experience a fresh "headache."
Consequently, gypsum solutions are known to work best for interior restoration because they harden quickly, adhere well, and do not lose volume. Applying it to a cement plaster coating is not advised, though. To act as a buffer, an initial primer is required.
Plaster made of gypsum has many benefits. It is safe for the environment and lets the underlying bases "breathe." Its flexibility and placement ease make it a valuable tool for sealing awkward and difficult-to-reach areas. If necessary, sanding is simple.
On the other hand, you can use a solution that is compositionally similar to the old plaster for grinding.
It is preferable to prepare the solution in small batches if you need to grind a large area (you only need a freshly prepared mixture for grinding).
Technique for performing grinding
The plaster is ground once the damaged areas have been fixed. An instrument that is "in your hand" is used for grinding. While some plasterers use a wide spatula and a rule, others apply and rub using a falcon. To achieve the most even layer, grinding is the most important step.
Order of work:
- The wall is pre-moistened or primed. It is recommended to wet areas up to 2 m2. Some craftsmen use a foam roller for wetting.
- The solution is thrown onto the wall, trying to apply it evenly to facilitate its spreading over the area of the grab. This can be done with a wide strip (when leveling with a rule) or with staggered strokes.
- Immediately after application, begin to spread the mixture on the wall surface. This is done with a float in wide circular motions, or with a rule.
- After waiting for the solution to set, perform grouting or smoothing to level out traces of the tool"s passage.
Since re-grinding is not the same as plastering, the following advice is given:
- The quality of the surface is better if you use a float with a felt or felt pad.
- Where the plaster comes into contact with the laid communications, cracks are most likely to appear during operation. In these areas, it is better to leave a small gap, which can be sealed with an elastic acrylic mixture after the composition dries.
- When rubbing, a layer of new solution up to 2 mm thick is applied. To prevent cracks, do not allow drafts during drying, do not use fans or heaters.
| Plaster Rubbing | Technology |
| Plaster rubbing is the process of smoothing and refining the surface of a wall after plaster application. It enhances the finish and ensures an even texture. | The technique involves using a float or trowel to rub the plaster in circular motions while it"s still damp. This action removes any imperfections and helps achieve a uniform, polished look. |
| Purpose | To create a smooth, even surface that"s ready for painting or other finishes. |
Rubbing plaster is an essential step in creating a level, smooth wall surface. It guarantees that the plaster is correctly completed and prepared for painting or other ornamental applications.
Although the procedure is simple, it needs close attention to detail. The plaster must be smoothed and leveled after application. To help remove any imperfections, specialized tools and techniques are used in this process.
Although it takes some time to become proficient at plaster rubbing, the finished look of your walls is substantially enhanced. Knowing this procedure will help you complete your plastering projects more successfully, regardless of whether you’re a professional or a do-it-yourself enthusiast.
