Why do you need to pull out the beacons after plastering the walls – the main reasons

Beacons are necessary to achieve a smooth and even surface when plastering walls. These frequently made of plastic or metal guides aid in ensuring that the plaster is applied properly and remains level. But taking out these beacons is a crucial step that shouldn’t be missed after the plaster has dried.

Leaving beacons in their current locations may result in uneven patches and ugly bumps on the wall. These flaws can detract from the finished appearance of your plastered surface and make achieving a polished finish more difficult. A more consistent and smooth surface is made possible by removing the beacons, and this is essential for any further painting or decorating.

Furthermore, removing the beacons aids in averting possible issues like moisture traps and the formation of mold. If the gaps left by the beacons are not properly sealed, they may become points of entry for water, which could cause damage over time. You can make sure that your walls stay in good shape for many years to come by getting rid of them and filling in the spaces.

Why pull out beacons after plastering walls

It is sufficient to educate yourself on the advantages and disadvantages of removing the beacons before making your own decision about whether to do so after plastering the walls. Now let’s look at what happens to a beacon strip that is left in the wall’s thickness of plaster.

Case 1: The material used to make the beacon reference is the exact same as the plaster. For instance, cement in the cement, and gypsum remaining in the gypsum layer. Here, the temperature shrinkage is the same, and the beacon material "fits" into the coating’s function naturally. There is no need to "remove the beacons" because these beacons do not show up when driving in dowels, for example.

Case 2: To plaster a wall with cement mortar, a beacon made of gypsum was created. This presents a twofold issue. Not only do the materials behave differently when in use, but they also "are at odds" because gypsum plays a part in cement stone’s degradation. These beacons are either removed or taken care of during plastering so that the plaster does not come into direct contact with the beacon material. It is better to choose option one.

Case 3: The plastering was done using metal lighthouse profiles. Moisturized metal galvanized profiles are moistened from the start (even before plastering). Because of this, moisture may seep through the plastered air layer (in raw rooms) or along the walls where waterproofing has been compromised. In these circumstances, even a zinc coating applied by the manufacturer is unable to keep steel out of the water.

• The working rib is abrasion by the rule when aligning the mixture;
• Galing was performed poorly, or insufficient thickness;
• When installing the beacons, the profiles are cut, leaving the ends defenseless.

Rust is the result of iron oxidation and is brought on by water. It manifests as brown spots that show through layers of paint, wallpaper, putty, or plaster. The conclusion is compromised. It will take repairs to get rid of the profiles. Due to the damage to all of the trim that is situated on top of the planks, this repair will be more extensive and costly than the prompt removal of beacons.

Case 4: Metal beacon profiles remain embedded in the wall. In the course of the operation, hammering a dowel into the wall is frequently required; hidden wiring may also need to be installed or removed. In the event that you touch the beacon strip while it is being worked on, the entire beacon will "move," showing cracks along its length, and the drilled holes will either "move" to one side or take on an uneven shape. The plaster might come off in parts. The question of repairs and the necessity of removing items that were decided to go will be faced by the property owners.

Case 5: There are still plastic beacons in the layer of plaster. Plastic does not suffer from moisture. A plastic strip, on the other hand, is an alien inclusion whose physical attributes are distinct from those of its surroundings (plaster). In stable temperature rooms, different coefficients of thermal expansion might not show up right away. However, the different characteristics in the kitchen, bathroom, and unheated rooms will impact the appearance of cracks and clutching the coating. Furthermore, vibrations—which are unavoidable when a building is in operation—will cause fractures and detachment.

Case 6: If wooden blocks used for lighthouse stops are left in place, they will develop internal rot and erode the coating. It’s time to remove them.

The beacons’ useful life ends when plastering is finished. Other than a minor savings that is (temporarily!) obtained when leaving profiles, there is no advantage to leaving them in the wall. In other words, they don’t take out the planks, don’t add plaster to the groove, and don’t cover it.

Such savings may lead to the complete replacement of wallpaper with fully strengthened plaster scores, beacon removal, and groove covering. This quick profit becomes a sizable loss over time. However, promptly deleting profiles is not a very tough task. You will notice that there is a distinction between "winning" and "losing" when we discuss how to take these beacons down after plastering.

How to pull out beacons after plastering – technology

We think about taking metal beacons out of a cement-sand coating. Plasters made of cement accumulate strength over time. Plastering the walls and then removing the beacons right away, without waiting for problems to arise, is easier because the material remains easily cut with a spatula after setting.

To eliminate the beacon profiles, get ready a basic tool:

• a blunt chisel;
• a magnet (you will need it if the location of the strips was not marked with lines on the ceiling and floor);
• pliers;
• sandpaper;
• a chair or stepladder.

When the solution starts to solidify, take your time removing the strips. It takes time for the plaster mass to become sufficiently strong. Furthermore, enough time is needed for the entire layer to "stick" to the wall. If this isn’t done, some of the formation will be removed along with the profile during extraction.

Using a spatula, fresh plaster is cut along the edges of the lighthouse strips, and the set’s weak mortar is removed, leaving the profile clean. Give the wall sections next to the groove a full day to fortify. Next, remove the screws, use a chisel or scraper to pry the bar, and then use pliers to grasp the edge of the profile. Simply pull the metal "tape" away from the wall to remove it.

Taking the lighthouse out of the plaster with pliers

• prime using a brush;
• dry for a day;
• fill with solution;
• level with a wide spatula, resting the tool blade on adjacent sections of the wall.

We would like you to view a video that explains how to seal grooves and remove beacons.

In what cases should you not remove the beacons

In certain instances, removing the beacon profiles following plaster leveling is not necessary. For instance, if the interior’s final finish is tile cladding. Neither moisture from the air nor rust stains will seep through the tiles.

The use of aluminum beacons or a guarantee that the walls will remain dry during operation could be additional justifications for not removing the beacon strips. Here, the beacon locations are indicated by tiny marks made on the wall (so dowels don’t touch them).

Methods for protecting beacons

Occasionally, the beacons are further insulated in an attempt to prevent future rust appearance, independent of the galvanizing layer’s quality. Of course, only the ends and the rib’s working edge are painted; the rest of the profile is simply covered with a waterproofing compound, like oil paint. This isn’t used very often, though. Furthermore, since it is advised to replace the insulating materials, there is still no absolute guarantee even in this scenario. Refreshing the film on a walled-up beacon also won’t work.

After plastering, removing the beacons is a crucial step in getting a smooth, polished wall finish. Although beacons, also known as guides, are used to create even surfaces, there are still gaps that must be filled. If you leave them in place, you might have weakening plaster or uneven patches in those places.

You can make sure that the plaster is the same thickness all the way around the wall by taking out the beacons. This aids in preventing issues later on, like fractures or weak points. Additionally, it makes it possible to smooth and fill in any gaps left behind, giving the surface a more polished and long-lasting appearance.

To put it briefly, the longevity and general quality of your plastered walls depend on the removal of the beacons. It’s a tiny step that has a big impact on how your plastering project turns out in the end.

After plastering the walls, it is imperative to remove the beacons to achieve a polished, seamless finish. If left in place, the beacons—temporary guides for leveling the plaster—may leave unsightly dents or weak spots. Eliminating them guarantees an even surface on the wall and strengthens the plaster’s adhesion to the wall, resulting in a more resilient and aesthetically pleasing finish. This easy step ensures long-lasting quality and keeps future problems like uneven surfaces or cracks at bay while giving your walls a flawless appearance.

Video on the topic

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