What to do after plastering the walls before finishing

There’s a little more work to be done to make sure your walls are ready for finishing after the plastering is finished. Before painting or decorating, the surface left over from the plastering process needs to be taken care of.

It’s important to first allow the plaster to completely dry. Depending on the type of plaster used and the conditions in the room, this drying time may change. Patience is essential because hurrying this step can cause problems with adhesion and the final finish.

Once the plaster has cured, you must inspect it for flaws. This covers any potential lumps, fissures, or uneven patches. Smoothing the surface with sandpaper is frequently required to provide an impeccable foundation for your final touches.

Finally, if necessary, think about using a primer or sealer. By preparing the plaster for paint or wallpaper, this step increases the finish’s adherence and durability. It’s possible that every wall has different needs, so make sure you adhere to any instructions regarding the kind of plaster and finishing supplies you use.

Step	Description
Drying	Allow the plaster to dry completely. This may take several days depending on the thickness and type of plaster used.
Inspect	Check for any cracks or uneven areas. Fill in any imperfections with additional plaster if needed.
Sanding	Sand the surface smooth to ensure a clean, even finish. This helps the final coating adhere better.
Cleaning	Remove any dust and debris from sanding. A clean surface is essential for the next steps.
Priming	Apply a primer to help the finishing coat adhere properly and provide an even base for painting or wallpapering.
Final Check	Perform a final inspection to ensure everything is smooth and ready for the finishing touches.

Drying conditions for plaster

After plastering the walls, the first step is to let it dry naturally. Depending on the plaster used, some of the water in the mixture is used to create artificial stone (cement, gypsum, or lime). As an environment for reactions, like polymerization, another component is required. It is impossible to stop excess moisture from evaporating from the layer’s surface over time. The standards state that the surface should have a maximum humidity of 8% prior to painting or wallpapering.

When the plaster coating dries, it depends on:

• type of solution;
• consistency of the solution;
• weather;
• base material;
• how thick the layer of plaster is.

Walls are typically leveled using cement-based solutions, which are popularly followed by gypsum and lime solutions. The experience of building has revealed a drying pattern. Therefore, a 1 mm layer of plaster coating outdoors takes a day to dry, while a 2 mm layer indoors dries in the same amount of time, regardless of composition (apart from gypsum).

It takes cement coatings at least four weeks to become stronger. Drying takes less time because the majority of the free water evaporates sooner. Indoor drying solutions on cement and lime, along with those with a cement binder, typically take 6-7 days to dry; however, only the surface layer dries in this amount of time. The room is not ventilated during this period because higher humidity improves the conditions for cement coatings to harden.

Drying solutions on lime or on lime and gypsum are given less time. Ten to fifteen days are needed for these compositions to normally increase strength, and during the first few days in particular, the room needs to be ventilated two to three times an hour. A layer of 15-20 mm gypsum plaster will dry in 7 days at +20 degrees and 60% humidity, according to KNAUF recommendations; a layer of 5 cm will take 14–16 days. It might be sufficient to putty in ten days.

These are the cutoff dates for drying indoors, where conditions are controlled and created. This cannot be done in the street. Consequently, consider the typical weather in your area when selecting the plastering time for facades. It is best to work during dry spells, which are defined as periods of little to no precipitation and highs of no more than +30 degrees. Ideally, it should be between 18 and 20 °C.

Preparation of plastered walls for putty

The surface needs to be somewhat smooth before painting, which is challenging to achieve with traditional plaster. As a result, after the plaster dries, the walls place it. However, the putty is not put to the plaster right away. The surface is primed first. Why do they do what they do?

• Apply the putty on the surface treated with a primer and distributing evenly much easier;
• when the primer hardens, a film forms on the surface, preventing various stains from appearing on the surface;
• various components of the primer, increase anti-mold, moisture-proof and other. properties of the finish;
• the primer partially smoothes the surface and reduces the consumption of putty.

The walls are cleaned to remove dust before application.

What to do after plastering the walls

According to what we learned, the following will happen primarily after the leveling plaster is applied:

• removing beacons;
• drying the coating;
• dust removal;
• priming the surface;
• puttying.

Beacons

Beacons frequently stay in the coating after plastering. It is possible to leave beacon strips in the plaster since they are not prone to corrosion. The plaster coating and the beacons’ materials have different coefficients of thermal expansion, though. Cracks may start to show as a result. Therefore, it is preferable to remove the beacons and use mortar, either gypsum for dry rooms or cement for damp rooms and facades, to seal the resulting grooves.

Leveling and priming

It is necessary to remove any drips and frozen splashes of mortar, along with any other protruding irregularities, from the walls following plastering work. Prior to beginning work, a rule is used to verify that the surface is even. Plastoon flaws must all be fixed before puttying.

This is accomplished by priming and then covering flaws (dents, shrinkage cracks, etc.) with starting putty. The cracks are widened to guarantee that the solution gets deeper. Following expansion, a primer and a layer of putty (or, in the case of larger cracks, a reinforcing mesh) are applied to the surface of the dents and cracks.

The wall is sanded using sanding paper or mesh, or a grinder fitted with the proper disc, once it has dried and leveled. The walls are covered in dust after sanding, which can be cleaned with a damp cloth or a vacuum cleaner. The primary primer is applied a day later.

The primer composition is applied in two passes, with each layer drying for 24 hours, to ensure a high overall quality finish. The kind of primer composition chosen depends on the kind of plaster and the application location (indoor or outdoor).

Use brushes or a roller for application. In the first pass, the primer is applied vertically, and in the second, horizontally.

Choosing a putty for walls after plastering

The putty is a pasty mass by consistency. Its goal is to level the walls following plastering in preparation for the final finishing, which calls for an exceptionally smooth surface.

Putty compounds can be categorized by their structure into:

1. Starters, characterized by greater granularity, for the primary treatment of plaster coatings. Filler – quartz sand. Used for sealing cracks, holes and large depressions.
2. Finishing, characterized by fine grinding of the filler, greater plasticity and ease of installation. Used over the starting putty in a layer of 0.5-2 mm to create almost glossy surfaces. Easy to sand.
3. Universal are used as a finishing and starting putty, applied in one layer. By cost – more expensive than other putties.

Only a thin layer of acrylic putty is applied; leveling is not permitted. They are also not used in rooms where coatings are meant to breathe, and their application temperature range is restricted to no less than +10 °C.

• on polymer binders;
• gypsum;
• with cement.

Cement putty

Similar to cement plaster, it’s mostly used for facade and interior surface finishing. The strength of the developed coating, its accessibility to the general public, and other benefits have earned it recognition. It works well in moist areas and cold buildings. Potholes and cracks can be "healed" and surfaces leveled with putty.

Putty compositions with cement are separated by manufacturers into:

• facade;
• used for interior;
• heat-insulating (used for heat-insulating coatings in combination with other means).

Various kinds of cement are used as binders. As an illustration, there are pricey white cement putties. The composition also consists of mineral fillers and polymer additives. The coatings are long-lasting and smooth. Pastes for finishing and starter are made with their intended uses in mind.

Walls with discrepancies up to 20 mm can be leveled in a single layer using starter putty that contains quartz sand. A smooth surface is produced by the finer sand in the finishing mixture. There are two varieties available: dry mixes and ready-made (in buckets).

Gypsum putty

Not even superior finishing cement paste can achieve the same level of smoothness as gypsum putty. The composition also includes modifiers and additives (polymer and mineral) in addition to gypsum.

The function of the gypsum composition is determined by the fraction of filler, such as sand or marble flour:

• Finish (used for smoothing), a perfectly smooth wall after puttying has a snow-white color;
• starting (can be used to level a surface with small irregularities and without plastering);
• universal.

The material used in dry rooms is lightweight, easy to install and sand, forms a breathable coating, and does not develop shrinkage cracks. Instability with water is a major drawback. Both dry and ready-made mixtures are available.

Polymer putty

These consist of acrylic, polycement, and latex compositions. The "classics" of gypsum and cement differ greatly from one another. Since they create elastic coatings, they are in demand in areas close to railroads and in seismically hazardous regions. These putties don’t mind if their buildings shrink.

All polymer compositions have a high inherent adhesiveness. They create long-lasting, breathable finishes. The extended service life of polymer compositions—up to 12 hours—attracts novices. The primary drawback is the cost.

Polymer cement, also known as polycement, is a new product in the line of polymer compositions. This is a universal finish that can be used to level curved surfaces in a single pass, with a layer as thin as 30 cm.

Putty for "wet" rooms

You will soon require repairs if you use ordinary putty in "wet" rooms that are frightened of water. Consequently, materials that can withstand moisture are used to putty bathrooms and other damp spaces. These compounds are designed specifically to withstand harsh environments, like standing water or condensation.

Putty resistant to moisture will keep paint smooth and color-fast, and mold won’t grow under ceramic tiles. These substances cost a lot of money. However, they soon pay for themselves. mixtures based on cement, polymers, and oil adhesives are among the compounds. Putties that are resistant to moisture get stronger in a day.

Two categories exist:

• hydrophobic (water-repellent);
• waterproofing (not allowing moisture to pass through due to density).

There are always two layers applied to the first.

Preparing walls for painting or wallpapering

What to do following wall plastering It’s not essential to achieve an ideal surface if you’ve decided to wallpaper the walls as the last touch. Wallpaper sheets are an easy way to cover up tiny cracks and pores. Underneath the wallpaper, apply two layers of a starting putty mixture (vertically and horizontally), followed by two layers of finishing putty (in the same direction). Applying three layers of finishing mixture is necessary for particularly thin wallpaper (two vertical and one intermediate – horizontal).

Painting putty is applied in six layers: the first five are applied underneath the wallpaper, and the sixth layer is a finishing putty composed of acrylic.

The coating that is applied is thicker when held at an acute angle. The thickness of the layer decreases as the angle increases. Use fine sandpaper to sand the starting mixture after the initial layer has dried. The others simply walk over the dry coating and use a spatula to clean the surface instead of sanding.

Use perforated aluminum corners, which are installed after the second layer of starting mixture is applied, to level the corners with putty. Putty is applied along with the corners once they are installed on the finishing solution.

It’s important to properly prepare your walls once you’ve finished plastering them before beginning any finishing work. This entails letting the plaster dry entirely to guarantee a durable, smooth surface. Additionally, you ought to look for any flaws, such as uneven patches or cracks, and fix them as necessary. Lastly, dust and clean the walls to prepare a smooth surface for painting or applying wallpaper. At this point, preparation is key to achieving a perfect finish.

Painting

A 24-hour period after the final putty layer is applied, the walls are examined in indirect lighting and sanded with zero grit sandpaper. Dust is removed from the wall using a hairbrush and vacuum. In the event that acrylic putty is not utilized for the finish, a damp sponge is used to test the surface’s ability to absorb moisture. A primer is required if the surface has become darker and has taken in moisture.

The paint manufacturer’s recommendations are followed when choosing the primer composition. Paint and prime should be applied in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

Wallpapering

Usually, beginning the wall putty after the walls have been plastered is adequate beneath the wallpaper. A piece of wallpaper can be glued to the surface to see if any yellowish spots appear. After making sure everything is in order, the wall is sanded, the dust is removed, a layer of wallpaper glue is applied, and it is allowed to dry before applying another layer. The wallpaper is then adhered using the standard method.

However, applying the finishing putty is preferable. Applying a white primer to the putty yields good results.

It’s crucial to make sure everything is ready before applying the finishing touches after plastering your walls. First, let the plaster dry fully; this could take a few days, depending on the thickness and circumstances of the space. This is an essential step to prevent future mold growth and peeling.

Next, look for any flaws or fractures in the plastered surface. If any, smooth it out by giving the area a quick sanding. Apply a suitable filler to deeper cracks or holes, and after it dries, sand it down. You’ll have a smooth, clean surface for painting or applying wallpaper as a result.

Lastly, give the walls a thorough cleaning to get rid of any sanding residue or dust. It only needs to be gently wiped with a damp cloth. You can start applying your chosen finish, such as painting, wallpapering, or another decorative treatment, once the walls are clean and dry. When done correctly, the outcome will be seamless and look professional for many years to come.

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