What to plaster arbolite with – technology

Arbolite, sometimes referred to as wood concrete, is a special kind of building material that combines the insulating qualities of wood with the strength of concrete. Even though it’s environmentally friendly and long-lasting, plastering it needs special attention to ensure a lasting finish.

The arbolite must be properly plastered and chosen to prevent moisture damage. This will also improve the plaster’s appearance. Different techniques are used in this process than when plastering more traditional materials like brick or concrete blocks.

The best techniques for plastering arbolite will be covered in this article, including material selection and application techniques. These pointers will assist both professionals and do-it-yourselfers in getting a smooth, long-lasting finish on your arbolite surfaces.

What to plaster arbolite with

It’s helpful to know more about the material itself to determine whether it can be plastered and how the plaster coating and arbolite are adjacent to one another. This is lightweight concrete in the form of blocks; wood chip waste, or organic matter, serves as the filler and cement serves as the base (binder).

Blocks are produced under factory production settings. It is thought that arbolite walls do not shrink because they likewise contract there. Shrinkage is actually very small, though this is not totally accurate.

When submerged in liquid, arbolite blocks easily absorb water; however, because they are absorbing moisture from the air, they do not retain it internally. Moisture exposure needs to be prevented for walls because water intrusion damages composite materials.

Blocks breathe well—up to 35% vapor permeability—so breathing shouldn’t be impeded by the protective coating. Conversely, it is required that the vapor permeability of every layer that is above another layer be greater than that of the layer that is below it.

The selection of materials for defending arbolite walls is drastically limited by this requirement. Thus, rough plastering is essentially what protects walls from damage.

The rough layer can be used alone or in combination to provide acid resistance, waterproofing, noise reduction, and thermal insulation. By incorporating unique elements into the compositions, this is accomplished.

For instance, filler such as crushed expanded clay, perlite, or vermiculite granules are used in a plaster mixture that preserves heat. Slag, foam glass, and foam chips drastically reduce the coating’s vapor permeability, making them unsuitable for use as insulation.

The walls require not only protective rough plastering but also aesthetic enhancement. That is, it is necessary to finish. By using ornamental plaster or cladding with other finishing materials, like clapboard, they enhance the appearance.

Plastering with arbolite can be:

• single-layer (rough);
• two-layer (rough + finish).

Arbolite possesses the previously listed qualities in addition to a plasterable surface roughness. Because arbolite walls do not need to be specially prepared for plastering in order to increase adhesion, plasterers are free to do as they please. Nonetheless, the very composition of arbolite increases the amount of plaster used for the initial layer.

Moving on, let’s discuss the plaster that is applied to arbolite while keeping in mind its properties. Since higher solution consumption raises costs, compositions containing binders like these are selected for rough plastering:

• cement (suitable for facades, as well as for damp rooms);
• cement with lime or gypsum additives (additives increase the vapor permeability of the coating);
• lime (used for interior work and leveling facades);
• clay (successfully used for leveling and decoration);
• gypsum (finishing plastering for interior work);
• other types of bases (for decorative finishing of facade surfaces and plastering of walls of premises).

The cheapest method is to prepare plaster compositions by hand using individual components and knowledge of the proportions. Dry mixes are available for purchase. Anti-corrosion and antiseptic ingredients don’t need to be added if the compositions are created on the spot because arbolite handles its "means" well. A ready-made solution is another option.

We take precautions to prevent the plaster compositions from drying out because the blocks can absorb a lot of water from the applied solution.

There are two methods:

• wetting the blocks;
• adding a water-retaining additive to the mixing water.

In the absence of such precautions, the chips extract the liquid from the solution, which is required for chemical reactions to take place. As a result, the solution dries out and cracks without becoming stronger.

Arbolite wall plastering technology step by step

The first step in arbolite plastering is surface preparation.

1. Surfaces are inspected, cleaned, defects are identified and eliminated, the deviation of the wall surface from the vertical is measured.
2. Moisten or primer is applied.
3. If necessary, beacons are set.
4. If the layer is thick, a reinforcing mesh is attached.
5. The leveling solution is mixed (if there are several layers, the solution is prepared separately for each).
6. The plaster composition is applied layer by layer (as when plastering brick walls).
7. Align. Dry.
8. Prime.
9. Putty for thin-layer finishing, for example, wallpaper, paint. Or plaster with decorative compounds.

Every step of the process requires adherence to the relevant technology and work production requirements. You also need to get the tools and equipment ready in addition to the previously mentioned tasks. Choose days with suitable weather (dry with air temperature not lower than +5 nor higher than +30 o C) for plastering the facade. It might be required to construct a rain shelter or shade structure, set up platforms or scaffolding, and supply water.

You should buy the necessary quantity of consumables (plus a reserve):

• beacon profiles;
• reinforcing mesh;
• corners;
• plaster mixes (whose expiration date has not expired) or individual components of the composition.

It is also necessary to follow safety guidelines, particularly when working with lime mortars.

Preparation

This step is comparable to others in terms of time and effort. The quality of the final product of the entire project depends on the preparatory work that goes into it. After the preparation is finished, the wall surfaces need to be clean (free of mold, fungus, or grease stains, as well as any traces of the previous, useless coating). Disconnected the wiring.

Sockets, window and door units—all shielded from plaster masses. Large cracks and joints that are monolithic and fixed. Big protrusions should be removed.

Remove any paint or whitewash that may have been applied to the plastered blocks. Remove the coating’s weakly held areas by tapping the plaster layer. Remove any extraneous hardware, such as hooks and nails. Examine recently installed walls. Degrease the stains if there are any remaining grease residues. Clear the walls of dust.

Levels and basic devices are used to determine the geometry of the walls. Plastering is done without the use of a beacon if the planes are sufficiently even. Plastering is done using beacons if the unevenness is greater than 3 cm and a high level of surface quality is required. Measuring the walls, identifying collapses, and calculating deviation sizes makes it simpler to calculate material consumption. Think about the 15-20% reserve that is required.

Since the plaster can cling to the wall surface with consistency due to the structure of the arbolite, reinforcement in the form of a mesh is typically not necessary. This property of the material is the reason why primer is frequently used sparingly and the surface is just liberally wetted.

In addition to being unnecessary in basement areas, the reinforcing mesh gives the plaster strength. If the finish is thicker than 5 cm, reinforcement should be used.

Installation of beacons (if necessary)

The extreme beacon profiles are first mounted on the wall, about 30 cm from the corners. Beacons are positioned vertically based on the level. They establish the auxiliary plane (horizontally stretched nylon cords are used for this) that the intermediate profiles are set along. For novices, the distance between the beacon strips is one to one and a half meters.

In the interior, beacons are components that are transient. Plastering is followed by their removal. As a result, the beacons’ fastening is also temporary. On the installation line, mortar marks are made beneath the beacon profiles to guarantee their rigidity (or the space between the installed beacon and the arbolite surface is filled in several places with mortar).

Beacons can be left in place if they are used for rough plastering the facade and a windproof structure or sheet material will be used for the second coating.

Rough plastering

The wall is liberally primed (preferred option), saturated with water, or moistened before plastering. Let it soak for a while before starting to apply a mortar layer.

Here, you have two options: either apply a thin layer of mortar by hand (a suggestion from the forum), then apply the main mass with a trowel or spatula right away, or baste the layer right away. Using a rule, the mixture is leveled (either along beacons or without beacons). After trimming off any excess, the mortar is applied to the wall.

Finishing

It is not necessary for the first (protective) layer of arbolite plaster to have a smooth surface. Consequently, grouting is not done when plastering (unlike the plaster of concrete, brick walls). The first layer’s surface is primed, allowed to dry, and then decorative plastering using "breathing" compounds is applied to enhance the surface.

It is puttied if Moroccan or Venetian plaster is to be applied. Puttiing is also done for painting or wallpapering. As long as they are highly vapor permeable, almost all plaster compositions currently in use are appropriate for use as decorative plaster inside spaces. For instance, novices on forums want to know if gypsum plaster can be used for plastering.

Since gypsum and cement are "not in tune," gypsum solutions are not applied directly to arbolite walls. However, gypsum mortar can be used to apply a finishing coat; just make sure to create a "buffer zone" using a primer with the right composition first.

It is not possible to paint or whitewash plaster when using it as an acoustic barrier because doing so significantly lessens the coating’s ability to block out sound.

Other methods of finishing walls from arbolite

With the abundance of contemporary facing materials available, you can face the building with brick, siding, a wet facade, or a ventilated facade following the application of a protective coating. Wood is a common material for elevating. It appears fantastic inside as well.

Arbolite plastering calls for a methodical approach and careful material selection to guarantee longevity and a smooth finish. It is possible to protect and improve the look of arbolite walls by selecting the appropriate mix and applying the proper techniques.

To get the best results, plaster should always be applied in layers after the surface has been properly prepared. It’s crucial to adhere to the suggested ratios and methods whether applying plaster made of gypsum or cement.

You can create a robust, long-lasting finish that will withstand the elements and normal wear and tear by being meticulous and taking your time.

Plastering arbolite requires careful selection of materials and methods that complement its special qualities, such as its porous structure and thermal insulation. A plaster with a cement-lime or gypsum base is the best option if you want both excellent adhesion and breathability. In order to guarantee durability and avoid cracking, proper surface preparation and base coat application are essential.

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